Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Homer Hut Area The Pebble | |||||
19 | The Slab | ||||
23 | Doing the Dishes | ||||
25 | Doggy Style | ||||
22 | The Taupo Cat | ||||
Homer Hut Area Belle | |||||
Left of Original Route | |||||
Original Gilkison Davis Route | |||||
16 | ★★ South Face (Hudson, Biggs)
If one reads the guidebook description with at least one eye open, it will be apparent that this route and the Price/ Scott route are the same. Sorry guys, we were there first! FA: Barry Biggs & Calum Hudson | 300m | |||
17 | South Face (Price, Scott)
If one reads the guidebook description with at least one eye open, it will be apparent that this route is the same as the Biggs/ Hudson route. Sorry guys, we were there first! Calum. | ||||
17 | Orange Ripple | ||||
15 | North Face
This route takes the obvious big roof-capped corner straight to the summit. FA: Calum Hudson | 150m | |||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir | |||||
Original Route | |||||
North Ridge (from Homer Saddle) | |||||
West Face | |||||
West Ridge | |||||
16 | South Face | ||||
South Ridge | |||||
South East Face | |||||
Price Terpstra Blackburn Shearer Route | |||||
Homer Hut Area Moir North Face of Moir | |||||
18 | Big Pink | ||||
16 AID:A1 | ★ Butterbeans In Hyperspace | 4 | |||
Denz Herron Route | |||||
18 | ★★ Denz Hudson Route | ||||
18 | ★★ Wyatt Clark Begg Route | ||||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir Slab Routes | |||||
19 | ★ Coming To Grips | ||||
22 | ★ No Razor Blades at the Bottom of this One | ||||
23 | ★★ Vass Deferens | ||||
20 | ★★ I Am The Fly | 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Lapland | 2 | |||
23 | Mise En Scene | ||||
20 | Sewing of the Seam | ||||
23 | Unnamed | ||||
Biggs Marron Route | |||||
17 | ★ Cleddau Buttress of Moir | ||||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir's Mate | |||||
20 | ★ Ulren Route | ||||
19 | ★ Uren et al | ||||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir's Mate Diamond Face | |||||
McGregor McGregor Terpstra Route
Follow a shallow groove on the far left side of Moir's Mate, just right of the ridge. FA: Rick McGregor, Peter McGregor & Judith Terpstra, 1974 | 3 | ||||
18 | Keas And Car Thieves
1
17
35m
2
18
45m
3
16
50m
Start up an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove left of Strobe Light. FA: Paul Drew & Anjali Pande, 1998 | 130m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Strobe Light
1
21
30m
2
20
35m
3
17
40m
4
15
35m
Large right to left crack system on the left side of the Diamond Face. FA: John Dale & Nigel Perry, 1982 | 140m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Rough Diamond
1
20
2
16
3
21
4
19
5
21
FA: Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, Andrew McFarlane & David Stevens, 1999 | 120m, 5 | |||
21 | Uncut Gem
1
21
2
19
Variation of Rough Diamond, joining at the 3rd pitch. Start up the Rough Diamond crack for 20m, but continue climbing up to a belay. Follow some grooves then trend right to rejoin the original route. FA: Marty Beare & Stu Allan, 2002 | 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Garden Trowel Route
1
18
40m
2
19
45m
3
17
35m
On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner. FA: John Barnett, Al Hay & Galen Rowell, 1977 | 120m, 3 | |||
21 | Garden Trowel Direct
1
20
40m
2
21
45m
3
17
35m
4
19
30m
5
15
12m
Direct start to the Garden Trowel Route on the right of the original corners. FA: Guy Cotter & Nick Cradock | 160m, 5 | |||
24 | Brain Dynamics
1
18
40m
2
21
25m
3
24
25m
Variation of the Garden Trowel Route. Pitch one is the same, then climb through the steep wall and overlap directly above. FA: Steve Carr & Jonathan Clearwater, 2005 | 90m, 3, 5 | |||
18 | Snake Gully
1
16
2
18
3
16
On the right of the Diamond Face, follow grassy slabs trending up and right to the start of the Bowen Allan Corner. FA: Neal Mathieson & Hugh Widdowson, 1988 | 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Bowen Allan Corner
P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height. P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges) P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay. P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it. P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m. P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof. P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below. FA: Stu Allan & John Bowen, 1972 | 300m, 8 | |||
17 | Geoff's Crack
Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the crack on the left. | 30m | |||
18 | Between the Lines
Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the wall between the cracks. | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | Hugh Widdowson Crack
Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: crack to the right of Between the Lines. | 30m | |||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir's Mate West Face | |||||
21 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
1
16
30m
2
18
32m
3
20
30m
4
14
30m
5
21
30m
6
21
30m
7
21
30m
8
18
30m
9
21
30m
10
20
30m
An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike. FA: Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock & Jonathan Gillian, 2016 | 300m, 10, 19 | |||
22 | ★★★ Finders Keepers
1
15
25m
2
19
30m
3
18
30m
4
12
60m
5
22
20m
6
21
25m
7
21
30m
8
21
30m
9
21
30m
The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2013 | 280m, 9, 25 | |||
20 | ★★★ Lucky Strike
A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best. See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Dave Shotwell, 2010 | 280m, 7, 11 | |||
18 | ★ Central Line
Starting at the broken ledges, move left before straightening and climbing up the left side of the headwall. Continue right past the roofs to finish up the split headwall crack. FA: Murray Jones & Keith Nannery, 1969 | ||||
20 | English, Fearnley, Hudson
Start as for the Central Line, then turn right under the overhangs at the top slabs. Climb up a steep finger crack and up a groove to the top. FA: Merv English, Dave Fearnley & Calum Hudson, 1983 | ||||
17 | ★ Fantini Coradine
Starting from the broken ledges, climb right to a corner system then up a slab. Rap 20m down and left before climbing a gulley to the obvious overhang, then right and up to the summit. FA: Paul Coradine & John Fantini, 1970 | ||||
18 | Orthopod
Variation of Fantini Coradine. FA: Robin McNeill & Hugh Van Noorden, 1985 | ||||
19 | Red Zinger
Direct finish variation of Fantini Coradine. FA: Neal Mathieson & Hugh Widdowson, 1988 | ||||
Homer Hut Area Moir Moir's Mate The Mate's Little Brother | |||||
21 | Where's My Epirb?
