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Champness Rock

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Summary

Glacier carved schist, offering good slab climbing. Spectacular views onto Franz Josef Glacier and out to the Tasman Sea.

Description

Hard and compact schist. Routes are well equipped with bolts. All anchors equipped for rappelling. May look green from a distance, as the area is seldom climbed, but once you get up there you'll see it's clean where it matters. You are welcome to bring a wire brush and spend some time cleaning. Check the weather before you go, this part of the country is extremely wet. The lightest rain will turn the rock extremely slippery. All routes require at least a 60 meter rope and 10 quickdraws. Bring water as the valley can be very hot. Check conditions on this webcam (located on the top of the crag): www.snowgrass.co.nz/franz

Access issues

On occasions the Waiho River blocks access.

Approach

From the Franz Josef Glacier Car Park walk up the valley track (20-30min). Champness is the obvious rock leading down to the valley floor some 200 metres before the terminal moraine on the true left. Once at the nose of Champness, continue on around the wall for 100 metres where you will find some old steps made out of boulders. From here follow the rough path up to the first ladder in a chimney (used to access the glacier decades ago), continue up past two more ladders and chain fences. At the top of the third ladder. Head up and right for the right side area and left for the Slab Valley Area.

Where to stay

Plenty of possibilities in Franz Josef Township.

Ethic

The valley is part of Aoraki/Tai Poutini National Park, and is a world heritage site. Respect the old rules: leave only footprints and take only photos.

Routes

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Grade Route

First climbed with natural protection, bolts make it a bit more fun. Start up the easy ramp to a rap chain, you can belay from here to watch the crux or head on up. Climb the natural ladder feature before heading left to the scoop, and up over bulge above. Finishes just below the box ledge.

FA: AJ Beaumont & Craig Buckland, 2012

P1; Great climbing up a series of boulder problems. Start at the right end of the box ledge up the natural ladder ~27m bolts. P2; Belay on the ledge before heading up and veering left after the crux to the arête ~35m. 60 metre rope required to rap back down, the mid rap station is to the right of the middle belay.

FA:

Open project slab climbs.

Start as for Polly Pocket but head right to DBB after the 5th bolt.This provides access to a ledge system and more climbs. From the DBB of the access line, walk along the ledge to access the next climbs. This ledge can be quite exposed with a few shrubs hiding the exposure. Maybe worth keeping a rope on.

Well protected route. P1: grade 14 over steepening terrain. Look for Polly's Pocket! P2: grade 17 good holds then balancy moves traversing leftwards to the anchor. Once at the top its possible to scramble over to "Mantel Piece Theatre"

FA: Craig Buckland, 2013

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Tue 23 May
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