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San Luis Potosí |
Guadalcázar
Guadalcázar is a small town located in the Sierra Madre Oriental and is mainly a farming town. The town sits in a small valley at the base of rolling hills and small mountains that surround the area. |
Guadalcázar |
San Cayetano
Es una de las cuevas mas grandes de México con calidad de roca impresionante y tiene una gran concentracion de rutas clásicas. The cave of San Cayetano is a premier sport climbing destination for climbers seeking a massive limestone cave filled with hanging stalactites and tufas. The climbing varies from vertical to dead horizontal ceiling climbing and has routes in all difficulty ranges. The climbing here is world class and is a very unique style of climbing to only a few climbing areas in the world. |
Guadalcázar San Cayetano |
The routes here are listed left to right around the cave. When you climb down the stairs into the ca
The routes here are listed left to right around the cave. When you climb down the stairs into the cave, the first routes listed are down and to your left. These are the first routes starting on the flat space as you follow the wall. |
5.12a
★ Tu Tan Tin Tan
Stalactite climbing leads to perfect crimps up a steep face. Climbs the left edge of the cave. |
5.12b
★★ Calico
Sustained climbing up a steep face on pinches and edges. |
5.12d
★★ Cumbia Vikinga
Sustained climbing up a steep face on pinches and edges. Classic! |
5.12c
★★ Guajolote Real
Starts with a hard boulder problem to a stalactite party. Ends on the biggest stalactite on the wall. |
La Fea
A hard start leads to fun stalactite climbing to a delicate finish. Climbs through the largest stalactite on the wall. |
Instrument Wall
These routes are on the way down on your left on the nice and shiny white wall with plenty of big tufas. |
5.11c
★★★ La Viola
A beautiful endurance route that starts on massive stalactite formations and ends on technical tufas to the base of the large roof. |
5.12a
★★★ El Violonchelo
Starts on La Viola but continues straight / right. A beautiful endurance route that starts on massive stalactite formations and ends on a massive tufa to a technical face. |
5.12b
★★★ El Contrabajo
Endurance climbing on large stalactites and a marked crux lead to crimps and sidepulls through the upper wall. Starts on the small ledge with a bolt for the belayer. Climbs up the dihedral and the through huge white tufas. Anchors are high up in the roof. |
5.12c
★★★ La Guacharaca
A technical start leads to fun stalactite climbing followed by a section on crimps and sidepulls before the last tufa section to the anchors way up in the roof. |
5.12d
★★★ La Cítara
A technical crux at the bottom leads to endurance climbing through massive stalactites to an anchor just below the roof. A unique route for the cave. Classic! |
Cave Bottom
These routes start at the bottom of the cave at the nice flat area behind the huge stalagmite formation. |
5.12d
★★★ Betamina
One of the longest and steepest routes in the cave. A fun but wet start leads to unbelievable climbing through massive stalactites. |
5.11c
★★★ Dopamina
Endurance stalactite climbing through a steep wall at the bottom of the cave. Use a long quickdraw at the 10th bolt to prevent friction. |
5.11c
★★ Mabruk
Stalactite climbing leads to a thin section through pockets to a finish on large stalactites. |
5.11d
★★ Anunaki
Climbs the natural weakness through the wall following tufas to the bottom of the massive stalactites. |
5.12a
★★ Niviru
Small stalactites lead to the crux near the middle of the route to a finish on several perfect tufa pinches. |
5.12b
★★★ Chun Cha Ka
Large tufas and stalagtites lead to a final crux at the end. |
Cave Bottom Right
These routes are located right of the flat cave bottom - walk up a few steps behind the huge stalagmites to access this section. |
5.12c
★★★ Ataque de Golondrinas
Climb the large stalagtites until they thin out to a straight line of stalagtites with blank sections in between. Pull through the crux and continue through large stalagtites and tufas to the anchors. |
5.13c
★★★ El Chupacabras
The endurance testpiece of the cave. Climb Ataque de Golondrinas to the base of the roof. Climb through the roof using stalatgtites to a technical crux when the stalagtites run out. A steep arete leads to the anchors. |
5.11b
★★★ El Clan de las Tres
A crux boulder problem off the ground leads to three dimensional climbing through massive stalagtites to the anchors. |
La Bruja de Guadalcazar
A V12 boulder problem off the ground leads to 6 bolts of 5.13c climbing to the base of a 10m horizontal ceiling. Confidence building 5.13 climbing for two bolts leads to a V10/11 boulder problem guarding the lip of the cave. Estimated grade is 5.14d/15a. |
5.13c/d
★★★ Espacio Muerto
A soon to be classic. Technical climbing up stalagtites leads to a steep finish. |
5.14a
★★ Enki
