Help

Nodes in The Spires

Searching in:

Search filters:

Sort by:

Showing all 25 nodes.

Node
The Spires

The obvious pair of spires on the right side, past the cattle gate.

North Side

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

North Side
5.9 Crack Test Dummies

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

  1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

  2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

  3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

5.11a Achtung Rheinstein Arete

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

5.10d Getting Wood

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12a Handsome Mike's Modeling School

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10a Aguja Cielo Rey

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

5.11a Hasi

Just to the right of 2nd pitch of Aguja Celo Rey. Share anchors with that one. Gold bolts.

5.10b Off the Notch

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

5.11a UberMachismo

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10d Jungle Honey

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12b The Fall of Eve

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.11b Dirty Dreams

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

South Side

The side further away from the entry gate, facing the sun. Routes are listed in order from highest (uphill) to lowest (downhill).

South Side
5.7 Uphill Route

Climb the western ridge of the uphill spire.

5.12d Tool

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.11d Pangea

A Potrero Chico classic.

5.12d Gondwanaland

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10d Through the Looking Glass

Starts on the south face of the uphill spire, then through the "looking glass" (tunnel between the spires), and up the north face of the downhill spire. First pitch 9 bolts, second 7 bolts.

5.12a Peek-a-Boo Jesus

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12a Aspire

Bolt line up the face of the down-hill spire. Use the anchor of Peek-a-Boo Jesus to rap down if your rope is too short.

5.11d Young Crankenstein

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10d Easy Over

Shares anchor with first pitch of "Sunnyside Up", you can link up to the top from there.

5.10c Sunnyside Up

This is a 2 pitch route with a sub-anchor for rappel on (long) 2nd pitch. Pitch 1: 10 bolts Pitch 2: 17 bolts (10 to sub-anchor)

5.9 Downhill Route

Climb the downhill ridge (the ridge facing the road) of the downhill (eastern) spire.

Showing all 25 nodes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文