Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 11th Jun 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route - with chip | 520m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Quick morning burn to introduce Chip to seqld climbing. Ran into the Roma St swift water crew on the way up who swiftly began sledging Chip about his choice of footwear (cowboy boots).
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy | 45m | ||||
Blew it just past the crux with a beautiful clean whipper. Stunning line!
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20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine - with Kyle Addy | 33m | ||||
21 | ★★★ Odin II - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
Don't be a kook and drag a #5 & #6 up there like I did.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★ Baby Staysharp - with Daniel Razzino | 7m, 2 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Cock Corner - with Daniel Razzino | 30m | ||||
Found this pretty undeserving of the ledge fall reputation. I think most people deck because their belayer can't see. Push your belayer further out from the cliff so they have a good visual and plug the corner right up. Plenty of good gear until it seams. Crack was super pumpy!
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23 | ★★★ Epic Journey - with Daniel Razzino | 30m | ||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away - with Daniel Razzino | 35m | ||||
25 | ★★ Green Plastic Comb - with Daniel Razzino | 20m | ||||
Thanks to Matt for beta and ticks. Placing the gear on lead would be doable but you'd want it pretty dialled if you value your ankles.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye - with Daniel Razzino | 27m | ||||
BEST 23 AT FROG! Went a lot easier with knowledge of the key footer.
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
2x fitness burns
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20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
Always used to find this tough at the start of the season, both movement and gear. Very happy to cruise it, felt like a different route to memory
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21 | ★★ Fluid Journey - with Kyle Addy | 40m | ||||
A lot easier these days, but still a pretty tough read a few m off the ledge
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye - with Kyle Addy | 27m | ||||
Fuarrrk what an absolute ripper. Best 23 at frog I reckon, and every bit of the grade at that. Pure thin and off fingers. Missed a key footer that spat me off but keen for round two!
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★ Plummeting Pineapple - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 35m | ||||
Great committed lead by Dan. Blasted the crux like a mini moonboard problem leading to a pretty decent runout. A great time on second despite a bit of surgery on a few stuck cams.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 45m | ||||
Bit scarier on lead with the gear down low. Trick is to stay in tantrum instead of busting out to the arete as early as possible. Kind of a shame because the low arete moves are great and there is a chopped bolt there.
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake - with Kyle Addy | 18m | ||||
23 | ★ Go-between - with Kyle Addy | 18m | ||||
23 | ★ Baby Staysharp - with Kyle Addy | 7m, 2 | ||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy | 45m | ||||
Absolute banger. Up there with time for tea with movement quality.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Back Stroke of the West — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ||||
Crux took a while to figure out but got there in the end. Rad moves
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25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 15m, 7 | ||||
Really nice line
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire - with Jack Kilsby | 15m, 7 | ||||
Quite techy and awesome. Would've liked a second shot at it but, alas, didn't have the time.
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26 | ★★★ The French Connection — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ||||
Fuarrrrrk fell agonisingly close on the flash burn. Literally fell with the rope in my hand attempting to clip the chains. Great beta and encouragement from Jack helped it go down relatively easily second shot.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
Tatooine | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ Tuscan Raider - with Daniel Razzino | 5m | ||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 | ★★ One Alien, Four People and a Tree — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino | 8m, 4 | ||||
Nearly OS, probably the best and least sandbagged line in cave 5
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21 ~22 | ★ Unharnessed Desire - with Daniel Razzino | 10m | ||||
Sandbagged and chossy at the start
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Crikey - with Daniel Razzino | 10m, 4 | ||||
Could have been the shit Connie's but this was quite brutal getting to and then clipping the anchor, particularly if you're short. Good onsight burn from Dan
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23 |
★★★ Raptures P1
- with
Daniel Razzino
1
23
| 50m, 1 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Raptures - with Daniel Razzino | 50m, 1 | ||||
Took a massive whipper after dry firing off the 'mourge' mantle. Bruised the booty a bit and hence declined a shot at the afterlife
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Donnelly's Castle | ||||||
The Lookout | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Happy Apple — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Donnelly's Castle | ||||||
Dirty Action Area | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Naughts and Crosses - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
V4 ~V5 | ★ Sandcastle — 4 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | |||||
Bloody rough on the skin and quite cryptic
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Passchendaele State Forest | ||||||
Grey Havens | ||||||
V0 | Guess who's back, back again - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Mercury Sands — 5 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
Few burns to decide on L heel or toe. Settled on the heel
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Passchendaele State Forest | ||||||
Middle Sector | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Deoxyribonucleic Ascent - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | |||||
Hard in full sun
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V4 | ★★★ Edges of Mercy - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Arete on All or Nothing Boulder — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
Tricky mantle, flexibility and high feet are key
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V3 | ★★★ All or Nothing - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Pucker Up - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 7m | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Pink Bits — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 6m | ||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 15m, 7 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 9 | ||||
24 | ★★ Grandma Aragog's Boob — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 12m, 6 | ||||
Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
- with
Scott
2
24
| 80m | ||||
Mega mega mega!! Hands down the King line of tibrogargan. This was a surreal experience that will stay with me for the rest of my life. I thought the climbing would ease up after getting to the ear, but it stays on ya for another 5m up an essentially blank seam until you get your first bit of good gear just beneath the roof. Absolutely terrifying but well stoked and keen to come back for the redpoint. Huge thanks to Scotty for keeping the faith on a 2.5 hour belay and firing the traverse on second like a champ.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Raptures P1
- with
Alex Mougenot
1
23
| 50m, 1 | ||||
P1 was epic! Great crack! Definitely 22 max for the first pitch.
