Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Orange Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Lemon & Lime | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky for 16
|
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21 | ★★ Peeled Back — 3 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The distance between the bolts is scary. Other than that the climb was fun, ran out of time
|
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Kingfisher Area | |||||||
16 | ★★ Old Soldiers Never Die | 28m, 12 | |||||
Stay on the face of the wall to make it more interesting.
|
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19 | ★★★ Seriass | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good quality classic slab
|
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Bush Stream | |||||||
Mt Brown | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★★ Actions Speak Louder - with Ben Mitchell | 500m | |||||
12 hours climbing time (10 x 30-60m pitches). Ben and I had a great time on this route despite the occasional mossy/chossy/run-out pitch. Taking the time to make solid anchors and gardening to look for gear rather than running it out meant the climb became a long day and we did the final pitch and 30 metre rappel in the dark. A Kea attacking our ropes while Ben was on lead added some excitement to the climb.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Langdale Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Gorilla Warefare - with Ben Mitchell | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing route, once again more reminiscent of orange granite. Technical moves through a corner and between large (but solid) flakes. Some pause for thought going through the roof but a nicely placed bolt eases the mind.
|
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17 | ★ Red Rocket - with Ben Mitchell | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Would be a good warm-up
|
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20 | ★★ Tax Returns - with Ben Mitchell | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really cool features on slick smooth rock. More like climbing on orange granite than greywacke. Has a few gear placements at the bottom.
|
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18 |
★★★ The Offering
- with
Ben Mitchell
1
16
2
15
3
17
4
18
5
18
| 150m | ★ Good | ||||
Knocked this one out fairly quickly in the morning. Super nice rock and some cool moves on the last two pitches. Maybe not worth walk-in for this alone but it's definitely a good one to one to check out.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Hoophorn Stream | |||||||
V2 | ★ Bush Lawyer | ★ Good | |||||
cool edges
|
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V0 | ★★ The Great Pyramid of Hoophorn | ★★ Very Good | |||||
cool movement top needs a prune
|
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V7 | ★★★ Bitter Bitch Lie down start | ★★★ Classic | |||||
The sit moves add quite alot to the original boulder excellent line
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki Boulders | |||||||
V0 Easy | ★ NO.6 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Side pulls to a nice mantle
|
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V6 | ★★ NO.17 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Pretty happy to send this one, first 5 moves are pretty cool mix of nice slopers and sharp crimps
|
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V1 Hard | ★★★ NO.11 | ★ Good | |||||
Nice climbing up the arete
|
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V1 Hard | ★ NO.9 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
My second favourite boulder I've tried here. Nice edges and nice moves on good rock
|
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 ~14 | ★★ Red Arete - with siâny | 93m, 28 | |||||
More bolts than the titanic! Skip ever other one for the proper alpine experience. Nice flowy climbing. Keen to come back for the solo.
|
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Red Arete | 93m, 28 | |||||
simul practice
|
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14 |
★★ Shark Attack P1
1
14
50
| 50m, 20 | |||||
ryan couldn't be bothered seconding
|
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Kingfisher Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Keep Left Arête | 33m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Steep slab with some spicy run outs
|
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16 | ★★ Conservation Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Juggy crack with great gear. What more could you want
|
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20 | ★★ Clean Hands | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good techy slab on great rock.
|
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Twin Cracks | |||||||
21 | ★★ Ethical Debate | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried this on top rope a couple years back. Good to get the red point. Techy climbing
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress - with annaliese | 800m | ★ Good | ||||
Good day out but its far from a 3 star route. Mostly choss bashing up the ridge. Stellar views though
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Red Arete Alternative Start | 37m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Had a spare minute so worth a lap.
|
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16 | ★★ Shark Attack | 87m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great romp with a 5 months pregnant partner. About as good as I’ve seen for greywhacke.
|
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15 | ★ Let's Go Bush Walking | 65m, 18 | ★ Good | ||||
A pleasant ramble.
|
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Didymo Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Diatom Traverse | ★ Good | |||||
Cool traverse, eases out after the corner
|
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V0 | ★ Diatom face | ||||||
Approach to this crag is not 5-10 minutes as described. More like 15 including 5 along river rock, and the other boulders are even further away (from the highway park)
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress | 800m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spent ages trying to find the start. Ended up climbing a pitch 20m right of the arete. After that moved left onto the arete proper and did another pitch up the small corner on the arete (loose undercut block at the crux). 14 hours as a 3 and roped up for most of it
|
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress | 800m | ★ Good | ||||
Went direct up the obvious left facing corner at the toe of the buttress, followed this for 60m until pulling onto easier ground - crux maybe 17. The rest of the ridge is cruisy with some enjoyable cracks up orange slabs. Mostly scrappy scrambling. Wouldn't say 3 stars but the views definitely are. Car to car in 5 hours.
|
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Lunar Wall | |||||||
17 |
★★ Nicked Extension
1
17
25m
2
17
20m
3
15
40m
4
15
| 85m, 41 | |||||
So. Windy. Made the first pitch of the extension feel pretty exciting.
