Routes in Fiordland

A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo

Right of Solitude. The names are nicely written on the rock.

Climb slab until the roof. Follow chalked up weakness through the rock, then diagonally left to anchors.

Fully bolted

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.

Fully bolted

P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height.

P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges)

P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay.

P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it.

P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m.

P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof.

P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below.

An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike.

The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays.

Up the rungs which are 3m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB.

Overhanging left leaning crack line.

Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps! Now fully bolted, with permadraws.

Start from tree on top of slab. Up whit steak rock. Join ITP.

From top of the rungs climb rightwards to the CN belay.

Arguably the greatest rock climb in New Zealand.

Start on the ring bolt anchor between Pro Rata and Dread Zone. Can be accessed from the ledge by rapping down to the Dread Zone anchor and then traversing across left.

The pitch is now fully bolted with fun, flowy moves.

Fully bolted. P1: 14 bolts; P2: 8 bolts; P3: 9 bolts. The line starts into a corner-like feature then veers left onto a smooth slab.

30m if starting from the top of the fixed line, 35m from the ground. First bolt is slightly higher than comfortable.

Daisy is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Nice moves in every pitch on great quality rock.

1st Pitch 12 2nd Pitch 19 3rd Pitch 18 4th Pitch 15 5th Pitch 20

From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Fully bolted as of 2016.

Start as per ITP then head right after the roof to link 2 bolts then into Jugular

check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/uprising

Start as for Dread Zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch 1. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the Chill-Out ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge.

A spectacular bolted line up the Feature Face. Varied techniques required. Pitches: 17,21,19. Climb the left awkward crack past 2 bolts to follow line up face. The second pitch is the money, and is sustained and delicate. Third pitch also requires some delicate work, but eases off towards the anchor. All anchors double bolted. 1st and 3rd have rings to aid rap on double ropes. Can descend via 3 raps on a single rope as some fixed gear has been left on the second anchor (please don't steal). Otherwise, find a single bolt on top of formation and descend the north-side to reach the Upper Bluffs.

Bring a light rack. Bolted belays, and the occasional bolt.

On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Follow the line of bolts directly up.

Start from the first bolt along the ledge.

The awesome headwall above the ring bolt on Bish Bosh Bash. Finishes at the cold shuts.

Two steep pitches up a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round towards the NE Face.

Climb two (or three??) pitches of Eureka, then branch out right for three pitches.

At the top of the second pitch, you have two options. Left or right. Both lead to the top of the wall.

From the bivvy at the Gertrude Saddle, walk up the snowfields following the cairns on the north face towards the Traverse Pass. From the top of the Traverse, follow the rocky ridge towards the east to the summit of Mt Talbot. There are some loose rocks but also some good rock protection (cams, wires), it's easy rock. It takes a few hours from the saddle to summit. 705m elevation from saddle.

Extend or unclip from the top of Rua Tahi, step right to the bolt you can see, then head north on small edges then jugs and over a bulge.

Slab left of rungs.

A Unique Day/Multi Day climb involving a kayak, relentless approach through thick scrub and extremely exposed scrambling. Some of the best exposure attainable below the snowline.

Kayak or inflatable from Deepwater Basin across the sound to Sinbad River mouth and follow the obvious ridgeline up to the Footstool. Only water on route is a small tarn (sometimes a puddle) on the saddle after the footstool. Follow ridge to summit.

Climb 'Spin' to its anchor, then climb onto the ledge above. A bolt has being placed to protect this. Belay off the tree in front of the crack. Layback your way over the bulge and jam your way to the anchors. Superb quality, pity it isn't longer.

Fully bolted. P1: 11 bolts; P2: 7 bolts. Confusingly, start on the bolt line to the left of painted marking ´BJ’.

Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall.

Pitch1:15m, Pitch2:16m, Pitch3:40m, Pitch4:30, Pitch5:20m, Pitch6:25m, Pitch7:50m, Pitch8:35m, Pitch9:35m, Pitch10:20m, Pitch11:50m, Pitch12:35m, Pitch13:32m, Pitch14:40m, Pitch15:37m, Pitch16:27m, Pitch17:30m, Pitch18:22m, Pitch19:30m, Pitch20:40m, Pitch21:37m, Pitch22:20m

Bolted line 1m right of Feature Face Direct.

Sustained, varied and interesting face climbing. Spent many hours cleaning the first pitch but will tidy up even more with traffic - this pitch will be dry after a couple of days of fine weather. Equipped for rappel.

P1: 20, climb runnels moving up and right and then straight up to anchor. 20m, 8b

P2: 23, move up from anchors and step right on underclings, hard moves through the overlap to sustained face cranking. quality pitch. 25m, 9b

P3: 20, step left and up, then delicate face climbing directly above from belay. 15m, 6b

Left and up from the top of the rungs. Shares the first 2 bolts of JTB.

A great little route as either an alternative start to the East Ridge or a short climb on its own.

Steep trad climbing with excellent gear. Clip the first bolt, swallow hard and crank. Cams up to BD #2

Large right to left crack system on the left side of the Diamond Face.

Climb The Autumn Tower to the fourth bolt before following the crack that cuts off diagonally right across the lower face of the wall to end by the bush.

Climb as for Man of Substances but finish at the anchor on the bulge.

Shares the first 7 pitches of Uprising. From the base of pitch 8 on Uprising follow the wall right till you reach a hand line up. Wild Dykes starts/continues at the top of the handline. 17 pitches of immaculate granite climbing.

Bivys for 3 at the base of pitch 8 (after the approach pitches. Another bivy for 3 on ledges at the end of pitch 13. Water jugs are in place at both bivvies.

Can be climbed/rapped on a single 60m rope. Single rack from 0.2 to 3 and doubles in fingers + nuts + 12 draws (or more if you want to link - beware rope drag). For more info check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/wild-dykes

Amazing adventure up the leading edge of Copper Point. The last 2 pitches are shared with Siren's Call

Direct start to SE Buttress. Steep and interesting climbing with some loose, shattered flakes. The buttress above is the best part.

Start on the slabs left of the arches.

Steep grey wall then up the red streak.

Right hand side of the Split Persona Wall. Clip the first bolt by bridging from the tree. Then commit out of the tree onto the wall.

On the far left of the crag, follow handlines to the end, where a ring bolt signifies the start of the route.

3 bolts lead up a slab and into a broken corner. Step left after this onto slab and continue up to climb the epic right facing corner to a DbA. Well worth a lap - it's well protected. Take doubles of 0.3 to 1.

Can be in done two small out pitches. A 60m rope is enough to get you back for the handline.

Right diagonal weakness.

Far left of the crag. Bouldery moves lead to a ring bolt belay and extension.