Glacier carved schist, offering good slab climbing. Spectacular views onto Franz Josef Glacier and out to the Tasman Sea.
Hard and compact schist. Routes are well equipped with bolts. All anchors equipped for rappelling. May look green from a distance, as the area is seldom climbed, but once you get up there you'll see it's clean where it matters. You are welcome to bring a wire brush and spend some time cleaning. Check the weather before you go, this part of the country is extremely wet. The lightest rain will turn the rock extremely slippery. All routes require at least a 60 meter rope and 10 quickdraws. Bring water as the valley can be very hot. Check conditions on this webcam (located on the top of the crag): www.snowgrass.co.nz/franz
On occasions the Waiho River blocks access.
From the Franz Josef Glacier Car Park walk up the valley track (20-30min). Champness is the obvious rock leading down to the valley floor some 200 metres before the terminal moraine on the true left. Once at the nose of Champness, continue on around the wall for 100 metres where you will find some old steps made out of boulders. From here follow the rough path up to the first ladder in a chimney (used to access the glacier decades ago), continue up past two more ladders and chain fences. At the top of the third ladder. Head up and right for the right side area and left for the Slab Valley Area.
Plenty of possibilities in Franz Josef Township.
The valley is part of Aoraki/Tai Poutini National Park, and is a world heritage site. Respect the old rules: leave only footprints and take only photos.
First time here?
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Champness Rock - Right side
Champness Rock - Mantel Piece Theatre
Champness Rock - Overview
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