Node |
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Nuevo León
Excellent limestone, multiple styles: slab, pockets, tufas and freestyle (jk), best crags in Mexico, super short approach (maybe you can belay from your car) Regio culture, carne asada and climbing |
La Huasteca
From all the climbing areas in Nuevo Leon "La Huasteca" is the closest one to Monterrey. The rock here is limestone and its color is pale gray to white. Most routs here are slab, with some exceptions. |
La Huasteca |
La Zona Roja del Paco
Rutas variadas muy cerca de la entrada y de los ricos elotes. ADVERTENCIA: PRIMERAS PLAQUETAS FUERON ROBADAS, EXTREMA PRECAUCIONES WARNING: FIRST BOLTS HAVE BEEN STOLEN, PROCEED WITH CAUTION |
La Huasteca La Zona Roja del Paco |
Los Elotes
To the right of the small chappel A la derecha de la capilla pequeña |
La Huasteca La Zona Roja del Paco Los Elotes |
Elotes Norte
on the chappel's right, includes the small blocky face pointing Northwest a la dereca de la capilla, incluye la cara pequeña y con bloques que apunta al noroeste |
La Huasteca La Zona Roja del Paco Los Elotes Elotes Norte |
5.11c
★★ Complementos Medianos
A la izquierda de Pedacito de mi Vida Left of Pedacito de mi Vida |
5.10c
★★ Pedacito de mi Vida
A la derecha de "Complementos Medianos" Diedro antes de reunión Right of "Complementos Medianos" obvious dihedral before chains |
5.10d
★ Quesito Fresco
A la derecha de "Pedacito de mi Vida" sigue el arete del lado derecho Right of "Pedacito de mi Vida" follows right side arete |
5.10b
★★ Diedro de mi Deivid
Sobre la cara angosta que mira al noroeste On the narrow northwestern-oriented face |
5.10a
★★ Tocando el vacio
subir hasta el pequeño puerto donde se encuentra una manguera para transportar agua, subir todo el filo hasta terminar la cresta, bajar en rapel por la ruta mortal kombat |
5.10a
★★★ La maestra Yolanda
Escalada por la grieta offwidth hasta la pequeña cumbre, cuidado con las posibles rocas sueltas. |
5.11 B
★★★ Mortal Kombat
150 metros arriba del cauce del rio , la reunion de la ruta sirve para el descenso de tocando el vacio. regletas muy tecnicas |
La Huasteca La Zona Roja del Paco Los Elotes |
Elotes Sur
Opposite to Elotes Norte |
La Huasteca La Zona Roja del Paco Los Elotes Elotes Sur |
5.10d
★★★ Chilaquiles
Primera ruta de izquierda a derecha First from left to right |
5.9
★★ El Desayuno
Primera plaqueta alta del suelo, la primera parte sigue una grieta profunda con agarres aparentemente grantes a una repisa antes de la primera plaqueta. First bolt high from the ground, fist part is an obvious wide crack with seemingly big holds to a nice step before the first bolt |
La Huasteca |
Pico Licos
Primer pico con forma triangular justo frente a la entrada. first arête just across the river in front of the park´s entrance. |
La Huasteca Pico Licos |
5.6
★★ La Arista Licos
1er largo: 4ta clase 2do largo: 4ta clase 3er largo: 4ta clase 4to largo: 4ta clase con reunion trad 5to largo: 5.6 |
5.8 A1
Sur Licos
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
A1
La Che
Ruta por el centro de la placa del pico licos. climb the center of the dead vertical wall. |
5.10c
El Diedro Licos
acceso por el poniente, hay que subir por unas repisas de 4ta clase par allegar al comienzo de la ruta. vas a encontrar algunos clavos pero la ruta fue plaqueteada por Miguel Guerra en 2013. |
La Huasteca |
Las Rejas
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca Las Rejas |
5.9
★★★ Tragando Camotes
Grieta ancha asemejando la parte media de un hexagono. |
5.10a
La Otra
comparte reunion con Tragando camotes |
5.10b
Tragos de amargo licor
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11a
La Vagina
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.12a
Clitoris
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.13a
Punto G
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10a
Fisura
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca |
Cazuelas
Zona clásica con rutones clásicos, grados sostenidos y de referencia, problemas de equilibrio, especial por sus agarres tipo pocket pero con crimps Classic zone with classic routes, sustained grades. |
La Huasteca Cazuelas |
5.9
★★ Tragando Camotes
Chimney 20 Yards up. Chimenea a 20 Metros del suelo. |
5.10
★★ La Otra
To the right of "Tragando Camotes" |
5.10d
★★ Tragos de amargo licor
Tough start and hard mid section. Really fun. Comienzo duro y segundo crux casi al terminar. |
5.8 - 10a
★ Serpientes y Escaleras
Ultima via hacia la Izq. Armada por Marcelo Gonzalez. cuidado con bloques sueltos a la izquierda de esta via. Ruta al lado izquierdo de Parasiempre. |
5.10a
★★ Para Siempre
Ruta para principiantes, sostenida y divertida. For beginners, fun and sustained |
