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El Potrero Chico Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall |
5.9
★ Sheep's Clothing
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.7
★ El Cachorro
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.10a
★★ Wolf of the Deserts
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.10b
★★ Los huevos de loro
About 2 meters left of Wolf of the Desert |
5.10c
★★ Never Cry Wolf
50' up the trail from "El Cacharro". Pitch 2, trend right from the anchor. |
5.10a
★★ The Golden Werewolf
Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers. |
5.7
★ The Anvil
Start 5' right of "The Blacksmith". |
5.9
★★ The Blacksmith
1st pitch has 7 bolts, 2nd pitch has 5 bolts. |
5.10a
★★ Howlin' Wolf
Ruta algo sostenida con movimientos exigentes dignos de un 10a. Grieta que va hacia la izquierda. Crack that goes left. |
5.9
★★ Big Bad Wolf
Just right of "Little Red Riding Hood", both start off a small ledge. Ok climbing, but generously bolted for EPC. |
5.8
★ Little Red Riding Hood
Just left of "Big Bad Wolf", both start off a small ledge. Generously bolted for EPC. |
5.8
★★ Riddles of the Wise
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.9
★★ Zombie Wolf
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.9
★★ Senor Natural
35m of fun and jug-hauling up the long, vertical wall. There may be more climbing above the anchors that are at 35m that is harder than 5.7 |
5.11c
Lobos Trabajando
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.7
★ Palm Sex, Lies and Lots of Tape
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.9
★★ Rosey Palm and the Five Sisters
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.10c
★★ Palm Snake
The main route goes straight up at the first anchor for the second pitch or you can take the easier variation on the 2nd pitch of Palm Snake which has you going left at the first anchor and is called Palms Away and goes at 5.10a. |
5.8
★ Control Machete
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.10a
★★★ Will the Wolf Survive?
Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.
Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground. |
5.8
★★ Beans by Dre
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.11b
★★ Fish and Clips
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.9
★ Whistle and Fish
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
El Potrero Chico |
El Fin De Semana
The 2nd canyon on the left side as you enter the Potrero, it is much shallower than the Los Lobos canyon on its left or Estrellas canyon to its right. |
El Potrero Chico El Fin De Semana |
Fin de Semana Wall
This is the clean slightly-overhanging golden brown wall across from the entrance to the swimming pools. It boasts some of the harder technical routes of Potrero Chico and some easier ones as well as multi pitch routes. It is in the sun from late morning till about 15:00 in December / January. |
El Potrero Chico El Fin De Semana Fin de Semana Wall |
5.10c
★★ Pepe y Lupe
Start by going up lobos canyon and go right to the fin de semana west wall ridge. Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 30m Pitch 2: 6 bolts, 25m Pitch 3: 4 bolts, 12m You can climb down to the anchor at lobos wall and rapel lobos wall. |
5.6 X
Razorblade Ridge
Climb "Pepe y Lupe" then continue up the ridge for 7 more pitches -- lots of easy 4th & 5th class with the occasional head wall. |
5.8
★ Shebashite
It’s the left most route (first route) on the south facing wall. Do not confuse this route with “Pepe y Lupe” which is on the west facing ramp on the Fin De Semana Wall. |
5.9
★★ Same Same But Different
Starts at the blue graffiti and trends right up in the corner. |
5.11a
★★ Boltergeist
Anchor is close to the anchor of Same Same but different |
5.11
Sketch Pad
Access this route by climbing the first pitch of “Pepe y Lupe”/“Same Same but Different”/“Boltergeist”. Climb the wide and obvious ramp/slab all the way to the anchors of “Fin de Semana”/“Zuma Dog”. Just 1 bolt on the ramp. Not a ver popular route. |
5.12d
★★ Fin de Semana
Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete. |
5.10d
Scavenger
Starts with a rusty hanger and trends right on the ledge after the 5th bolt. At the 7th bolt the route crosses Zuma Dog. Keep climbing the ramp after the first anchor for an excellent finish on superb rock and fun moves (6 more Bolts). The second pitch/extension is a little runout. Use an 80m rope for the second pitch. |
