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Nagarjun

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Aka: Balaju

Description

Nagarjun, also known as the Rani Ban (Queen's Forest), which is home to pheasants, deer, monkeys and a couple of military posts. It is one of the last significant areas of untouched forest in the valley. There are 19 climbing routes from grade 4 to 7b overhang climbing including multi pitches of 65 meters to single pitches at 12 meters. The cliff is broken up into 4 separate faces. Most of the climbing is slightly slabby to vertical, and the routes would be considered moderate difficulty.

Nagarjun Forest Reserve is in northwest Kathmandu, just outside of the ring road. The main entrance to the reserve, Phulbari gate, is about 2km north of Balaju, which is about 5 kms from the center of the city. There is a fee to enter the reserve and like everything in Nepal, foreigners pay a premium. Foreigners pay 250 NR, whereas locals pay 10 NR. There is also a charge to bring in a car/motorcycle/bicycle 100/30/10NR. You will have to pay and register with the attendant before you are allowed to enter the park. The park is open 7am-7pm during summer and 7am-5pm in winter.

In addition to rock climbing, many people visit the park to hike to the summit for the great views of the valley. A winding unpaved road and a much more direct footpath lead to the summit (2095m), which is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site (the reserve is named after the Buddhist saint Nagarjuna). There's a small shrine at the summit to Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche in Tibetan) and a viewing tower offers one of the valley's widest mountain panoramas, stretching on a clear day all the way from the Annapurnas to Langtang Lirung, via Machhapuchhare, Manaslu and the Ganesh Himal (a plaque at the bottom of the tower identifies all the peaks). There are also grand views of Kathmandu and its valley laid at your feet to the south, assuming you can see through the smog and pollution. It's possible to make an enjoyable two-hour cardio-hike up to the summit from near the main gate.

Video.

Access issues

You can only enter the park before 2 pm, if it is later they will tell you to come back tomorrow.

For foreigners the guards wanted 4000 rupee a person to climb.

Approach

Nagarjun Rock Climbing site is located 3km northwest of Kathmandu Valley, in Nagarjun Forest Reserve, which is 30 minutes drive from Thamel.

Since there are few recognized street names in Kathmandu, it is hard to give directions. Make your way to Balaju, and head out of town on the Trisuli highway. Follow the road uphill about 2 kms past Balaju. On the left hand side of the road at the first police checkpoint is the main entrance.

Once inside the park, follow the "road". It is a road by Nepali standards, but most of us would call it a rough trail. When you hit a fork in the road, take the road on the left that traverses the hill rather than going up. There is a sign reads "Balaju". Roughly 2 kms after entering, you will see a small pull-out on the right side. The cliff will be easily visible from here.

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Routes

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Grade Route

First route on the far left side of the wall. A good warm up. Anchor is just below a large tree at the top of the pitch. Furthest route to the left on the wall. Has a fresh 1 painted in yellow and green at the base.

Another good warm out route. Second route on the wall. Have a #2 painted at the base and is the obvious bolt line to the right of the painted #1.

One the left face, third line of bolts from the left. Follows a left leaning crack that felt a bit slippery in spots.

On the left face near a lighter colored crack from water run off. Route 5 follows that stain directly, route 4 is the bolt line up the face to the left with shared anchors. Slightly more challenging than the 4c to the left. A few tricky and slippery spots.

On the left face. Follows the lighter colored rock up the water run off groove. Very slippery rock from the water run off, particularly before the first bolt. Gets easier with more features near the top. Shares anchor with route 4.

On the left side of the rock face. The darker colored rock just to the right of a lighter colored water run off. A #6 is painted at the base. Possibly the hardest route here. Slightly overhanging, slippery and relatively blank face to the right of the water run off on the left side of the wall. 1st bolt cut? May need to stick clip to reach the upper bolts. Lowest bolt may be cut, stick clip probably a good idea for this one.

On the left middle face, the left most of three bolted lines. Has a large pocket near the first bolt. For some reason, butterflies seem to like this pocket. On the left middle face, left most of the three. A nice pocket but poor and slippery feet, especially after your shoes get a little clay on them from walking around the base! Get much easier after the lower crux.

Directly above the Number 8 painted on the wall. Nice climb.

One arms length to the right of the number 8 painted on the wall. Nice features, favorite route on this wall.

First route right of the three routes with 7 and 8 painted below them. Pleasant route with a couple ways to pull the crux.

Follows a broken crack in the lower angled bowl to the left of the chimney and right of the harder routes on the middle left face. 3m to the left of a larger tree growing part way up. In the center of the broad face/ crack about 5m to the left of the chimney. Easy crack with great holds and one tricky spot near the last bolt.

Two routes left of the chimney. Easy low angle to a few moves just before the anchors.

Can't miss it. Look for the big chimney. This is probably the most distinct and fun route in the area. Start at the base of the prominent chimney. The bolts for this route run along the right side. Stem your way up. You need to climb up to clip the 4th bolt (works best of you extend this one), then move down a bit and traverse left. The next small, bulging section is the crux. Follow on through to the easy climbing. There is one more small bulging section to climb through right before the anchor.

The narrow face right of the chimney and left of the arete. Climbs to the left of the arete and right of the chimney. Probably best done as a top rope after climbing the chimney ("Route 14") since the bolts are mostly on the other side of the arete shared with route 16. Anchor shared with route 14

1 4c
2 5b

4+4 bolts. From the chimney, walk downslope to the right face. Route 15 and 16 climb the arete on the right of the chimney. First pitch of route 17 heads directly up the face. Gets you above treeline to see Kathmandu and Swayambhunath at the second anchors. Totally worth it. Second pitch is the crux pitch

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Sun 30 Apr
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