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Eagle Rock All Trad climbing 3 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: AU
3
AU
161820222426

Description

Eagle Rock is a large granite monolith located in the alpine of the Borland Valley. Host to a small number of staunch trad routes, its a great place to test the skills of the up and coming trad climber.

Access issues inherited from Borland Valley

From early May to mid October, the road to the Borland crags is closed. Though winter here is not suitable for cragging due to seepage. But for those determined enough, a bike can be ridden up the road.

Approach

From the Main Bluffs, cross the water catchment for the bivy rock. Keep sideling, following a marked trail that trends upward to a creek. From here you're on your on. The routes can either be access by abseiling in, or from a ledge system from the lookers right both of which can be committing.

Ethic inherited from Borland Valley

Leave no trace.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 ★★★ Flight Rules Mixed trad 30m, 5

Ascend the flake to gain the rad dyke feature.

Set: James Morris

2
26 ★★★ Ride the Lightening Mixed trad 30m, 4

Either rap in or gain access to the starting ledge from the side. A stiff boulder problem leads into a stellar corner crack with great gear.

FA: Troy Mattingley & Zac Orme, 2014

3
{US} 5.9 ★★★ The Beak Trad 30m

Technical slab onto a ledge to very technical moves into a open triangle chimney. Hand jams into difficult moves into a true off-width, once actually in the off-width it's not too hard if you know how to climb off-width. Can be done with a single rack up to number 3 but you may feel more comfortable with at least one 4. No need for bigger gear as the crack narrows towards the back.

Couldn't give it a New Zealand grade, nothing like it here.

FA: Helen

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Fri 28 Apr
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