Ascents in Oceania as Pink point by Vanessa Wills

Rpt.

So cold my back was seizing up after the big drive yesterday. Crack gloves are cool. Time to call it a day.

Pretty pumped compared to top roping it, even without having to fiddle too much with gear.

Used the preplaced gear, though the red cam in the hand jam is probably better placed after getting to ledge. Most gear straight forward but the two crux bits feel fiddly.

Nice to get this off the list, coming back a second day with the beta fresh was worth it. Having the crux wire placed was good for the mind, the rest of the gear is quite straightforward.

Finally got back to figure out a way to reach the flake. Never used so many toe hooks on a grade 20 face route before. Desperate at 167 cm with negative ape. Harder than the 22 pitch.

Easier than a bischoff flinders 23! Had a go last year, clearly done more crimping this year and got it 3rd go today once I sorted a sequence.

Fifth go overall, a less humid day helped so I reverted to the tiny crimps into a hand jam throw as I could not reach the holds around the arete whatever I tried at the crux.

Not a huge fan, mainly because of the bolt placements and the rope trajectory

Took a bit of cleaning. Unfortunately Robin and John’s bolts are within clipping distance in the lower half, though the crux and above is pure trad, mostly small to medium wires. The old single bolt needs replacing and anchors would be good. will add to the to do list. 23/24 maybe. It too k a number of tries to sort out

Places were dripping that I’ve never seen drip, but this was not too spoogy considering. 2 laps.

Nice start, good rests. Not too hard, after start. Could be 23. A long sling on 3rd bolt was comforting

Rpt on lead after the rebolt , Dave had placed the cams

Second go, missed a key hold first go and pumped out

Personal grade, bloody hard to onsight, and very reachy to get to the key hold on arete at 3rd bolt, took me quite a few attempts to stick that one move as I couldn't quite get the pocket

Preplaced the draws, freeing a hand to clip felt quite insecure

Kind of slippery, but nice rock and good moves. No snakes seen.

Good luck if you are short going straight up. ( hint for short, lay off the crack for a move to get to the break)

Also could add 2 grades. Requires a tenuous pinky jam and left toe hook followed by sideways dyno- none of which is necessary if you are Dave’s height. Shame the rock is so flaky

Abseiled in the second day to put the draws back on with a long anchor one. Varied climbing in outstanding location. A convenient route for the grandkids to cheer on from the beach

Good luck if you are short at this grade. I had to mcdougall 50 cm left after going up to clip bolt. It would be a good route if at home.

Rpt. 24 if starting on the obvious holds to the left of the bolts. Nice alternatives for the short if the main pocket is out of reach

Greasy mosquito ridden gully fall potential

Feels 24 minimum if you are short. Was using “holds” that don’t look like they get much use. Huge reach, and not to the good one.

Second go. I had to jump which is not my style.

Did on Montys gear with a bit of a supplement. Previously seconded.

Rpt, did it on dave’s gear, but with my own shuffling of #5 s

Enjoying the 26 pieces of pro I had placed on the red point attempt

Rpt, long runners as bolt spacing is terrible

First go today, took way too long clipping crux draw, but managed to get back to knee bar and recover

Short crux, got to one move from jug on theonsight on first go but couldn’t clip, hardest part was clippingthe draw second go with no feet. I nearly pumped off.

Second shot, to first set of anchors. Nice to have a long draw on second go. I sat on the crux a bit trying different methods first go, and went back to how I first tried it. Quite tricky. Rest of route is nice. Not interested in chipped routes, so didn’t try top, and didn’t use the apparent chip at the low crux.

A climb in 2 halves, the top slab crux being quite fingery and committing

Clearly I have improved at techno slabs. Did it quite different to Dave. 2 good boulder problems really.

Team success. Pink pointed on Dave's gear. A RP burn will have to wait for next year. Pre habilitation time is over. It's been a great month.

Second go, after a scary onsight attempt due to spaced bolts. Hard moves at second bolt especially if lacking a big wingspan. Placed a very long sling on the fifth bolt.

This would easily be a 22 at frog. Failed again on the redpoint and then quivered for an age before doing the loose mantle to exit. Needs anchors

Finally ticked this V5 boulder problem if you aren't tall.

Finally, good friction today and no pesky tall people making me doubt my sequence

Trench warfare. Dave did this much easier by putting his back to the water which didn't work for me. I faced the water and did some extreme bridging and thrutching. And sorted it out by about the 15th attempt, and probably won't be able to walk tomorrow.

On the last go of the day after changing sequence each time. Nice and technical and trickier than appearances

Took about 30 goes to stick the bouldery start sequence. I figure if it was down the hill it would get v4. Yes there was a snake off to the left near the top. Needed a lot of brushing to be able to hold the slopes.

Hung the draws and gave it a good clean first go. Did second go. A bit surprised it wasn't clean as no rain for a while, and I found it softer than other Berowra 24 s. Some good moves.

Had to engage some mindfulness to be calm enough for this balancy tick. Totally not in the zone. Might be a bit easier with my sequence, but it can make up for the rest of the sandbags here.

Add about 4 grades if short, had to try the crux about 6 times before I could come up with a sequence that worked

Found this less reachy than PB, had the start protected

Ouch, everything was the wrong distance apart