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Routes in Ōtākou / Otago for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 190 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Southern Wall
25 Millennium Hopes

FA: Mike Simpson, 2000

Sport 18m
25 G-Dub

FA: Nathan Campbell, 2008

Sport 15m, 5
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Bolt City
25 Capricious

To the left of Jeremys Route.

Beware, the top has many loose blocks, I don't recommend climbing this until they have been cleared out.

FA: Mike Simpson

Sport 12m, 5
25 Twenty Twenty

To the right of labours of love. Finishes at the DBB at the top of the slab.

FA: Bill Bradshaw

Sport 15m, 7
25 The Solitary Vice

FA: Luke Newnham, 1986

Sport 15m, 4
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Main Wall Right Side
25 Never Enough

FA: Andy Milne, 1991

Sport 14m, 4
25 Perfect Skin

FA: Andy Milne, 1991

Sport 14m, 4
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Avian Wall
25 Qualia

Start as for the great migration. At the 2nd bolt head directly up through the slightly overhung face. 2 distinguishing technical yet powerful cruxes.

Note: The first crux can be made easier by veering left from the bolt line and utilising the holds on the face to the left of the corner. This makes the grade a 23/24.

For the full experience use the face where the bolts are!

FA: James Smith, 2023

Sport 15m
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Entrance Boulders
V5 Jenga

Three stacked boulders up the left side of the entrance boulders. Sit start low at the bottom corner of the middle boulder. Use heel-toe cam, jugs and knee-bar to reach crimp before a tricky mantle topout

FA: Gabriel R., 20 Feb

Boulder
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Archie's Playground
V5/6 Manicure

Hard start on small and sharp holds in the middle of the wall. One mover dyno to mantle top out.

FA: Mischa van B., 2023

Boulder
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Sunnyside Boulder
V5 The Running Man

Fingery stand start at centre of the boulder on left crimp and right pinch. Tricky first move to good hold followed by a spicy top out.

FA: Garbriel R.

Boulder
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Cave One
V5 #2. Inside roof arch Boulder
V5 #5. The terrifying bridging exit Boulder
V5 #6. Full traverse of inner cave Boulder
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Cave Two
V5 # 14. Low traverse inside Boulder
V5 # 15. High traverse inside Boulder 6m
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Wharewerawera / Long Beach Long Beach Bouldering Cave Three
V5 # 28. Low traverse Boulder 3m
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Lovers Leap
25 Balls Of String
Unknown 40m
25 Parallel Universe
Mixed trad 31m, 10
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Port Chalmers Quarry
25 Ren Sport
Ōtepoti / Dunedin Mapoutahi Eldorado Wall
25 The Cruffiton Touch

The crimpy and powerful face behind the detached boulder. Indulge in gastons and sidepulls to an easy finish

FA: Jonathon Clearwater, 2004

Sport 16m, 8
Hulk Hogan Bouldering
V5 No. 10

The starting jug has broken at some point.

Boulder
V5 Inversions Boulder 4m
V5 No. 21 Boulder 3m
V5 No. 24 Boulder
V5 8mm Boulder
V5 Livewire Boulder
V5 No. 36 Boulder
V5 No. 39 Boulder
V5 Barbed Wire Boulder
V5 What Becomes Of The Broken Hold Boulder
V5 No. 47 Boulder
V5 No. 59 Boulder
V5 No. 60 Boulder 5m
V5 Special K Boulder
V5 No. 63 Boulder
V5 No. 72 Boulder
V5 No. 73 Boulder
V5 No. 74 Boulder
Island Cliff Valley Hulk Hogan Wall
25 Barbie gets banged Sport
Tāhuna / Queenstown East Queenstown Gorge Road Main Wall
25 Beaten into Submission

Unrelenting mixed line.

FA: Aaron Ford, 2014

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Tāhuna / Queenstown Lower Remarkables Hawk Wall Main Wall
25 Falcon Paranoia

Climb the obvious corner just right of Hors de Combat. Shares 8th and 9th bolt of L'Effet Papillon then tends to the left.

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2010

Sport 28m, 6
25 Acid Test

Steep climbing through the overhang just left of the obvious wide crack.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2010

Sport 17m, 6
Tāhuna / Queenstown Lower Remarkables Drift Bay The Boneyard
25 Coup de Grace

FA: Guillaume Charton, 2008

Sport 9m, 3
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Project Wall
25 Eat Yourself Fitter

Route with Permadraws - big moves on big holds

FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1999

Sport 22m, 8
25 Zone d'Avalanche

FA: Pat Deavoll, 1999

Mixed trad 30m, 5
25 Xenalasia

Xenelasia was the practice in ancient Doric Crete and Lacedæmonia of expelling foreigners deemed injurious to the public welfare. Shares start as BOTT. Veer right from ledge just to the right of BOTT. Slither your way up on small holds.