5.12a
★★ Zuma Dog
Starts 15ft right of the old bolts on "Scavenger". Shares last 3 bolts with “Fin de Semana”. At 40m, be very careful about lowering. |
5.12b
★★ Prima Donna
Starts on the grey slab and trends up right to an anchor on the grey rock. |
5.12d
★★ Maldito Lunes
Starts just left of the grey tufa, next to Camino del Diablo and Blade Runner. Go up and right after the 5th bolt, pull the small roof up on the grey rock. |
5.13c
★★★ Camino del Diablo
Perma draws most of the route. Climb up to the ledge next to the small grey tufa and follow the crack trending right. There are different variants at the end of this route. 2 bolt anchor. Continue to the second anchor and you will be climbing “Amigo del Diablo”. |
5.10d
Blade Runner
Starts on Camino del Diablo. There are 2 engraved aluminum signs fixed on the wall. Once on the ledge you trend right to the first anchor (which is where it crosses Hombre de Rifle) and continues on on the ridge. P1: 5 bolts P2: 6 bolts P3: 10 bolts P4: 4 bolts Rap down to top of pitch 2 and from there down to the ground. |
5.13d
Amigo del Diablo
Variation: start on "Camino del Diablo" and finish on "Hombre de Rifle". |
5.13a
★★★ Hombre de Rifle
Perma draws entire route, crosses Blade Runner at its first anchor (bolt 5). |
5.13b
Cowboy Connection
Starts on Hombre de Rifle and ends on Sabbath. |
5.13a
Sabbath
Start on Hombre de Rifle, once on the ledge go right and follow the bolt line above Blade Runner. Anchor is high up on grey rock. |
5.11c
★★ Never on Friday
Start on Hombre de Rifle, then follow the obviuos arrete after bolt 4 of Hombre de Rifle to the right. It is the bolt line on the face, the one on the ledge is for Blade Runner. |
5.12d
★★ Cosmic Intelligence
Start together with Mexican Guarantee but branches out right after the second bolt. |
5.13b
★★★ Mexican Guarantee
Same start as Cosmic Intelligence. First anchor same as Never on Friday or alternatively Blade Runner. The routes can be linked with an 80m rope. P1: 10 bolts, 24m P2: 9 bolts, 16m |
5.12-
★★ A muerte en Mexico
Easy climbing on bad rock at the bottom. 80m rope recommended. Its possible with a 70m rope putting a knot and having the belay scramble a little bit. |
El Potrero Chico El Fin De Semana |
Mojo Slab
The dark slab with light streaks to the right of Fin de Semana wall. |
El Potrero Chico El Fin De Semana Mojo Slab |
5.10a
★★ Otis (Campbell)
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.10
Jungle Boogie
Start up "Otis (Campbell)", then continue up and right through the garden, over the ridge then follow the dihedral to the same summit as "Estrellita". |
5.8
★★ Mojo (Nixo)
Starts next to the step up next to the bush. huge run-out from 5th to sixth. If you don't feel up to it you can bail using the anchor on the route to the right. |
5.9
★ Little Ewarwoowar
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.9
★ UFOs, Big Rigs and Burritos
Pitch one has 7 bolts and Pitch 2 has 4 bolts. The route ends just below the Aztec Lounge (pitch 5 of "Estrellita") making this a possible alternate start for that climb. |
5.9
Monte Blanca
Climb the ridge right of "UFOs Big Rigs and Burritos" into the big dihedral and then up to the same peak as "Estrellita". Probably shares upper pitches with "Jungle Boogie". |
El Potrero Chico |
Las Estrellas
The Estrellas canyon is the 2nd deep canyon on the left (east) side of the Potrero as you enter. |
El Potrero Chico Las Estrellas |
Estrellas North Wall
The lower part of the left (north) wall of the Estrellas canyon. |
El Potrero Chico Las Estrellas Estrellas North Wall |
5.11b
★ Los Tres Chiflados
One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b). |
5.10c
★★ La Pantera Rosa
Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo. There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c. |
5.10a
★★ Jesus Amarillo
Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa. |
5.12d
23 Diablos
Needs a 70m rope. Over bolted, it can be easily aid climbed using the bolt ladder at the crux. |
5.11c
★★ 2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver
Needs a 70m rope. |
5.11b
★★ 3 R System
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.11a
★ Rat Bastard
Just left of Estrellita on the grey slab to anchors right. |
5.10b
★★★ Estrellita
This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner. Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level. Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.
Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon. |
5.11b
★★ Pacheco Poder
Starts just left of the small tree when you reach the flatter area hiking up. Passes right of the dead palm tree trunk and goes up to the yellow / grey block on top. |
5.9
★★ Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride
Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral. |
5.10d
★ Marklar
Anchor is just below the tree. |
5.11c
★ Planet Marklar
Starts left of the crack with the tree in it. Good rests but with multiple cruxes. |
5.11b
★★ Marklar Man
Goes up the grey slab with the small white tufa at bolt 2. this one will test your slab climbing skills. |
5.10c
★ Take Me to Your Marklar
Runs through the brown patch 2 bolts before the anchor. |
5.10c/d
★★ Pink Harmonica
Tricky..! Shares anchor with "Lickety Split" to the right |
5.10d
★★ Lickety Split
Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts. |
5.11c
★★★ Send It Pink Pocket Express
Trends right passed the corner at about 2/3 of the height. |
5.11a
★★ Machismo
Starts just at the big block, finishes on yellow rock. |
5.11c
★★★ Landscaping
Just where the trail hits the wall again after a bigger tree. Has a name plate. Short and crimpy. |
5.12a
Ulack
Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with "Landscaping" |
★★ Pakal
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
Xibalba
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12+
★★ Inventando que sueño
A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon. Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23. FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 22
L1: 30m/12- L2: 25m/12b/c L3: 20m/12- L4: 35m/10d L5: 30m/12d L6: 35m/12b L7: 20m/11b L8: 25m/12b/c After R8, climb 3 meters of 4th class to get to Estrellita’s summit. |
5.12a
★★★ Curse of the Furry Beast
Follows the yellowish crack and flakes up through the small roof. A side pull feast in similar style as Fear of Flying. |
5.12a
★★ Channelize your Hatred
Starts just right of ”Curse of the Furry Beast” and passes right of the roof. |
5.11b
★ Tobillos Rotos
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12a
★★ Thunderkiss
First pitch 11 bolts to rap anchor. |
5.12b
Cumpleanos
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12a
Fully Engaged
Shares anchor with "Kung Pao Pupert". |
5.10d
★★ Kung Pao Pupert
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.11d
Good Kung Fu
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
El Potrero Chico Las Estrellas |
Club Mex Wall
This is the upper (up-canyon) section of the south wall of the Estrellas canyon. |
El Potrero Chico Las Estrellas Club Mex Wall |
5.11
Shattered Trust
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12a
★★★ The Devil's Tongue
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.13a
100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall
70m rope. |
5.12a
★★ Telegram For Mongo
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12c
★★★ Blazing Saddles
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |
5.12a
★★★ Fear of Flyin'
A Potrero Chico classic! |
5.12a
★★★ Salty Dog
Very nice route, the name of the route is written on the rock in blue ink in a yellow box, hard to find. |
5.12b
★★★ Conflict
Follows the brown tufa to anchors below the ledge. |
5.12c
★★★ Club Mex
It’s the right most rout on Club Mex wall. The start of the route is a little bit hidden by vegetation. Climb the black rock slab on balancy moves into the vertical orange rock up above. |
5.12c
★★ The Worm
Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog". |
Tales from the Dark Side
Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog". |
The Golden Gizmo
Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog". |
5.13c
★★ Battle Royale
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in. |