Routes in Darran Mountains

A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo

Fully bolted

Fully bolted

P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height.

P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges)

P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay.

P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it.

P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m.

P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof.

P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below.

The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays.

An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike.

Arguably the greatest rock climb in New Zealand.

Fully bolted. P1: 14 bolts; P2: 8 bolts; P3: 9 bolts. The line starts into a corner-like feature then veers left onto a smooth slab.

Daisy is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Nice moves in every pitch on great quality rock.

1st Pitch 12 2nd Pitch 19 3rd Pitch 18 4th Pitch 15 5th Pitch 20

check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/uprising

Bring a light rack. Bolted belays, and the occasional bolt.

On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

Two steep pitches up a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round towards the NE Face.

Climb two (or three??) pitches of Eureka, then branch out right for three pitches.

At the top of the second pitch, you have two options. Left or right. Both lead to the top of the wall.

From the bivvy at the Gertrude Saddle, walk up the snowfields following the cairns on the north face towards the Traverse Pass. From the top of the Traverse, follow the rocky ridge towards the east to the summit of Mt Talbot. There are some loose rocks but also some good rock protection (cams, wires), it's easy rock. It takes a few hours from the saddle to summit. 705m elevation from saddle.

A Unique Day/Multi Day climb involving a kayak, relentless approach through thick scrub and extremely exposed scrambling. Some of the best exposure attainable below the snowline.

Kayak or inflatable from Deepwater Basin across the sound to Sinbad River mouth and follow the obvious ridgeline up to the Footstool. Only water on route is a small tarn (sometimes a puddle) on the saddle after the footstool. Follow ridge to summit.

Fully bolted. P1: 11 bolts; P2: 7 bolts. Confusingly, start on the bolt line to the left of painted marking ´BJ’.

Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall.

A great little route as either an alternative start to the East Ridge or a short climb on its own.

Large right to left crack system on the left side of the Diamond Face.

Shares the first 7 pitches of Uprising. From the base of pitch 8 on Uprising follow the wall right till you reach a hand line up. Wild Dykes starts/continues at the top of the handline. 17 pitches of immaculate granite climbing.

Bivys for 3 at the base of pitch 8 (after the approach pitches. Another bivy for 3 on ledges at the end of pitch 13. Water jugs are in place at both bivvies.

Can be climbed/rapped on a single 60m rope. Single rack from 0.2 to 3 and doubles in fingers + nuts + 12 draws (or more if you want to link - beware rope drag). For more info check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/wild-dykes

Amazing adventure up the leading edge of Copper Point. The last 2 pitches are shared with Siren's Call

Direct start to SE Buttress. Steep and interesting climbing with some loose, shattered flakes. The buttress above is the best part.

Start on the slabs left of the arches.

Climb the ridge on the left of the South Face of the West Twin.

Classified as a "Death Route" by someone who probably hasn't climbed the route! Take a few pitons and a hammer and enjoy some great climbing.

Starting at the broken ledges, move left before straightening and climbing up the left side of the headwall. Continue right past the roofs to finish up the split headwall crack.

Good slabby face climbing marred by poor bolts

Start up an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove left of Strobe Light.

Superb climbing and great position/ exposure in lower half, then runs out of steam in upper section.

Access route from ground level to ledges under the Vass-Judge. Can scramble up to Tootsies from the top of the first pitch

If one reads the guidebook description with at least one eye open, it will be apparent that this route and the Price/ Scott route are the same. Sorry guys, we were there first!

On the right of the Diamond Face, follow grassy slabs trending up and right to the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

Variation of the Garden Trowel Route. Pitch one is the same, then climb through the steep wall and overlap directly above.

Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow a corner to some left-leaning ramps, then over the right side of the cliff.

Long slab and face climb right of the water streak on the Phil's Biv slabs.

This route takes the obvious big roof-capped corner straight to the summit.