Routes in Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty for selected grade

Access this line from the anchor of The Jester. Traverse left, clip and extend the first bolt of Tane Mahuta. Climb the dihedral to the anchor under the roof.

Hard to read crux.

This Climb will grant you access to the upper tier. Head up the open book corner left of Perzonal Kravingz. The first section is very balancey but as you get the second bolt it turns into a easy fun climb. Stick to the left face or bridge through the corner. Attention!!! Try to choose the big chickenheads for footers as the smaller ones might give in. Double ring and chain anchor at the ledge.

Into the open book up the center of the roof complex, left of "What We Do In The Shadows" follow the sloppy ledges to the Double ring and chain anchor.

Left of "Death From Above" Power in through the roof and up easier ground, Double ring and chain anchor to the right of the ledge. A 60-80cm sling in the bottom hanger will help with lowering.

The very right hand end of the wall on the Wall of Cheese. Climbs the slab to a double bolt anchor under the roof. Thoughtful climbing to a crux move just before the anchor.

Up the face to a ledge. Follow the thin right crack to a double bolt ring anchor.

Wide left crack is out.

Climb past a piton and two bolts straight up to the top, crux is a long move to the third bolt. DRB

Three Bolts, starting from the flake feature at the bottom. Climb on good holds up the wall and bulge, until above the third bolt the jugs stop and thoughtful balancy moves gain the top.

The wall right of Great Rock and Roll Trundle, protected with glue in ring bolts. Great climb with big moves on good holds, crux between third and fourth bolts.

Scramble up 6-7m to the wall set back and right of Big Fanny (the LH corner crack not the off width). Climb the blocky overhang and up the wall to the DRB belay. 1 grade easier if you bridge out right.

Name changed.

Start in the corner left of the arete, as Simone, then break out left past the first bolt (can also be used on Simone to make the start less bold). The crux is passing the bulge between the second and third bolts, several variations but easiest just right of the bush. Some brittle rock near the top, so pull carefully (will be sorted with some traffic). Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson 11/02/16

Named as the first ascentionists wheelbarrowed a generator to power the drill, and aren't that young...Ten metres further along the path. Start as Left and Right routes, at a vague corner line through the less good rock of the initial section, to a ledge right of the first bolt. Climb straight up passing the break and up the upper arete (left of LR) to the top, passing six more bolts. DRB belay.

Middle of the three bolted routes, with common start. Climb up to half way break, then sustained technical moves up to belay anchors on ledge above. 7b

Crack right of Right Route. Start as Left and Right Routes to the second bolt, then up the crack to the cave on the right (Large cam in floor, small cams in roof). Finger jam out of the cave and up the upper crack, moving left at the top to Right Wall belay, medium and small wires.

The bolted crack, with painful finger jams pulling over the initial bulge.

Five metres right of Grimper. Short and reasonably steep. The rock is good enough, to DRB belay

The next two climbs are gained by climbing the easy grass and rock ramp running up leftwards of Flesh Buttress to ledges below the clean wall above Pork Scratchings, and to a belay at the first bolt of Bacon Butty. The crack line right of Forgotten. Crux moves where the crack fades and a sloping ledge is gained. Protected by three bolts to a shared DRB with Forgotten.

The pillar on the right side the cave/scoop right of Fleschbeschir. Climb up keeping left of the pohutakawa tree, after which it steepens and there lies the crux. The angle eases towards the DRB belay.

This needed a lot of cleaning. Start up slabby rock left of Ulex Europeaus/ Gentic, to the hand crack. Up this then rightwards in front of the wedged block. Up the headwall to crux as the angle eases off. DRB.

Fun technical climbing directly up the middle of the slab. Easier version (17) can be climbed up the left hand crack system. Belayers position can be a bit precarious so belayer beware. DRB Belay.

Traverse from the good sidepull in the middle of the wall out to the left end through an undercling compression move.

Start matched on the obvious jug with feet on the small rail and move up through the dish on top of the overhang.

Start matched on the white sloper (there are a couple of small dishes in it). Move up through the prominent side-pull. Interesting finish.