Ascents in Pianokrakken

One to come back for

Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them

A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack

Good sequences following Dave

With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D

A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.

Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?

Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!

with Benno, first route

Reachy crux for the short person. Unable to reach the finger jam from the highest feet, so had to crank on some slopy crimp to make it possible. I’d suggest 6+/7- for those under 5,4 feet. A real quality route

Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!

Short rope practice / Vågarisset recovery session

30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing

With a pre-placed piece. Great route

Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back

My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.