5.13b
★★★ SR Mandril
Hermosa Via en un 2ndo largo, entras por Serpientes y Escaleras y te sigues por ls placas justo arriba de esta via. |
5.13b
★★ Mara
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.13c
★★★ Veneno
Acceso por "Para Siempre" Access via "Para Siempre" |
5.13b
★★ Samsara
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11b
★★ Semana Baja
Esta ruta es muy clásica y es de las mas escaladas en esta pared. Es muy cortita y es buena para calentar. |
5.12c
★★★ El Diedro de Chuy
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11d
★★★ Macabrona
Por la cara entre el diedro de Chuy y el diedro de lágrimas de mi chorizo. |
5.10c
★★ Lagrimas de mi chorizo
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10b
★★ Cuatro Fantasticos
Previamente la primer plaqueta estaba muy alta en el diedro vertical, debido al inicio sencillo que está a favor. Ahora, si se comienza por la izquierda del árbol, hay dos plaquetas en el tramo a favor, la primera de estas se comparte con "Lagrimas de mi chorizo". (may'22) La reunión ahora tiene tres plaquetas, y es posible ecualizarla. Para desmontar, la plaqueta derecha tiene una cadena larga, la central dos aros de rappel y la izquierda no tiene nada. (may'22) Previously the first bolt was quite high on the vertical dihedral, due to an easy slabby start. Now, if started left of the tree, now there are two bolts on the slab, the first of which is shared with "Lagrimas de mi chorizo". (may'22) The anchor now has three bolts and is possible to equalize. To rappel, the right bolt has a long chain, the center one has two rappel rings and the left one has nothing. (may'22) |
5.9
★★★ Veinte Años Despues
12 bolts + 2 reunión con permanentes (08/22) "Veinte años después" es un diedro. Es buena ruta para principiantes. |
5.11d
★★ Volar Sin Alas
Usar primeras plaquetas de 20 Años Despues. Use fist bolts of 20 Años Despues |
5.12d
Adicto A Matar
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11d
★★★ Negro Apocaliptico
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.13a
★ Black Mamba
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.13a
★★★ Tres Mosqueteros
Muy buena ruta! Esta ruta es un clasico, esta muy hebrada pero los vuelos son limpios. |
5.13a
★★★ El Bandido
Comparte la entrada de "Tres Mosqueteros" y una sección media del "Sueño que de Niño". |
5.13c
Sueño que de Niño
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10d
★★★ Mundito
short route. Ruta corta con inicio cruxoso y sobado. |
5.12d
★★ Mundo Grafico
Esta ruta está directamente a la derecha de la grieta/diedro de Mundo Perfecto y tiene plaquetas oxidadas muy viejas |
5.12c
★★★ Genesis
Movimientos super técnicos y muy divertidos de placa. |
5.12a
★★★ Grandes Diseños
Muy buena vía de equilibrio. Movimientos técnicos de placa. Muy divertida y recomendable! |
5.12b
★★ Apocalipsis
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.12d
★★ Red Suzuki
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11c
★★ Electra
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11b
★★ Aunque Dios No Quiera
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10c
★★ Doña Petra
Tres Plaquetas, entrada pulida. |
5.12d
★★★ Desesperada Tranquilidad
Ruta que se encuentra a la derecha de la pared principal de cazuelas, del lado derecho del techo donde muchas personas realizan prácticas de rapel. Empieza con un bolt bastante alto (sugiero colocar con un clipstick), sube hacia una tufa obvia, pasando por una pared casi plana. Un clásico huastequero. |
La Huasteca |
Parque Uno
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca Parque Uno |
5.11a
★★ Starve el Ego, Alimenta el Alma
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca |
La Lulu
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca La Lulu |
5.9
★ El Buho
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.9
★ El Ojo Del Buho
Angulos caseros y plaquetas, la ruta pasa por varias repisas, termina en la misma repisa donde termina la ruta de la derecha. 12 plaquetas + 2 reunion. |
5.9
★★ Llaves de la Troca
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.9
★ Cortita 1
Ruta corta pero con buenos movimientos, la repisa al final esta muy cómoda. |
5.9
★★ Cortita 2
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10a
★★ Botanera
Se empieza por una grieta. La ruta cuenta con una nueva reunión. |
5.9
★★ Pequeña Lulu Izquierda
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.9
★★ Pequeña Lulu
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10b
★★ Andromeda
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10d
★ Escorpion
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca |
Pico Independencia (izq) y Pico Pirineos (der).