Several bolts of tufa climbing leads to a hard boulder problem through the roof. |
5.14a
★★★ Ninkasi
A steep technical route that finishes on a steep roof. |
5.14c
★★★ Gilgamesh
Several bolts of technical climbing on crimps and pinches leads to a brutal boulder problem through the roof. Climbs through the longest and steepest part of the wall. |
5.14a
★★★ El Intento
One of the best routes in the cave. Technical climbing in the beginning leads to a sustained boulder problem through the final roof. |
Open Project
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
New Route
Route not finished yet. |
5.11b
★★ Eminion
Technical climbing on pinches leads to the base of the roof. |
5.11a
★ Lomo de Aligator
Fun pinching up tufas. Starts with the small stalagmite in the "right bottom corner" of the cave. Anchors just below the roof. |
Side Wall
These routes are located on your left as you hike up towards the exit of the cave. |
5.12d
★★★ Espesa bruma / Plato de Segunda Mesa
Climb through the obvious tufas to a difficult boulder problem at the final roof. Classic! |
5.12b
★★ Anagrama
Climb through the steep roof on stalactites and crimps to a hard boulder problem at the end. |
5.12a
★★ Onomatopeya
Huge holds with a boulder problem at the end. First route in the cave. |
Guadalcázar |
Gruta de las Candelas
La Gruta de las Candelas es la mas conocida de las zonas no solo por escaladores sino también por turistas comunes gracias a su fácil acceso. Las Candelas is a limestone cave found on one of the hillsides above Guadalacazar. The routes here are very high quality and offer climbing on stalactites, tufas, and pockets. The cave offers routes ranging from 5.10 to 5.13c and a super short approach, this is one of the best crags in the area. During the weekend this is a popular place for locals to cook and hang out. |
Guadalcázar Gruta de las Candelas |
Main Wall
These routes are on the main wall starting left to right and into the cave. |
5.11a
★★★ Paseo Escolar
Climbing through hidden jugs on a steep wall, a lot harder than it looks. The leftmost route on the wall. This is actually one of the worst routes on this wall, despite its popularity. If it is your first time here and looking for something easy, better try Chukrut, it is a lot friendlier and fun. |
5.11c
★★ Hurracarrana
Climb up to the left edge of the massive hole then traverse the left side on jugs to the top. |
5.11a
★★ Chukrut
A bouldery start leads to large jugs to the top. |
5.11c
★ Tufanfarria
Starts on two large tufas and ends on the same anchors as Choucroute. |
5.11d
★★★ Kathmandu
Follows hidden jugs through massive huecos to the top of the wall. |
5.13a
★★★ Crónicas de una Muerte Anunciada
Newest line on the wall. Climbs relatively easy until a high crux |
5.13a
★★ Activista Digital
Variante de África. Escalas toda la ruta hasta el último bolt antes de la reunión y te desvías a Crónicas, usando el último bolt y reunión de esta ruta. Combinando el crux de África y Crónicas |
5.12c
★★★ África
The first route bolted in the cave and one of the best routes here. |
5.12c
★★★ Oogie Boogie
Climb through a series of pinches and crimps to reach the spectacular tufa. Pinch up the tufa and follow jugs to the anchors. Shares the same anchors with África. Classic! |
5.13a
★★★ Nomak
Start on large holds that changes into long moves on crimps to a good rest with a final boulder problem at the top. |
5.13c
★★ Massai Mara
Starts on the largest stalagmite at the left end of the cave and climbs out the underside of the roof ending at the highest set of anchors in the hole on the other side of the cave. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou, Chinguetti, and Vaacanda. Classic! |
5.13c
Oagadougou
Starts at the deepest part of the cave. Longest route in the cave. Ends in the whole in the ceiling at the highest set of anchors and shares the anchor with Chinguetti and Vaacanda. |
5.13d
★★ Serenghuetti
Empieza en Oagadougou. Starts on Oagadougou and finishes on the anchors of Zion, just above the stairs. |
5.13d
Zion
Starts at the entrance of the other cave and follows big stalactites to a long endurance traverse to the lip of the cave. Ends at the entrance to the cave (anchors above stairs). Classic! |
5.13b/c
★★★ Chinguetti
Climb the large stalactites just right of the tunnel to the other cave to the lip of the cave. Resting on the large stalagmite makes the grade to 12d/13a. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou and Vaacanda. |
Cave Entrance
These routes start from the entrance of the cave where the stairs go down to the platform. They start on the stalagmites left and right of the stairs. |
5.13a
★★★ Vaacanda
Climb through hundreds of hanging stalactites starting on a large stalagmite left of the stairs as you go down. One of the best routes in Las Candelas! Ends in the whole in the ceiling at the lower set of two anchors. Shares the anchor with Shangrila, Rabat, and Sri Lanka. |
5.12a
★★★ Shangrila