1
18
2
21
3
21
4
21
Left side of the cliff. FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock & Glen Einam, 2008 | 4 | |||
22 | The Milford Cruise
1
20
2
22
3
21
FA: Murray Judge & Paul Rogers, 1989 | 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Brothers in Arms
1
20
2
23
3
21
4
21
Start on the slabs left of the arches. FA: Murray Judge & Paul Rogers, 1989 | 150m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Cradock's Retreat
1
21
2
21
FA: Guy Cotter & Nick Cradock, 1989 | 80m, 2 | |||
26 | Second Coming
1
16
2
23
3
26
4
22
5
21
6
19
7
19
Start up the easy slab below the overhanging arches. FA: Paul Aubrey & Mark Moorhead, 1980 | 120m, 7 | |||
28 | Armageddon
1
22
2
28
3
28
4
26
FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | 95m, 4, 20 | |||
27 | Revelations
1
27
2
26
3
25
4
20
FA: Derek Thatcher & Jamie Vinton-Boot, 2008 | 140m, 4, 19 | |||
24 | ★★★ New Jersey Drifter
1
24
2
21
3
21
4
22
5
18
FA: Kester Brown & Craig Jefferies, 2006 | 150m, 5 | |||
Gough-Wayatt
Start off the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. First 5 pitches originally aid climbed, last 2 pitches freed. The route trends up and left to a small roof near the top of the face. FA: Peter Gough & Geoff Wayatt, 1974 | 7 | ||||
19 | Crystal Void
1
17
2
13
3
19
4
16
Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow a corner to some left-leaning ramps, then over the right side of the cliff. FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1989 | 4 | |||
19 | Crystal Meth
1
16
2
17
3
19
4
16
Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow ledge systems up and left, then through a series of cracks to a lone right-facing corner on the edge of the cliff. FA: Brigid Allan, Steve Eastwood & Craig Jefferies, 2003 | 4 | |||
23 | Mechanical Failure
1
18
2
20
3
23
4
18
Start at the right side of the cliff, right of the arch and after starting to scramble up to the Moir ledges. A bolt and maillon marks the start of the route, about 15m above the ledges and slightly left. Bolted belays. FA: John Entwisle, Chris Burtenshaw & Jonathan Clearwater, 2010 | 4 | |||
Homer Hut Area Moir Mate's Little Brother | |||||
22 | ★★ The Milford Cruise | 3 | |||
23 | ★★★ Brothers in Arms | 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Cradock's Retreat | ||||
26 | ★★★ Second Coming | 6 | |||
Wyatt Gough Route | |||||
19 | ★ Crystal Void | ||||
15 | The Backside Route | 2 | |||
20 | English Breakfast | 2 | |||
18 | Black Girls | 2 | |||
Homer Hut Area Homer Tunnel Homer Tunnel Slabs | |||||
20 | ★★ Rock Busking | ||||
17 | Morning Glory | ||||
20 | The Curvy Thing | ||||
20 | ★★ Stage Fright | ||||
Homer Hut Area Homer Tunnel Starting at Homer Tunnel | |||||
Homer Tunnel to Mt Belle | |||||
Homer Tunnel to Homer Saddle | |||||
Homer Hut Area Homer Tunnel Homer Tunnel Bluffs | |||||
Chuckle Vision | 450m | ||||
Night Vision | 400m | ||||
Homer Sapiens | 400m | ||||
The Vortex | 350m | ||||
Tunnel of Love | 350m | ||||
Blurred Vision | 350m | ||||
Double Vision | 150m | ||||
The Visionary | 180m | ||||
No Vision | 130m | ||||
Gravelly Chimney of Joy | 60m | ||||
Dancing on a Tin Roof | 70m | ||||
Failing Vision | 80m | ||||
20 | ★★ Mātuitui
FA: Olivia Truax & Sam Waetford, Nov 2021 | 280m, 7, 14 | |||
20 | The Accesserbaiter
FA: Grant Piper, Sophie Jenkins & Liam Pyott, Feb 2022 | 300m, 7, 12 | |||
Homer Hut Area Homer Saddle Crag | |||||
20 | Tunnel Vision | 30m | |||
20 | Unnamed | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ I Like Horses |