FA: Ian Binnie, 1997

Sport 27m, 13
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Eweniverse Wall
25 Smoking Barrels

FA: Aaron Ford, 2002

Sport 20m, 8
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Homage Wall
25 Pierre

Establish in the lower boulder problem and power through shouldery moves to the lip. A traverse right will lead you to a sting in the tail to clip the chains.

FA: Laurent Simoni, 2000

Sport 10m, 5
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Hidden Wall
25 Emma Louise

FA: Ian Binnie, 1998

Sport 15m, 6
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Bush Wall
25 Tasmanian Devil

FA: Laurent Simoni, 2000

Sport 12m, 4
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Wow City
25 D,D for Girls

FA: Ian Binnie, 1997

Sport 18m, 7
25 Yesterday

FA: Michal Karnik, 2012

Sport 22m, 6
25 Today

FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2001

Sport 11m, 3
25 The Wow Factor

FA: Tony Burnell, 2009

Sport 15m, 6
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek North Side Rainbow Wall
25 Magic Karma Ride

FA: Rupert Gardiner, 2002

Sport 8m, 3
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek South Side Zippity Zappity Wall
25 Resurrection

FA: Aaron Ford, 2008

Sport 25m, 8
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek South Side Harold's Wall
25 Perry's Other Crack

FA: Perry Beckham, 1999

Sport 20m, 10
25 Boulder Fest

Start right of Perry's Crack.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2010

Sport 12m, 6
25 Saruman's Disciple

FA: Arnaud Forest, 2014

Sport 20m, 6
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek South Side Main Wall
25 TNT

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

Sport 15m, 7
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek South Side The Pumphouse
25 Curvaceous

FA: Ian Binnie, 1997

Sport 8m, 5
Tāhuna / Queenstown Wye Creek South Side The Pale Wall
25 Chasing the Dragon

FA: Tony Burnell, 2007

Sport 15m, 6
Tāhuna / Queenstown South Wye South Wye Boulder
25 Nanana Dave Can't Do It

FA: Dave Bunn & Scott Standen, 2007

Sport 15m, 4
Tāhuna / Queenstown South Wye Broken Heart Wall
25 Two Feet and a Heart Beat

FA: Karl Schimanski & Keith Brown, 2013

Sport 32m, 9
Tāhuna / Queenstown Chinaman's Bluff China Wall
25 L'Orage

FA: Gordy Watson

Sport 20m, 9
25 Fibre Recruitment

FA: Gordy Watson

Sport 20m, 7
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines John Boulder
V5 Frozen Fingers
Boulder
V5 John Boulder South Face 8
Boulder
V5 Way of the Dog
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Microchip
V5 Sidewinder

Sidepulls straight up the highest part of the North Face.

Boulder
V5 Vala F...
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Virus
V5 Virility

SS on middle jugs, straight through steepest part.

Boulder
V5 Virus North Face 15
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Tolkien
V5 Pocket Rocket
Boulder
V5 Tolkien
Boulder
V5 JRR
Boulder
V5 Deserve to Bleed
Boulder
V5 Tolkien West Face 18
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Tussock
V5 Tussock West Face 1
Boulder
V5 Magnefien
Boulder
V5 Rafalassia
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines The Wave
V5 The Wave South Face 11
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Mushroom
V5 Psycilobin

Standing start on crimp just right of corner V3

Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines G Spot
V5 Sieborg
Boulder
V5 N
Boulder
V5 G Spot West Face 16
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Alien Head
V5 Alien Head West Face 5
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Ninth Boulder
V5 Ninth Boulder South Face 14
Boulder
V5 Mucky's Torment
Boulder
V5 Nail of Jesus
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Birds Nest
V5 Birds Nest North Face 4
Boulder
V5 Birds Nest North Face 7
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Lightning Bolt
V5 Lightning Bolt North Face 4
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Slab a Dab Dab
V5 Slab a Dab Dab East Face 6
Boulder
V5 Edifix
Boulder
V5 Slab a Dab Dab West Face 15
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Jardines Above and Beyond
V5 Above and Beyond North Face 1
Boulder
V5 Above and Beyond South Face 6
Boulder
Tāhuna / Queenstown Hogan Boulder Arrowtown
V5 V5 Boulder

Showing 1 - 100 out of 190 routes.

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