|
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18 | ★★★ Nicked | 55m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome pitch, very sustained technical slab. Some trad gear can be used to reduce some of the runouts. Small nuts and cams.
|
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki Boulders | |||||||
V1 | ★★★ NO.11 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Nice tall arete beautiful
|
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Thu 21st Dec 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Red Arete | 93m, 28 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The views! 😎
|
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Shark Attack | 87m, 20 | |||||
Not exactly route, but completed first two pitches according to NZAC guidebook.
|
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Shark Attack
- with
Freya lamont, Nick Cradock
| 87m, 20 | |||||
Fun morning out to finish off our mountaineering course. Continued up the last pitch of RA to get a bit more in. The fact Nick originally did this in gear is a bit wild!
|
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Shark Attack - with Marcus Kumar | 87m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun easy climbing
|
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Didymo Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★ Didymo Hum | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
May have been done before, but I could find no record of it. A one move wonder, but worth doing if in the area.
|
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V5 | ★★ Spoc Snot | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty bloody fierce without warming up properly!
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Hooker Valley | |||||||
V4 | ★ Shandy | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Made it to the end of the traverse, progress…
|
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V5/6 | ★★★ Counterstrike | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Really want to come back for this one. Need to try it fresh.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Black Beard Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ The Truth Over Solace In Lies | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat for the cheeky video.
|
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V5 | FA ★★ The Truth Over Solace In Lies — 5 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had the beta dialed from the last session. Went down pretty quickly this time. Really happy about how this one turned out.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Didymo Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Spoc Snot | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So good had to do it twice.
|
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V5 | ★★ Spoc Snot — 10 attempts | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loved this one. Suits my style.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Black Beard Boulder | |||||||
V5 Hard | ★★ Peg Leg Sit — 5 attempts | 2m | |||||
Climb like you’re on a Moonboard. Probably why I couldn’t do it.
|
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V4 | ★★ Walk the Plank — 7 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Best problem in the area.
|
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Poo Pond Crag | |||||||
13 Easy | ★ Nature's Good Will — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
I love slab
|
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Dover Field Pink Elephant | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Mastodon | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Committing finish on amazing finger locks.
|
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Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress - with Laura Price, B-ron Roberts, Brennan Bast | 800m | |||||
SCREE!! Late start and bad routefinding led to an unsuccessful attempt. Climbed the buttress on the left to have a nice late lunch with good views of the glacier
|
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Black Beard Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★ The Truth Over Solace In Lies — 25 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Probs 20-30 attempts to figure out how to climb the thing.
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Black Beard Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Walk the Plank — 4 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful Font-like boulder problem. Would be a polished classic in the Forest. So good!
|
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Hooker Valley | |||||||
V3 ~V4 | Backside — 8 attempts | 3m | Average | ||||
Rock quality far from perfect. Lots of hard moves for the grade.
|
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Hooker Valley Dude Incredible | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Dude Incredible — 3 attempts | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
King line
|
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V5 | ★★ Right of Arête — 20 attempts | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a fun one! Felt close. Just need a little bit more strength to hold the swing.
|
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V4 | ★ Left Arête — 7 attempts | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Somewhat scary rocking onto arête and slab. Might have bailed if not for the dozen of onlookers cheering me on.
|
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Hooker Valley | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Sine Wave SS — 10 attempts | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super hard
|
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V4 | ★ Shandy — 10 attempts | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Too late in the day, not enough juice left in the tank. Should be doable when fresh. Good contact strength and heel hook game required.
|
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Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★ Let's Go Bush Walking
- with
Ash and Naomi Whitehead and 3 children
1
2
| 65m, 18 | ★ Good | ||||
Set up top roping for children aged 2-5. Also climbed with 3 year old.
|
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | |||||
Repeat
|
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Lunar Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Nicked
1
2
| 55m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Tad runout, but not very difficult climbing. Good line!
|
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Bush Stream | |||||||
Mt Brown | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★★ Actions Speak Louder | 500m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Full value and well worth its reputation as one of NZ's finest alpine rock climbs. The crux pitches are fantastic.
|
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Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Shark Attack - with Jade Brigade | 87m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quickly informed by some locals this wasn't Red Arete which Michael had sold Charlie and I on doing.
Queue me spending 5 hours in the sun slowly groveling my way up the only true friction slab I've ever climbed.
Still a great day out though even if it felt like type 2 fun in the moment.
|
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Shakey Town | |||||||
19 | ★ Resurrection | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
It was a fun surprise to arrive at this wall expecting to find only one line, only to encounter a plethora of new bolts on routes that at the time were mysteries to me.
|
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | |||||
Pitch 1 in full shank boots. Grim
|
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki Boulders | |||||||
V1 | ★★★ NO.11 - with Katrina Marchant | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Bit of a highball maybe around the 6m mark.
