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Main Cliff Mostly Sport climbing 12 routes in cliff

Rock: Deteriorating rock quality

When I was climbing the route (monkey in the jungle) yesterday, I ripped a 80kg rock flake off the wall between the 5 and 6 bolt. Luckily I didn't clip the 6th bolt before the rock gave way because my rope would of been cut or damaged. I didn't put much pressure on the rock also. Climb with care at frog pond and check rock quality before climbing.

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Created 3 years ago - Edited 2 years ago
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Description

Biggest wall with the longest routes

Access issues inherited from Frog Pond

MUST contact the landowners before entering the farm to obtain permission. Ring Ben and Bex Stubbs on 07 8787426. The property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such a property. Access is at own risk.

Ethic inherited from Frog Pond

Remember you are on private land. So no dogs, camping or disturbing farm animals. Make sure you take all your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it. Leave all gates as you found them.

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Routes

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1
17 ★★ Sweet Araceli Sport 15m, 6

Starts under obvious nose. Head left to horizontal break. Head right then finish up the face.

FA: Josh Taylor, John Newby & Lester Moore, 1999

2
17 Walking on the Moon Trad 15m

Start as for SA but upon reaching the arete keep traversing right to the corner then up to the roof. Head right along handcrack onto exposed arete. Good pro but watch rope drag.

FA: John Newby & Kieran McKay, 1999

3
27 ★★ Flight of the Frogs Sport 16m, 6

Start under the nose, stay right and head through the roof. Then head back laft through an easy mantle onto the slab. Finish as for SA (shares last bolt and anchor).

FA: Daniel Krippner, 16 Jul 2014

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4
27 ★★ Cochise Sport 16m, 6

Start left of BB and head through roofs.

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Feb 2020

5
23 ★★ Big Boy Sport 18m, 7

Follow the crack to a horizontal break. Up to a huge jug and fun finish.

FA: John Newby, 2003

6
25 ★★ Dark Horizons Sport 18m, 7

Pumpy climbing to a boulder crux.

FA: Kerry Crawford, 2004

7
21 ★★★ French Cuisine Sport 18m, 7

Originally trad and started from the left. The more direct bolted start is a little harder. Climb through the crack system to a large groove. Awesome finish in exposed position.

FA: John Newby & Josh Taylor, 1999

8
24 ★★ Monkey in the Jungle Sport 18m, 7

Warning Rock: Big rock fall!!

Start up cracks. Nice climbing on underclings up to flake. Big move up to crux holds. Exciting finish in exposed position.

FA: John Newby, 2003

9
23 ★ Chk Chk Boom Sport 12m, 4

Powerful start (crux) leads to a nice finish under tiny roof.

FA: Kerry Crawford, 2004

10
24 ★★ Feral Tendancies Sport 22m, 8

On the far right of the main wall. The name rings true as does the nature of some of the moves.

FA: John Newby, 2001

11
15 Verde Sunset Sport 12m, 3

A nice chimney.

FA: Kelly Chiusano, 2002

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12
25 ★★★ Mutation in my Genes Sport 12m, 5

Amazing sustained climbing on awesome rock. Sloper edges lead to a technical crux. Veer left to finish.

FA: John Newby, 2002

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17 ★★ Sweet Araceli
21 ★★★ French Cuisine
25 ★★★ Mutation in my Genes

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Alex Popinga on ★★★ French Cuisine 21 - Alex on French Cuisine

on ★★★ Mutation in my Genes 25 - Alexei on Mutation in my Genes

Gary Dobson on ★★ Monkey in the Jungle 24 - 20210123_145632.jpg

Sat 29 Apr
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