Ascents in Oceania by Ben Aves

Got lost on the headwall and pulled on the draw for a second to find the next hold, blowing the onsight

Awesome sustained climbing on the headwall with no definite crux. Burn out my forearms on the flash attempt and dogged up, keen to come back

Top was soaked so I finished exiting out the end of the prow which goes at maybe V8

Probably not for me

Classic V8 boulder on a rope

Underrated, one of the best routes here and nearly always dry.

I had a go taking the left section at the break which goes at probably a grade harder? Didn't do it in the end though.

Nice, unusual

Struggling

Hard for the grade!

Quickly checking out the moves, all done individually, keen to come back

Lesson learnt; don't use Tom's beta unless you're as strong as Tom

Placing draws in ridiculous wind (add 5 grades)

Hard for the grade. Finish will make you say WTF. Still excellent though

Lovely

Wet

Excellent dynamic climbing, underrated

Great roped V8. Felt easy on the flash attempt but ran out of power quickly. Looking forward to coming back with a fresh pair of forearms.

Short fun

Rad! All moves done except crux, need to come back with more focus next time.

Great little problem, all moves felt easy but I couldn't get the proper send without an annoying dab or foot popping off. Left it to try deep blue sea instead.

Maybe the best at the crag! 2nd go

Always Madge

Boulderer almost pumps out on jugs after the crux.

Great fun working out the low problem, went from feeling impossible to easyish with the right beta.

Great fun

First FA :,)

Beautiful climbing, 9 moves all about the same level of hard, sadly loses a star for being slightly contrived and as some of rock is a bit crumbly - just stay away from the obvious soft sandstone bits and its a classic.

There might be potential to link further into the roof to the right but I expect that will go much harder indeed...

Penultimate crimp was seeping badly at the time of ascent

Short and soft but excellent

Classic sculpted sandstone

Great moves just needs some good conds and a bit of luck sticking the dyno...

There is SO much chalk on the traverse and very few actual holds WTF

Bouldery action the whole way, underrated. Destroyed skin & forearms finding beta, looking forward to come back.

Absolute ripper, the classic status is well deserved.

For any boulderers like me wondering if they should give this a go, my guesstimate breakdown is: Spicy V3ish first move into some jugs, into a good kneebar rest (hands off depending on your leg anatomy), then, back to back with zero rest, a V4/5 first crux into a V3 into a V4/5 second crux and finally a V2ish exit.

As one may guess, the difficulty is not from any of the moves, but linking them all together without pumping out. Even the final V2 exit is fallable if your forearms aren't cooperating.

A little bit of power endurance goes a long way here.

I reckon 28 if you use a knee pad and juice the rest, probably 29 if you don't.

Cruxy but fun

1 fall. Tried so hard to find a use for the new kneepad bit it's not worth it, just sail past the hueco. Feels much easier than equaliser. Keen to come back!

Successful battle with a wet hold

Kind of flash but had already done some moves from tlgn

Surprised and happy to stick all the moves onsight, albeit resting at each bolt. Will hopefully be back with some more endurance and a knee pad.

Slapped the top jug multiple times but couldn't stick it. Holds too tiny for my fat fingers.