Start on top of the stalagmite at the cave entrance, just right of the stairs as you walk in, and climb out numerous hanging stalactites to the anchors (by the skylight). Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Rabat, and Sri Lanka. |
5.12b
Rabat
Start on top of the stalagmites right of the stairs at the cave entrance (second route) and climb through the stalactites to the anchor near the skylight. Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Shangrila, and Sri Lanka. |
5.12c
Sri Lanka
Start on top of the stalagmites right of the stairs at the cave entrance (3rd route) and climb through stalactites to a hard boulder problem right before you reach the final stalactites. Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Shangrila, and Rabat, by the skylight. |
Candle Area
These routes start from the concrete paltform under the "skylight" from left (on the stalagmite) to right. |
5.9
★★ Candelabros
A cool start up a massive stalagmite leads to large stalagtites to the top. |
5.9
★ Eutanacia
A fun steep start leads to juggy stalagtites to the top. First hanger missing. |
5.9
★★ De Osteoporosis a la Eutanacia
Start on 'La del Chaka' and traverses left through dirty rock to the anchors of Eutanacia. |
5.9
★ La del Chaka
Juggy climbing through stalagtites leads to the top. |
5.8
★★ Osteoporosis
Juggy climbing through stalagtites just left of the organ pipes. |
5.10a
★★ Camplanita
Climb the right side of the large column using pinches. Ends right below the cave’s ceiling. Anchors? |
Guadalcázar |
Cuevas del Gato
A small and steep cave, less featured than the other caves in the area. |
Guadalcázar Cuevas del Gato |
5.12b
Unnamed 1
The first route on the left entrance with an anchor just outside on the face. |
Guadalcázar |
Zelda
An impressive double cave (or better sinkhole) separated by an arch. When you arrive you will lower into the first hole with shorter routes, the second hole (reached by walking under the arch) has potential for long, steep and hard routes. |
Guadalcázar Zelda |
Small Cave
These are the routes in the first and smaller "hole" listed from left to right as you look at the rap-in line and the arch is in your back. |
5.9
★★ Exit Route
The short route that is sued to climb out of the cave. Exactly where you rap in. |
5.12a
★★★ Unnamed 1
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
5.12b/c
Unnamed 2
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
5.10
★★ Kokiri
A short route with anchors in the roof. |
5.12c
★ Unnamed 3
Starts at the obvious stalgamite left under the arch. |
Unnamed 4
Starting right under the arch and follwoing the steep arch up. |
Unnamed 5
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
Unnamed 6
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
Unnamed 7
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
5.12d
Unnamed 8
Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times. When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything. |
5.11b
★★ Epona
Left trending line. This line starts just left of the rap-in line. |
Guadalcázar |
Joya del Salitre
This medium sized wall was the first cliff developed in the area and holds a large number of high quality routes. The rock is characterized by pockets, crimps, and tufas. |
Guadalcázar Joya del Salitre |
Main Wall
These are the routes on the obvious main wall listed left to right. |
5.12b
★★ Chilango Chiflado
The longest route on the wall. A boulder problem down low leads to easier climbing to the anchors. |
5.12b
★★ Equilatero
A slick boulder problem on small crimps leads to a spectacular finish on a large tufa. |
5.11c
★★ Segundo Aliento
First pitch starts on a crack and finishes in a big hole. The second pitch climbs up the steep wall and finishes near two bee hives. |
5.10d
★ La del Chaka
Climb Segundo Aliento to the fourth bolt, then head right following a line of bolts to the anchors. |
5.11b
★ Madrugado
An easy slab leads to technical climbing to the anchors. Shares the same anchors as La del Chaka. |
5.12c
★★★ Henkidama
Climb the obvious tufa until it ends at a blank wall. Follow the line of small crimps to the anchors. |
5.12d
★★★ Ayatola
Climb up the largest tufa on the wall until it ends. From here climb through the technical crux on slopers to the anchors. |
5.12c
★★★ Cangrearaña
A crimpy start leads to a small crack. |
5.12d
★★ Lajas
An easy start leads to a nice rest before a three bolt long boulder problem to the anchors. |
5.12a
★ La de Lu
An easy start on crimps and pockets leads to a technical dihedral. |
5.12b
★ Nueva
An easy start leads to small crimps to the anchors. Missing its first bolt. |
5.12b
★★ Mano de Mickey
An easy start leads to a technical boulder problem to amazing climbing to the anchors. Classic! |
Right Side
These routes are located on the South-West facing, shorter wall. These are the first routes you see as you walk in to the crag on your right. |
5.8
★★ Unknown 1
Short pocket route. Great for kids. |