|
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
- with
Katrina Marchant
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A phenomenal multi overlooking the ice capped mt cook to the right and hooker valley to the left. Great quality rock and fun climbing
|
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Ben Oahu Range | |||||||
17 | ★ Oma Rapeti | 500m | |||||
We climbed a more direct start, the blue line in the photo. The red line is the original line. Pitons were super handy for shoring up belays. Rockfall ahs significantly changed the upper slabs - they are not splitter and they were full of rubble. Our direct start was climbed at hard grade 18 - a run out chimney, into a perfect layback corner, then a steep pitch up an open groove/steep juggy, flakes, with massive exposure. The lower half of the route is exposed to significant overhead hazard - best to move efficiently! The rock quality is 50/50 ratio from solid greywacke to blocky choss.
|
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Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress | 800m | |||||
Climbed solo with Matt W, epic day out
|
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Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | |||||
In trail runners
|
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15 |
★ Let's Go Bush Walking
1
2
| 65m, 18 | |||||
We went bush walking
Rope got stuck
|
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Red Arete - with Matteo | 93m, 28 | |||||
Simu in 1 pitch, plus follow some random bolts above
|
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 ~15 |
★★ Shark Attack
- with
Graeme Jacobs
| 87m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best climb I've done at Sebastapol Bluffs
|
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
14 ~14 |
★★ Red Arete
- with
Graeme Jacobs
| 73m, 28 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic route and a must do for climbers of all levels
|
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Kingfisher Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Seriass | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun on top rope, would be spicy to lead.
|
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb. Anchors all over, our single 70m rope was plenty.
|
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Mako - with Ryan Siacci | 63m, 16 | |||||
Bulge moves on pitch two good fun on some moderately loose rock. Good times!
|
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki Boulders | |||||||
V1 | ★★ 10a | ★★ Very Good | |||||
had no pads lol
|
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Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Twin Cracks | |||||||
16 | ★★ Twin Cracks | 20m | Average | ||||
Pretty green and the gear was a little tough, didn't feel confident about as many pieces as I would've liked.
|
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Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Hooker Valley | |||||||
Mt Wakefield | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress - with Rob Watson | 800m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A classic jaunt
|
|||||||
3 | ★★★ Guideless Buttress - with Alex MacAdam | 800m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible route in a stunning location. Everything you want out of a long alpine ridge: vegetation, choss, rubble and unreal views. Brought a rope but ended up soloing, car to car in 7hours. Grade 8 rock.
|
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Lunar Wall | |||||||
20 | ★ Nicked Headwall - with Leonardo Correa | 45m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route except for the loose blocks in the overhang. Could be a beauty if cleaned
|
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18 |
★★ Nicked Extension
- with
Leonardo Correa
2
17
25
lead by
Leonardo Correa
We veered off to the left and did Nicked Headwall instead of continuing this one | 140m, 41 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome climb. The second-to-last pitch is run out. The last pitch is quite chossy, but allows you to abseil to Earnie/Bert on the Red Wall
|
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Red Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Mako - with Leonardo Correa | 63m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Do you like run-outs? Nice variety of shallow cracks, roof, and slab moves
|
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16 | ★★ Mako - with Leonardo Correa | 63m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice routes, the roof section was especially fun. The bolts zig-zag a bit, so be prepared for some heavy rope drag if going up in one go.
|
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | |||||||
Kingfisher Area | |||||||
16 | ★★ Old Soldiers Never Die - with Leonardo Correa | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What an amazing route. Such a fun variety of climbing techniques. Excellent protection
|
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17 | ★★ Keep Left Arête - with Leonardo Correa | 33m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome route with nice exposure and good rests in certain points
|
|||||||
Fri 2nd Dec 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Tasman Valley Willowherb Alpert | |||||||
V8 | ★★ Barrel Jack | ★★ Very Good | |||||
tried a year ago could not pull on... 1st V8!
|
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Mon 28th Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki River Bed Black Beard Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Walk the Plank | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
pumpy Traverse
|
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V5 | ★★ Peg Leg Sit | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
quality lowball
|
|||||||
Wed 23rd Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Big Rock Stream | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Polarity Sit | ★★ Very Good | |||||
rained off last 2 trips refined beta last trip and sent 1st go today
|
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Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Big Rock Stream | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Polarity | ★★ Very Good | |||||
4 Sessions small beta changes Sit will go next trip
|
|||||||
Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Tasman Valley Conquistador | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Liquid Courage | ★★ Very Good | |||||
fridge hugging goodness
|
|||||||
Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Tasman Valley HellBender | |||||||
V6 | ★ Bloc Party | ★ Good | |||||
1st v6 flash steep thin crimps
|
|||||||
Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Tasman Valley Lady of Leisure | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Lady of Leisure | ★★ Very Good | |||||
beautiful lip traverse
|
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Big Rock Stream | |||||||
V4 | ★ Crimp Cross (Crimp Cross Choss) | ★ Good | |||||
fingery start committing end
|
|||||||
Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Mt Cook Bouldering | |||||||
Pūkaki Boulders | |||||||
V0 | ★★ NO.10 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Alternative start between 10 and 11 and then across to 10 is a nice variation at similar grade. Kids made it about halfway up then baulked at height.
|
|||||||
V1 | ★★★ NO.11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Fun route on great rock. Really enjoyable.
|
|||||||
V3 | ★★ NO.12 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fun traverse
|