Routes in Ōtākou / Otago for selected grade

From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and over onto the ledge at the halfway mark. Straight up the corner onto the top of the pillar.

A superb route that has unfortunately succumbed to lichen.

Excellent slab, though runout to the anchor from the third bolt, be wary.

First climbed in the glory days of 1969. Retrobolted by Murray Judge.

Start by clipping the first two bolts of 'Seacliff' and then move across right onto the juggy wall and up the line.

Geoff Williamson 2021 FFA

Clip the first two bolts of 'Phoenix Rising' then move across left and up onto a narrow ledge. Bridge the corner and then move right and up a continuous line of jugs to the blocky roof. Steep, enjoyable climbing.

Dave Brash 2021 FFA

Up the via ferrata to the far left hand end. Up left into the corner. A quality line that deserves a good clean. A 60 metre rope will just reach the ground.

Second pitch has a fair bit of loose rock, please be aware.

Head up to the horizontal cracks through the scoop and out right to the anchors. Still a bit sandy at the very top.

Easy climbing to the blocky ledge to clip the 1st bolt. Balance to the 2nd and face climb to the anchors. Steve Carr, 1980. Dave Ireland and Calum Hudson, 2010....so named because it was heavy rain mixed with HAIL (Precipitation) when Dave was bolting it....and it is on the precipice of this face. Information off climbnz.org.nz

Head up towards Cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors Information off climbnz.org.nz

Stay left of the 1st bolt for an easy wander up the blocks, slightly harder to the right. Clip the second bolt and move up to the right of the veggie patch. Bit tricky over the veggie's but there is a nice fist jam awaiting up top to pull you through

Straight up through the cavy upper bits.

Head up the right fin. Spicer than it looks from the ground. Potentially due to suspect rock. Should clean up well

Begin in the left hand corner. Up the brown stone staircase to a high first bolt then move right onto the wall. Straight up to a belay in the hanging cave.

Straight up the wall. Originally grade 16 until a key jug ripped off.

Shares anchors with the leveller

Start up Flaky Cadbury and veer right instead of reaching left. Continue easily until the thin finish removes complacency.

Start on obvious sidepull/pinch on the middle-right of the slab boulder. Move up through the feet and reach a jug followed by an easy top-out.

Another new route at The Arches at Doctors' Point. A second pitch to 'Black Slab', (the first route to be established in the area in 1998). Move left and follow the weakness up and right. 30 metres to ground with a bit of rope stretch. Also a handy 2nd ring half way down to do a 2nd rapel. FFA Steve Carr/ Mauro Donati. Grade 17, 10 bolts.

On the right hand end of the Delta Slab area at the Arches. Follow the bolts onto a series of hanging slabs. Up the blocky corner to finish high up and left of the pine tree. Murray Judge 2016

Heads up into the V groove.

Some interesting moves (not to mention interesting rock). Keep your eyes peeled for the volcanic glass intrusions.

First route from the left of the Coalition Crag. Starts with a nice cruise up and right to the first anchor. From there it gets more crimpy with good footing heading back left and ends with a small traverse. The 2nd anchor is more exposed but well placed with the last pitch almost directly upwards. From the top rappel down to the 2nd anchor and from there to the ground.

Arguably the climb of the crag - consistently good climbing to the adrenaline-inducing (though well-protected) crux. The original start goes Comici-style direct to the base of the hanging corner above the Mandrake ramp. A nice alternative is diagonally up R (11a) from the top of the big detached block. After arranging your runners and your head, launch out into the exposed hanging corner above the roof – it’s not all over once you get into it.

The bottom section of this climb is currently not in good condition - however the summer will hopefully dry it up. Car Crash takes you on a journey up and over the cemented blocks of lava flow and into the groove above. Take care with the odd loose hold in the mid section. Up the groove, move across left and prepare yourself for a cruxy finale!

The L slanting groove has been retro bolted. This route heads right after the 3rd bolt of WYGTH, across the face to a golden left facing corner. Up this, trending back left on jugs to the anchors as for WYGTH. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture. Source: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/mapoutahi/main-eldorado-walls/golden-showers

Route does not exist. New route is Bronco

Best climbed in 2 pitches.

The direct start (from below the ledge) is a grade 18 and adds about 3m.

P1 - 15 - 12m - 7 bolts (or 18/15/8 for the direct start)

P2 - 17 - 15m - 5 bolts

First bolted route right of Beaten into Submission.

Right-leaning crack

Finishes left to Hapu Crack or to Suicide Possum

Could not locate the bolts for this climb. Possibly gone?

First climb to the left. Start with glued holds and up the steep face

Start by climbing up a steep section right of an arete then up the tricky face.

A fairly consistent climb that is better than it looks

Start left of the boulder. Clip first 2 bolts to access the head wall. Watch out for loose rock.

Climb two wide ledges to scale the head wall, a last tricky move like a sting in the tail allows you to reach the belay.

Starts from the anchors of Crack Crack. Move 2m right to the anchors of The Game, then clip 2 bolts and follow the crack.

Bolted line just left of the right-trending crack.

Left side of the slab.