Ascents in Mangaokewa as Red point

Warm up.

No problem with this route this time easy at the start, followed by a couple pinches (which are totally fine if you don't overgrip the crap out of them like I did last time!) And then the top part which has a juggy sidepull for the left hand, really nice crimp above it and slightly to the right for the right hand, and jug fairly far left over the ledge

Fun climb following the crack for an easy start, traverse back onto face at second clip by using solid right crimp with solid left sidepull directly above, moving feet onto face (or left heel hook for taller people!) to slap up to decent right crimp, then another slap up to juggy crack just behind the bulge on the right to clip 3rd bolt. Then onto and over the bulge (I did the "Megos mount" on the bulge for a shake of the arms like Alexei haha) and fairly smooth sailing to the anchor, mostly juggy and good slopers

Sent it cleanly second attempt of the day Nice climb!

Warm up.

Super fun route, overhung at the bottom but can slap up to a jug off starting slopers (I have to "slap up" to it anyway, being short) and then clip second bolt off "book"-like slopey pinch below it. I then use some intermediates before the jug with the right hand to clip the third bolt (mate Fabio just reaches up to it, fairly tall reach), then match jug so as to free the right hand for slopers as I move feet across into the dihedral wall. Again, I use slopey intermediates to the big jug used to clip the fourth bolt, which are made more comfortable by careful stemming. Then move back onto the face on the left, which is still a bit tricky but super solid jug to clip fifth bolt. I rested a bit on that jug, chalking and shaking out the forearms, before moving a bit right to pull onto the ledge (a bit slopey again, but assisted with high right foot can get decent right hand and mantle with the left hand). Then easy as to the anchor, as it shares the last bolt with the grade 15 French Ethics

Set this up for Aiden

Red point! I wasn’t really thinking of sending this. But after I executed the move to the corner for the clipping stance on the second bolt, I just kept going. Took a nice rest mounted up on the bulge between second and third bolts before getting on with it and clipping the anchor. Happy with this but it was a bit of a messy send late in the day and I want to do it a bit more smoothly when I am fresh.

Red point! Clean send on my second attempt of the day. Had the beta down and didn’t worry too much about which intermediates to use. I just went from clipping stance to clipping stance with whatever was good enough to move through on. Very happy with that!

Warm up

Warm up

Sent! (Fourth attempt over two trips) I had the beta back in memory for my second attempt of the day, 25 minutes after the first. Did it quite easily and very happy with that

classic warm up

One of the lower tier favourites. Up the crack line, left then over the lip to the chains.

Nice to be warming up on this one and it feeling easy

Absolutely Classic of Kewa, Soft for a 26 as none of the moves are particularly hard. Sustained 25 would be more accurate none the less an epic route. Recommend this for anyones first 26 ;-)

polished

Epic until the final moves in the gross moss!!!

Solid 17 with nice crimpy and juggy holds, using arete on the left. Two nice side pulls at the top make for a fun gaston onto the ledge - or use any of the other holds there, alternatively I did hangdog my first attempt though, as the rock was so cold it made my fingers numb and freaked me out a little lol

I slipped off the dusty slopey ledge right at the anchors on the first attempt- doh! - but if you go slightly to the left of the last bolt and look over the top there is a nice rock for either pinching or underclinging to pull yourself over Nice stem at the start makes it good for warming up!

Classic. More Tonsai than Tonsai.

Smooth. Third trip working it.