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Karambony Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 3

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Predrag Bradarić JositoGG Adam Ondra Vera Ella Douglas

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Karambony 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -22.087239, 46.764039

description

More info about the crag layout can be found here:

http://ailedescimes.com/karambony/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cas Nullard

Abseil notes:

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

A bit more info at CampCatta route diagram (link below) in French.

Recommended equipment:

  • 10 quickdraws
  • 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

  1. 50m (9 bolts)

  2. 40m (6 bolts)

  3. 40m (4 bolts)

  4. 50m (5 bolts)

  5. 40m (4 bolts)

  6. 50m (4 bolts)

  7. 40m (4 bolts)

  8. 40m (4 bolts)

  9. 40m (5 bolts)

  10. 40m (4 bolts)

Route diagram:

Set: Gilles Gautier, François Lenfant & Alain Tiberghien, 1998

6a A0 Sport 430m, 10
2 Sakai

Climbing notes:

75% of the route is overhanging!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route. Must leave pitches 3 -> 7 fixed.

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

Recommended equipment:

  • 5 rurps
  • 15 beaks
  • 20+ knife-blades and 3 or 4 1/2, 5/8 (sawed off 1/2)
  • 30+ copperheads and hooks
  • 3 small cams/aliens
  • 2 medium cams
  • 1 #3, #4 cams
  • nuts
  • 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

Set: Mike Libecki, Jim Haden & Misako Koyanagi, 1999

5c A3+ Aid 450m, 8
3 Fantasia

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route or hike down the Karambony trail.

Read more about abseiling on CampCatta page (link below).

Recommended equipment:

Read more about it on CampCatta page (link below).

Route diagram:

Set: Michel Piola, Benoit Robert, Manlio Motto & Emanuele Pellizzari, 1998

6c A3 Aid 450m, 13
4 Tough Enough

Technical face climbing on exceptional rock.

Set: Daniel Gebel & Ari Steinel, 2005

FFA: Stéphanie Bodet, Sylvain Millet, Laurent Triay & Arnaud Petit, 2008

Set: Laurent Triay, 2008

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2010

8b+ Sport 400m, 10
5 Tough Enough Original

Same line with the original, harder 8th pitch.

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2010

8c Sport 400m, 10
6 Air Madagascar 8b Sport 400m
7 Bijou A3 Aid 190m
8 Rain Botto 7b+ Sport 420m
9 Always the sun 7c+ Sport 400m
10 Namana 7a+ Sport 200m
11 Dadarabe 5c+ Sport 150m
12 Alien 2 6b Sport 500m
13 Alien 1 6b Sport 350m
14 Babakely 5b Sport 150m
15 Ripped my flesh 6b+ Sport 250m
16 Le mur lemur 6b+ Sport 100m
17 So Lonely 6b Sport 250m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5b Babakely Sport 150m
5c A3+ Sakai Aid 450m, 8
5c+ Dadarabe Sport 150m
6a A0 Cas Nullard Sport 430m, 10
6b Alien 1 Sport 350m
Alien 2 Sport 500m
So Lonely Sport 250m
6b+ Le mur lemur Sport 100m
Ripped my flesh Sport 250m
6c A3 Fantasia Aid 450m, 13
7a+ Namana Sport 200m
7b+ Rain Botto Sport 420m
7c+ Always the sun Sport 400m
8b Air Madagascar Sport 400m
8b+ Tough Enough Sport 400m, 10
8c Tough Enough Original Sport 400m, 10
A3 Bijou Aid 190m
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