Ascents in Mangaokewa

Very bad fourth attempt. Cut feet. Didn't even clip the second bolt. Feeling weaker.

Fifth and last attempt. Too weak. Clipped the second bolt but didn't even get up to left crimp.

Warm up.

Second attempt was better. Stuck the left crimp, two moves below the side-pull jug above third clip, but failed to do the bump of left hand up to left of the third bolt.

Third and best attempt of the day. Stuck the left crimp and got the bump, but didn't go straight to the side-pull and came down again.

Flash attempt. But had to rest while trying to work out the clipping stance for fourth bolt. After that it joins Punk Rockers. Nice climb. A bit tricky, but should get it in one or two more attempts.

First attempt of the day. Clipped the second bolt but then didn't know how to get up to third bolt and had to hang on the rope after trying a few options. Worked out a sequence and got to the right hand side-pull jug for the third and fourth clips. Topping out is straightforward from there.

No problem with this route this time easy at the start, followed by a couple pinches (which are totally fine if you don't overgrip the crap out of them like I did last time!) And then the top part which has a juggy sidepull for the left hand, really nice crimp above it and slightly to the right for the right hand, and jug fairly far left over the ledge

Made it to the top and leading this time Bouldery start with jugs, need to keep tension in core and sort the feet out. Clip the 2nd bolt from chalky crimp bar, then good crimp (juggy) up with the left hand, followed by slopey crimp directly above it with the right hand, sort the feet out, then left hand shitty crimp far out left followed by left hand bump to sidepull directly above and then quickly get the right hand up to sidepull jug for clipping the next bolt. Then a fairly easy top, don't forget shark fin jug on far right before the anchor!

Fun climb following the crack for an easy start, traverse back onto face at second clip by using solid right crimp with solid left sidepull directly above, moving feet onto face (or left heel hook for taller people!) to slap up to decent right crimp, then another slap up to juggy crack just behind the bulge on the right to clip 3rd bolt. Then onto and over the bulge (I did the "Megos mount" on the bulge for a shake of the arms like Alexei haha) and fairly smooth sailing to the anchor, mostly juggy and good slopers

Wet and slimey rock at top seems pretty rotten still enjoyable movement

Warm up route

Short and sharp, felt pretty good for first time on limestone

Easy until top of arete, very hard to gain ledge.

Super fun slab

Chose wrong line, move all the way out onto stalactites, very hard anchor clip, might have just been because of wrong line.

Doable but got pumped out

Haven't done much on this one yet, bouldery start which I think is probably more doable for me than "Lunar Leopard" (also 21) because of the latter's sharp pockets and strongman pullup move, but will see next time. Only got to the first bolt, which was pre-clipped, from the bottom, but descended the route on toprope to have a look at the top part which is probably about a grade 18 in isolation. Top isn't hard except when you're pumped out from the bottom!

Kinda lost my tryhard motivation after sending "When Cavers Go Climbing" and chose to rest on the rope after clipping the fourth bolt off the "book"-like pinch lol. Shouldn't be too hard to send next time; the top is easy as once you have the beta. Solid jug to the right from the fifth bolt, solid crimp above it. Move feet so you have the left hip into wall and reach up left to next solid hold, again shift feet and reach over the top to the left a bit for a decent jug to pull yourself over the ledge

Half-hearted attempt at this one just to feel the first moves. Failed to clip the second bolt.

Climbed to the lap bolt and clipped it. Then mucked around looking for a sequence to the lip and eventually hung on the rope. Then topped out and on the way down ticked some holds with chalk for the final sequence.

Sent it cleanly second attempt of the day Nice climb!

Had a quick look at this one since I was up there. Only clipped the first two permadraws and then found the crimp and decided to try it another time

Warm up.

Super fun route, overhung at the bottom but can slap up to a jug off starting slopers (I have to "slap up" to it anyway, being short) and then clip second bolt off "book"-like slopey pinch below it. I then use some intermediates before the jug with the right hand to clip the third bolt (mate Fabio just reaches up to it, fairly tall reach), then match jug so as to free the right hand for slopers as I move feet across into the dihedral wall. Again, I use slopey intermediates to the big jug used to clip the fourth bolt, which are made more comfortable by careful stemming. Then move back onto the face on the left, which is still a bit tricky but super solid jug to clip fifth bolt. I rested a bit on that jug, chalking and shaking out the forearms, before moving a bit right to pull onto the ledge (a bit slopey again, but assisted with high right foot can get decent right hand and mantle with the left hand). Then easy as to the anchor, as it shares the last bolt with the grade 15 French Ethics

Set this up for Aiden

Red point! I wasn’t really thinking of sending this. But after I executed the move to the corner for the clipping stance on the second bolt, I just kept going. Took a nice rest mounted up on the bulge between second and third bolts before getting on with it and clipping the anchor. Happy with this but it was a bit of a messy send late in the day and I want to do it a bit more smoothly when I am fresh.

First attempt of the day. Couldn’t work out the traverse up to corner for second clip so came back down for another clean attempt.

Red point! Clean send on my second attempt of the day. Had the beta down and didn’t worry too much about which intermediates to use. I just went from clipping stance to clipping stance with whatever was good enough to move through on. Very happy with that!

First attempt of the day. Clipped the third bolt and then kicked around in the dihedral trying to work out how to get up to clip the fourth bolt and eventually rested on the rope to work the rest of the route.

Warm up

Ohhh, I was so close on my second attempt! Just took too long not trusting my sequence and burnt myself out :o I will get this next time!

I am surprised how good this one felt being I was feeling quite weak and dizzy at the start of the day and I had already tried hard on the previous two climbs. I got most of the way up this before going the wrong way (for me) to get up on the ledge. I just had one rest and then traversed right to tackle the ledge from a different angle.

Really annoyed I didn't onsight this. Put the gear up to the last bolt but then felt too pumped and (unusually for me) I didn't just go for it (which sometimes works) but instead climbed back to bolt and asked for a take while I reassessed the final moves. I will get this the next time for sure.

My first attempt at this climb. I sat on the rope after clipping the first bolt and then again further up. I am reasonably happy to top it out with two rests on the first go. I think the direct route from the ground on thin crimps might actually be best just because body position would be better when arriving at the crux to reach right for the corner after first clip.

Warm up