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca Pico Independencia (izq) y Pico Pirineos (der). |
5.10c
★★★ Las Espinas
Despues del tercer largo se mueve a la derecha, pasando por un largo pequeño con un diedrito, conectando con el largo que va a hacia la palma donde esta el crux. Los ultimos dos largos son cortos para salir al puerto entre la pared de juan de dios y la arista independencia, rapel por detras de 20 mts |
5.10d
★★★ El Infierno aka La Arista Independencia
La ruta es complicada ya que es deportiva. Pero recientemente construyeron una via ferrata, interfiriendo a lo largo de la ruta en varias ocasiones |
5.9 A2
★★★ La Norte Independencia
Tambien conocida como la checoeslovaca. Fue la primer ruta en la que se utilizo una cuerda dinamica como tal. Ya que antes se escalaba en l zona, con cuerdas de henequen. Probablemente por el mal estado de la ruta pueda llegar a ser A2-A3. Ya que muchos clavos y chavetas estan podridos |
A3+
★★★ La Directisima
Esta iconica ruta fue la primera ruta por el centro de la pared Independencia. Intentada por varias cordadas hasta que finalmente PAUL VERA en un estilo impecable, hace el primer ascenso en solitario de esta via en el mas puro estilo aperturista. Huastequismo puro |
5.12d
★ The life you can save
Established by visiting British climber Gareth "Gaz" Leah during his initiative Project Wall-E and NGO, Escalando Fronteras. The route takes teh super direct line from the valley floor to the summit through a plethora of rock formations and styles. The route is very well equipped and the harder sections can be aided through by "french free" climbing. For those looking to climb the route over 2 days, It is possible to Bivi under the roof at the 7th pitch but a hammock is recommended. |
Unknown
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11c
★★★ Reinas y Reyes
The route rappels are not by the same route. Watch out for rhe the snakes. Rappel es por la parte trasera del pico de independencia. Pero la ruta nunca toca esta pared. El pico q escalas es el pirineos en realidad. Se baja por atras siguiendo los rapeles indicados con amarillo y azul en otra de las imagenes. |
5.10c
María Urrutia
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.10b
★★★ Ernest Mallafre
Esta ruta se accesa por la canaleta que usan para hacer el rapel que baja a la cueva de la virgen. Esta a tres o cuatro metros a la izquierda de Reynas y Reyes y las únicas protecciones son chavetas y clavos viejos. La ruta tiene muy pocas protecciones y tiene hasta 20 metros de espacios sin anclajes, por esto es necesario/recomendable llevar stoppers y algunos cams. El cruz si tiene alrededor de 10 chavetas pero todas están oxidadas y la reunión es una sola chaveta antigua. El primer largo son como 30 metros pero puedes juntarlo sin problema con el segundo largo. Pasas por una chimenea que requiere un poco de técnica. El tercer largo es un poco más fácil y acaba en una pequeña repisa donde inicias una travesía a la izquierda. El cuarto largo lo agrego solo porque es la travesía de 10 metros a la izquierda para dar belay de un lugar más cómodo y poder ver al escalador en la siguiente sección. El quinto largo inicia con una travesía a la izquierda y luego entras a la canaleta a la parte más aérea de la ruta, la reunión es una argolla con una cadena vieja, es más recomendable subir uno o dos metros más y montar una reunión con stoppers o cams. El último largo ya no entra de lleno a la canaleta, vas por un filito o arista la izquierda de la canaleta que sube el largo