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24 | ★★★ Raptures - with Alex Mougenot | 50m, 1 | ||||
Excellent addition and vision Matthew Robbins. I'd say the grading is spot on too. V4/5 on a rope!
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25 | ★★★ The Afterlife - with Alex Mougenot | 20m, 8 | ||||
Not as good as tangled for movement quality and bolting but an epic line nonetheless. Hard to beat for the position. Total kneebar fest the entire way! Was cool peering though the ear at OOTB
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Tangled Up In Blue
- with
Alex Mougenot
1
25
2
25
| 50m, 9 | ||||
Dayumm the second pitch is the money pitch on this thing! Superb sequences! Quite absorbing trying to find the route without any chalk. Go get it!
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
- with
alex
1
22
2
24
| 80m | ||||
First proper attempt at the traverse. Made it under the overhung ridge but didn't commit to climbing into it because I couldn't see any gear, and the moves up would've been irreversible. Need to recce where the mythical halfway placement is, otherwise I don't think I can commit to the traverse in good conscience. A fall here would be met with a nasty swing into the sharp rock sticking out of p1. Headgame getting better each time!
|
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25 |
★★★ Back in Black
- with
alex
1
22
2
25
3
23
| 75m, 4 | ||||
Struggled to find 'the position' on this. Ended up mostly facing in instead of out. P3 is pretty cool. Worth doing. Sat for a wire.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 | ★★ King Casper - with Kyle Addy | 25m, 10 | ||||
Great addition Troy McAndrew! Definitely harder than 25 IMO
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25 |
★★★ Tangled Up In Blue P1
— 2 attempts
- with
Kyle Addy
1
25
| 50m, 9 | ||||
Best 25 on the hill hands down. An example of a perfectly bolted route. Feels way more exposed than the Achilles and IBD sector due to the bolting, steeper climbing and steeper approach, and boy was I feeling it. There's plenty of gear for the first 10m. Use a 120cm sling on the first bolt and 60cm slings on the next three otherwise you'll be hosed with rope drag.
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Trojan - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 73m | ||||
First two pitches only to rescue Dan and Jaime. Good to get back on the big T after 4 years. Plenty of gear, particularly with totems, just need a bit of creativity to find it.
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24 | ★★ Strange Fruit — 2 attempts - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 25m, 10 | ||||
Stunning line! Best 24 on the hill, better than halfway house routes. Absolute shit show up at summit caves rescuing Dan and Jaime, absolute punters.
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Zeus, You Bastard - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 7 | ||||
Hold has to be broken for sure. This was absolute nails.
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17 | ★★★ Minotaur p1 - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 6 | ||||
25 | ★★ Loki's Mischief - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 12m, 4 | ||||
Finally figured it out. Very unintuitive movement, but fine when it clicks.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Medusa - with Daniel Razzino | 15m, 3 | ||||
Quite a tricky sequence to read, and solid at the grade even being tall. Definitely 24 if you're short.
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25 | ★★ Loki's Mischief - with Daniel Razzino | 12m, 4 | ||||
Nails. Couldn't figure out the move getting into the bucket, Pandora's box seemed way easier. Hold broken perhaps?
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28 | ★★ Pandora's Box - with Daniel Razzino | 15m, 4 | ||||
Sick moves, doable but very sharp
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ You Shall Not Pass — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 25m | ||||
Yeww! Managed to punch it out in between intermittent squalls.
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24 | ★★ Cobra Necktie - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 20m | ||||
Tricky move to read. Will be a lot easier on round 2
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21 | ★ Harpe - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 6m, 3 | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
26 | ★ Steaming Wally - with Hilary Grimmer | 13m, 3 | ||||
Figured out the beta but no time for a proper shot. Actually not too bad once it clicks.
