Ascents in North America by James

Don't do stupid gaston match. Go straight up, headed for chockstone jug.

2nd go. hidden crimp rail above mantle.

dirty, chossy, loose. maybe revisit, probably work other climbs on wall first though.

tronsight

2nd try

Failed onsight attempt, 1 lap on toprope, came back and sent on lead.

fell during lead onsight attempt. Toprope send.

onsighted with easy start, repeated with full value start

swing around to the left side of arete, off of good pair jugs. meathook over top of left jug with right hand. delicate

Two hard moves for crux. Psuedo finger lock with left hand, get right foot jam in obvious V below right hand.

2 tries. worked all moves on first try. starts easy, gets harder. very sequential just under the lip

fucking wacky and absurd. only gear needed is 2x #2s, 2 long slings for chockstones, and maybe a blue totem for ramp. bring small gear up to .5s or .75s if doing vertical chimney exit, no e tra gear if doing exit past big sharks tooth

probably 10 tries over 5 sessions, and then sent while hanging draws on warmup/beta burn.

fun climbing. sporty, runout, heady.

very hard for grade. incredible line, great climbing, bold. feel like an oldschool hardman on it. accidentally did the 5.8/+ variation by climbing the wide crack on 3rd pitch. for standard route, traverse right to the corner after the chimney, look for a piton

accidentally linked into one long pitch with an 80. too much rope drag, build belay in biggest pod before the small roof

80m reaches summit from tree belay

don't rap the whole route, rap into gully. single 80m doesn't reach from 3rd to 2nd anchor

1st try of day, 2nd try total. finished right variant. worked moves for left finish, ticky tacky two move traverse to layback. gear in order: #3 w/ runner #2 w/ runner black totem bolt blue totem .3 .4 blue or black totem bolt bolt mussy hook anchor

2nd go. ripped open finger in first finger crack, crimp traverse slick with blood. beautiful line

2nd go. runout slab for topout, heady and fun.