anterior. Para bajar tiene que caminar un poco hacia abajo por la otra cara de la pared haciendo como un trayecto de media luna que baja y luego sube un poco hasta llegar a las cadenas del rapel. El primer rapel son como 45 metros, con una cuerda de 80 se pueda hacer y desescalar un poco. Sigues un caminito como si quisieras llegar a la pared donde termina la tirolesa de la vía ferrata, pasas un chorreadero y topas el caminito hasta topar con el siguiente rapel de aproximadamente 30 metros. Llegas a otra estación de donde ya no hay problema siguiendo las chavetas y las siguientes estaciones para terminar de bajar. |
5.10b
★★★ Primer Año
Cuidado con piedras sueltas. First pitch goes through a couple of bushes, next two pitches are a little less full of plants while the last pitch is a must do, great exposure and excellent quality rock and move on an exposed backdrop with a beautiful scenery of the parks entrance. (a set of stoppers could be of help) Bajas por atras de la cueva de la virgen, para bajar por el hike de esta misma. |
5.9
★★★ Pirineos Sur
Esta fue la primer ruta de estos picos y esta en la cara sur por donde estan los rapeles |
5.9
★★★ Arista Diablos
Fue Una de las mejores rutas de la zona. Lamentablemente la via ferrata casi destruyo por completo este legado de los antecesores. Aventura |
Cueva trasera Pico Pirineos
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca Pico Independencia (izq) y Pico Pirineos (der). Cueva trasera Pico Pirineos |
5.12d
EL Lobo del desierto
El Lobo del desierto 470mts, 5.12d Multilargo de escalada deportiva, roca de varios largos establecida por Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia y Luca Giupponi a principios de enero de 2016 Este ruta se ubica por las cara este y norte del Pico Pirineos en Monterrey en México. 12 largos en total hasta 5.12d, un gran muro impresionante, escalado, limpiado y liberado. La ruta tiene 12 largos (470 mts) y está calificada como (5.12d). El gran muro se trepó desde cero sin utilizar ayudas entre un perno y otro. Largos: 1- 12a 50mts / 2- 12b 40mts / 3- 12a 35mts / 4- 12c 40mts / 5-11b 40mts / 6- 5.9 30mts / 7- 12a 40mts / 8- 12b 35 / 9- 11c 40 mts / 10-12d 40mts / 11- 11a 30mts / 12- 11d 50mts. Este multilargo esta armado con estilo deportiva, pero los armadores sugieren llevar equipo adicional de apoyo. VER INFORMACIÓN EN TOPO DIBUJO Puedes hacer medio multilargo (7 largos) , si sales por la cueva trasera de la virgen e inicias por la canaleta de lado derecho. (ver fotografia de parte trasera de la cueva) PARA BAJAR, UTILIZA LOS MISMOS RAPELES DE REINAS Y REYES POR ATRAS DEL PICO PIRINEOS. |
La Huasteca |
Cueva de la Virgencita
Es la cueva más pequeña que está debajo de la cueva de la virgen. |
Las Hienas
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
La Huasteca Las Hienas |
5.11b
Bellota
Muy cortita pero bonita |
5.11c
★ Maquinaria Diesel
Recomiendo que enclipes la primer plaqueta desde el piso con un palo. |
5.11b
★ One for the head
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.12a
Fire
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11c
The nut breaker
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.12a
MAMMUT
las 2 vias son 5.12a |
La Huasteca |
La Martha
This great area with 5.10 and 5.11 routes is located below the Virgen and Virgencita caves. |
La Huasteca La Martha |
5.11c
★★ Susurrando Mentes
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |
5.11c
★★★ Tetas de Perra y Pinchazos de Hamburgesa
The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible. |