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24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Hilary Grimmer | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - with jaime, James Hockey, Daniel Razzino | 25m | ||||
Yeww!! What a way to cap off the season!! Made even more special by going back to back sends with James. Special thanks to Dan, Kyle, Alex and El Toro for being such a chilled but motivated '23 frog crew.
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with jaime, james | 25m | ||||
Fml punted after the elevator door going for the final sloper beneath the good crack and then fell in exactly the same place on the second burn. Still felt abit fatigued from Sunday.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Impulse - with alex, Jaime | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with alex, Jaime | 25m | ||||
Choked it on the first burn of the day Passed the crux and just forgot to keep tension in the legs for the elevator door. Regardless, new highpoint, and still really enjoying climbing the route!
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with jaime | 25m | ||||
New highpoint mid-crux. Few good lessons/improvements made with the gear
|
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 18m, 5 | ||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★★ Angel Rider - with Kyle Addy | 50m | ||||
Not a bad line but pretty awkward and loose at times. 19 felt a bit more accurate, particularly for the topout which isn't a straightforward affair
|
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28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - with Kyle Addy | 25m | ||||
First lead attempt. Had a few sits to consolidate the stances down low. Cruised the crux on the first attempt and then took the biggest whip of my trad career at the scene where Moogie struggles to find the key post-crux RP. Unlike Alex, I couldn't find that RP for the life of me so down I went. Rapped it afterwards and properly dialed the placement.
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 3 attempts | 25m | ||||
Few attempts wiring it in and then got through the crux clean from the ground yeww
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers | 25m | ||||
Climbed the fridge sequence far better but climbed the next sequence after the jug far worse. Few more burns on TR needed to burn it into the hippocampus than previously expected
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, jamie | 25m | ||||
Rope solo. Red point up next. It'll be a race against the Connie's for this one, already starting to heat up...
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Chook Fear — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, jamie | 20m | ||||
Blew the start on the first burn, remembered much better beta for the second and went to the chains! Climbed in a beautiful flow state. I think this route is an epitome of hard frog climbing and a proper benchmark of 26 trad: small gear, technical footwork, fimgerlocks, stemming, not many places to hide. Stunner!
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Chook Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 20m | ||||
26 | ★★ Chook Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 20m | ||||
First red point attempt. Good gains finding the gear stances. Keen for more burns.
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort - with Daniel Razzino | 25m | ||||
Was a bit shaken up from Dan's hectic whipper. Jumped off at the same point for reassurance.
|
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Juggernaut - with Hilary Grimmer | 30m | ||||
Torn pants. F*cked TC's. Grazed body. Stoked. Thanks to Matty and Dan for the quad rack of #6's
|
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18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band - with Hilary Grimmer | 17m | ||||
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity - with Kyle Addy, Dan Cox | 40m | ||||
26 | ★★ Chook Fear — 2 attempts - with Kyle Addy, Dan Cox | 20m | ||||
One fall at the start and then clean on the second burn
|
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28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - with Kyle Addy, Dan Cox | 25m | ||||
Good beta progression holding the RH crux hold lower with the back 3 almost finger locking
|
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Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort - with Kyle Addy, Dan Cox | 25m | ||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort - with Daniel Razzino, eric | 25m | ||||
Red Point up next! Beautiful line, one of the best I've climbed at frog to date.
|
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25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort - with Daniel Razzino, eric | 25m | ||||
25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort - with Daniel Razzino, eric | 25m | ||||
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with Kyle Addy | 25m | ||||
This thing fuarkin goes boiz!! First burn clean to the crux, then several falls through crux. Second burn clean to crux twith good overlapping links using mostly moogie beta. Huge boon having good connies and Mr BCT himself hosing me down throughout. Strange to be experiencing the motivation to pull hard and project after so many years of just chasing volume...
|
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Conquistador - with Daniel Razzino, jamie | 45m | ||||
23 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne - with Daniel Razzino, jamie | 30m | ||||
Placed a #6 in Odin and ran it out all the way past the roof to the rest. In addition to giving me some good beta while on the go for the roof, Esther advised me not to place a piece on the lip. Upon seeing the lip, I kinda agree that a cam in there might not be the greatest idea. You'd be facing a mad whipper, but at least you're not going to kill anyone below. With this in mind, and a route like holy grail as a comparison, I personally think the route warrants an R. Those blocks are on borrowed time...
|
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral - with jamie | 45m | ||||
21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away - with jamie | 35m | ||||
26 | ★★ Wild One - with jamie | 20m | ||||
27 | ★★★ Time for Tea - with jamie | 35m, 6 | ||||
A real psychological victory. Started raining just as I gained the flake rest. Was tossing up whether to crack on or wait it out but decided to punch it. The route stayed just dry enough to make it to the chains, at which point the rain subsided!
|