Ascents in Oceania by pete kehoe

shit rock down low makes the start a bit spicy. great movement in the middle and a weird finish.

great climbing. first climb of the day.

Great flowing second pitch. First and third pitch blergh.

great gear. standard wires and small to medium cams. plenty of 60mm extensions. single pitch.

Missed the onsight first shot, took completely the wrong approach from the ground. Was not prepared for this climb.... * Gear Beta spoiler alert *...

We did not like this climb, but that's a matter of taste so don't be hating Have read reports of a soaring crack with good gear I started base up with a full rack minus 3s and 4s cams.... In fact the entire route is pretty much wires only on pretty sketchy rock. Pitch one - hard stabbing with some shitty directional wires (facing the wrong way) in wet cracks. Most of the wire placements are small or micro and the rock is not really hard enough to give much confidence. All falls involve swing and scrape. Gear failure means a high likelihood of serious injury. The rock is damp and lichenous. Some shrubbery grows from the line. Missed the onsight due to gear concerns at the crux which is a leftward traverse on damp holds and feet. There are some wire options mid crux to make it safer, took a while to fire this out... Also the flake at the finish is completely detached. Do not place cams here. Belay from an anchor of small wires above the flake. Second pitch is a similarly scarely wire fest. At easier grade..... Might be better in warmer weather. Good to have done but not super fun at the time... Bring almost no cams (or micros only) and a double rack of small wires.

Maybe I've got the wrong route but I hated this one. Dicey gear down low, lots of shrubbery and wet black rock makes it hard to focus on the climbing. If you enjoy shoving your cams blindly into moist flared slots... This one is for you. Might be better in summer.

Did i get this right? Bright orange double cracks... Looks perfect. VERY dusty. Very loose rocks up top, belayer beware. Would climb as a brilliant hand jammer if it had a pressure clean :p Felt alot harder than the grade? The dust is frictionless.

simply awesome.

Awesome. Closer to 40m with top out. Chain 10m westward (to the right). Good gear, some super cool wire options in surprising places!

Bloody awesome route. Fantastic protection down low. No protection above halfway but very easy climbing. Best done as a single pitch with a solo lead finish. Upper half can be protected with a single 6 cam if you want. Good natural anchor at top. Classic high quality route.

pretty messy up top. great climbing for first 2/3rds. advise a small number of micro cams and nuts for the finish. still comes with messy deck potential.

lead first pitch. second second pitch. big runouts above thin gear on pitch 1. awesome climbing on pitch two but covered in dusty filth from recent scrubbing above(?) shouldve brought tricams for pitch 1.

missed the onsight messing with the crux draw. nice sequence! sent second shot.

great line! possibly 19.

plenty of rests. went suprisingly well.

obvious holds for onsight but terribly sandy!

Done previously, can't remember when. Great climb but!

thought i was gonna pass out from blood loss after the crux