Ascents in S + M having Beta

Sharp but fun

I’d had my eye on this route for some time, and finally went for it today. I read the problem flawlessly from the ground; everything that I envisioned and planned actualized into smooth movement.

Fun pumper. The sharp tufa ease off halfway, and the upper route climbs very well.

a lil sharp but perma-draws are in so just give it a go. Fun run.

Short cave climb into a ceiling flip. Fixed gear makes cleaning a breeze!

Fixed draws on the overhang in the cave. Short and steep with good rests

Steeper than it looks from the ground. Pumpy, climbs very well.

Not that close. Did put up the draws for H.

Sharp

Sharp rock

Clipped the fifth draw, shit-terrified! Total panic state when I was squeezing myself into the space behind the big tufa after clipping the fifth draw. I have commitment issue, however, I feel like I can do the move in one go if I am less scared. I could reach the nice jug with my right hand if I have my left hand in the undercling. But I just don’t dare to commit. At least I got to try reaching the jug and know how it felt like.

Tomer was belaying me. Today I was calm and clipped the first 4 draws without being scared. It felt pretty easy to clip those today. When I got to the tuffa and the long pinch where you could clip the fifth draw, I was less scared than last time. But I was still stuck for a while. Tomer suggested me to stand on the tuffa with both feet and lean to the left while holding the punch with my right hand. I did what he said and suddenly I realized that I could touch the fifth draw! So I clipped! Yey it was such an amazing feeling! Last time I was terrified and held on at the same spot for sooooo long. But today I could clip... PROGRESS!

The strange thing was that once I clipped the fifth draw fear started to kick in. I just didn't know where to go from that point on. I'm not sure what I was afraid of... Maybe the fear of unknown. If I go the wrong way, I'd maybe fall, and if I fall, I fail. I don't like failing and I am working on being OK with failing. I did really enjoy the progress with this climb, so I am thankful for the scary moments and the feeling of worthlessness. Because without these, I wouldn't experience the feeling of making the progress

I had my right foot on the other big tuffa to the right and my left foot on the tuffa under the long pinch. I did not know where to go so I decide to take a fall. The fall was fun and nice. The true scary moment was letting go. I've fallen twice on this climb so hopefully I'll be a bit braver next time. I wanna send this route.

Got a bit higher than last attempt. Could almost clip the fifth draw. But I was hanging on for too long. I got too tired so I let go and fell. The fall was fun but still think it’s a scary route. Cried.

Katrin was belaying. This route is super scary. Got to the 4th bolt, frost and didn’t dare to go any higher.

Scary right before clipping the anchor. Really satisfying to send this climb Tomer was belaying me.

Hope you all enjoy! Feel free to change the grade accordingly but with the right beta it ain’t so bad.

it should improve with traffic