Ascents in Waitaha / Canterbury having Beta

Best climb I've done at Sebastapol Bluffs

Linked 2nd and 3rd pitch as one.

Spotty weather. Got as far as the top of the bolts on P2 before it began to rain again. Escaped to the El Nino P1 bolted anchor about 5m left, brought Grant up and waited for Dave on El Nino, then we bailed.

Back for another attempt. P1 quite nervy with sparse gear, then we headed straight up into the hand crack linkup as one 55m pitch. Very nice hand crack at about grade 16, considerable rope drag by the end. At the terrace we contemplated continuing up the El Nino arete, but it was becoming very blowy and route finding a little uncertain, decided not to have an epic with the rope pull from the top. Got one rope stuck on the rap from the terrace anyway, luckily our combined bodyweight freed it before having to reascend on the other. Don't thread your rope though the old maillons.

A phenomenal multi overlooking the ice capped mt cook to the right and hooker valley to the left. Great quality rock and fun climbing

so many underclings to pick from

Really quite fun! I surprised myself getting through the boulder problem, and had to find a good rest in the niche before committing to the exit moves. Probably my hardest onsight?

Don’t know if it’s because this line is short, soft, or suited me well, but I’m still chuffed with the onsight.

Short boulder problem start with one hard crimp.

this problem suited me. campus on edge to rockover. wicked!

first V5 onsight

high-step/balance

good pockets to slopey topout

powerful moves from ground, pitty about grass in one hold, lose top scary finish

awesome problem - shame about the dirty pocket

big move to pocket, high top-out

pretty cool problem - safe downclimb too

nice mantle, maybe hold broke made it easier??

maybe hold broke, easy for 5

Pretty good all the way to the top

weird moves into scoop

nice slab problem. Really V4(?), but there is a 50 feet drop just L of the climb which you could fall down if you came off it. x2

grunt up. V3?

Easy 5

Mega steep jug haul to an overhanging stem corner. Simply awesome!

Better than expected, and characteristic Britten: a low boulder problem leads to a jug haul. Still, steeper than some above the crux.

Cracking moves traversing under and over the roof, deserves at least a star!

Cool pockets

Classic harder mantle.

Excellent climbing, good the whole way and would be very sustained without the rest ledge midway. A soft touch at 25, but great nonetheless.

Melting point is 25 too, right?!

Doable without gear, a bit runout at the top but no biggie. Long moves between good edges.

surprising ly solid horn feature at second bolt. line is cramped on headwall, might veer onto Beer hunter holds

First 24 onsight, cool

Better than expected roped boulder problem, but oh so sharp! Single bolt anchor.

Chuffed with the onsight on this one, as the crux is quite tricky and hard to read. Uncharacteristic climbing for Britten.

Had to fight for this one at the end of the day. Nearly blew it at the top but managed to mantle out as my hands pried themselves open.

A bit harder to read than its neighbour, and equal in difficulty.

Wow, I really rate this climb. Consistently fun throughout.

Sustained slabbing with no obvious crux, but goey nearly the whole way.

Bit of a stout warm up, but flowed pretty easily. A quality line!

Draws on onsight, equipped from SJ. This route really exceeded my expectations. Super fun and flowy movement up the arête.

For Britten, I reckon this route is a classic at the grade. Consistently interesting and good rock quality. Only problem was the profligate ticking of holds. Since I only used 25% of them, I’m still claiming the onsight. Buy a brush people, and bloody use it!

Probably 22 the way I did it, going left at the finish. Rather contrived not to though, as the ledges naturally lead left. Once and done!

The crux crimp came off in my hand but managed to stay on and send. Dirty, but decently fun, especially in the upper crack.

A bit wandery from side to side to figure out the sequence, but reasonably logical. Needs another bolt at the top to be a proper sport climb.