Nodes in The Conundrums

This area is directly above "The Wave" and is marked by a long black streak. Most routes are multi-pitch routes on grey and dark grey rock but the wall also features a great 5.13a (Cyclops) on its left side. In winter most of this wall stays in the shade all day.

First pitch has been bolted and partially cleaned to provide access to "The Vatican".

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Goes up the face of the dome following the thin crack left higher up.

Climbs the grey slab on the right side of Cyclops Dome.

Old trad route that has been bolted. Follows the left trending crack.

Another retro-bolted trad route.

BEWARE: This route is too long even for a 70m rope, lots of loose rock in the rappel, lots of friction, lots of spikey plants. I would stay away from this one.

To rap on one rope, use anchor from "Sin Soul" as an intermediate.

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Pitch 1 10a Pitch 2 10a Pitch 3 5.9

Might find 3-4 bolts per pitch, but should bring gear.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

Climbs the big black streak on the eastern side of the canyon at the top right of the Conundrums crag. This climb is in the shade all day, so a good choice for a warm day. The route is quite popular and can get very overcrowded. Beware of the loose blocks on the final pitch, some are marked with white-painted skulls and have to be willfully avoided.

1. 5.9+: 13 bolts, climb good rock with nice moves until a good belay ledge.

2. 5.10d: 14 bolts, The technical crux of the climb. Can be done in a number of ways. Plenty of tiny crimps will get you thinking about how to pull the moves.

3. 5.9: 8 bolts, Go left, up a ramp, the layback crux (very very well protected) will lead to a nicely exposed traverse back to the right to find a belay directly above the previous one. The metal cable is NOT safe to be used.

4. 5.10b: 16 bolts, some gymnastic moves will lead you up this wonderful pitch. Great holds to a decent belay ledge.

5. 5.10a: 9 bolts, very short pitch that can be linked with the previous (preferred if capable) or the next one. Climb up the dihedral and belay from the top of the right pillar.

6. 5.9+: 20 bolts: Make your way through and around loose blocks, carefully avoiding the white-painted skulls.

The top out is not on the ridge (a small boulder problem might lead you to the ridge).

Use a 70 m rope. Rappel the route.

First route just to te right of Pitch Black.

Pitch 1 (5.10a) 20m 6 bolts

Pitch 2 (5.11c) 23m 9 bolts(left), 13 bolts (right)

Pitch 3 (5.12a) 35m - [right variation 5.11a] 17 bolts

Pitch 4 (5.11b) 30m 13 bolts

Pitch 5 (5.11b) 30m 10 bolts

Pitch 6 (5.10d) 20m 13 bolts

Pitch 7 (5.10d) 30m 9 bolts

Pitch 8 (5.10c) 10m 5 bolts

Descent: Rapp the route using a 70m rope, caution rappeling 5th and 4th pitches, use a quickdraw at the traverse to keep straight with the line, or rapp straight down and at the end move to the left to get to the anchor. When rappeling the 3rd pitch consider getting to the start of the 12b pitch. Tie your knots.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.