Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 11th Jun 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route - with chip | 520m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Quick morning burn to introduce Chip to seqld climbing. Ran into the Roma St swift water crew on the way up who swiftly began sledging Chip about his choice of footwear (cowboy boots).
|
||||||
Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy | 45m | ||||
Blew it just past the crux with a beautiful clean whipper. Stunning line!
|
||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine - with Kyle Addy | 33m | ||||
21 | ★★★ Odin II - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
Don't be a kook and drag a #5 & #6 up there like I did.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★ Baby Staysharp - with Daniel Razzino | 7m, 2 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Cock Corner - with Daniel Razzino | 30m | ||||
Found this pretty undeserving of the ledge fall reputation. I think most people deck because their belayer can't see. Push your belayer further out from the cliff so they have a good visual and plug the corner right up. Plenty of good gear until it seams. Crack was super pumpy!
|
||||||
23 | ★★★ Epic Journey - with Daniel Razzino | 30m | ||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away - with Daniel Razzino | 35m | ||||
25 | ★★ Green Plastic Comb - with Daniel Razzino | 20m | ||||
Thanks to Matt for beta and ticks. Placing the gear on lead would be doable but you'd want it pretty dialled if you value your ankles.
|
||||||
Sun 26th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye - with Daniel Razzino | 27m | ||||
BEST 23 AT FROG! Went a lot easier with knowledge of the key footer.
|
||||||
Thu 23rd May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
2x fitness burns
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
Always used to find this tough at the start of the season, both movement and gear. Very happy to cruise it, felt like a different route to memory
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Fluid Journey - with Kyle Addy | 40m | ||||
A lot easier these days, but still a pretty tough read a few m off the ledge
|
||||||
Thu 23rd May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye - with Kyle Addy | 27m | ||||
Fuarrrk what an absolute ripper. Best 23 at frog I reckon, and every bit of the grade at that. Pure thin and off fingers. Missed a key footer that spat me off but keen for round two!
|
||||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★ Plummeting Pineapple - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 35m | ||||
Great committed lead by Dan. Blasted the crux like a mini moonboard problem leading to a pretty decent runout. A great time on second despite a bit of surgery on a few stuck cams.
|
||||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 45m | ||||
Bit scarier on lead with the gear down low. Trick is to stay in tantrum instead of busting out to the arete as early as possible. Kind of a shame because the low arete moves are great and there is a chopped bolt there.
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake - with Kyle Addy | 18m | ||||
23 | ★ Go-between - with Kyle Addy | 18m | ||||
23 | ★ Baby Staysharp - with Kyle Addy | 7m, 2 | ||||
26 | ★★ Petulance - with Kyle Addy | 45m | ||||
Absolute banger. Up there with time for tea with movement quality.
|
||||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Sierra de Gredos | ||||||
Los Galayos Torreón | ||||||
7a+ |
★★★ La Rosa de los Vientos
- with
jaime, juan
1
3
2
4
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6b+
| 170m | ||||
Proper alpine conditions on the Torreon. low single digit temps, 50km gusts, snow in the descent col. Overall the coldest I've ever been while rock climbing. 7a+ as the second route in Galayos in these conditions was always going to be ambitious, but I gave the crux pitch a solid burn, falling in the dihedral. Went a lot easier after cleaning out the crack and committing to the friction stem. Conditions deteriorated at the 6b+ and we were all thankful to make it to the cumbre without getting rained on. Jaime and Juan had a domestic trying to locate the rap anchors. Eventually we found them and got the f*ck down. Cold af but stoked to share the experience with the twins!
|
||||||
Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Sierra de Gredos | ||||||
Los Galayos Punta Maria Luisa | ||||||
6b |
★★★ Diedro Ayuso
- with
El toro Juan
1
4+
2
5+
3
6b
4
6a+
5
5+
| 160m | ||||
Classic Spanish alpine experience! Massive walk in, huge elevation gain. 6b pitch was the highlight, bomber rock and beautiful arcing crack. Chossy exit that challenges the route finding skills
|
||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Les Calanques | ||||||
Luminy Paroi des Toits Machard | ||||||
6b+ |
Soleil noir
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
1
2
3
| |||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
La Grande Face | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Les Frontierres du neant - with Antoine Chandonnet | 28m, 7 | ||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
La Ruine Nuage | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Cap Horn - with Antoine Chandonnet | 31m, 9 | ||||
One of the best at the crag!
|
||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Chateauvert | ||||||
La Grande Face | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Abolition des Privileges
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
1
7a+
26m
2
7b+
19m
| 45m, 14 | ||||
7a | ★★ Le magicien d'Oz (par le diedre) - with Antoine Chandonnet | 30m, 10 | ||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Les Calanques | ||||||
Luminy Paroi des Toits Machard | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Avec vue sur la mer — 2 attempts - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
Stunning, first burn went quite well, but couldn't summon the juice to get it done on the second
|
||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Les Calanques | ||||||
Luminy Paroi des Toits Grand alleluia | ||||||
7a | ★★ La souris deglinguee - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
Unexpected foot slip off the polish
|
||||||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | ||||||
Malines | ||||||
6c |
★★ Lame Fatale
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
3
6b
4
6a+
Accidental link up | 250m | ||||
Epic route! The true verdon experience! Runouts galore, no fall zones, tricky route finding, and an absolutely mega classic sustained crux pitch on a striking arete. Overall, the route climbed very similarly to a trad line, with the most common sequences being delicate laybacks on technical smeary feet. Probably the best sport multi I've ever done!
|
||||||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Céüse | ||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Mawoi
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
1
6b+
2
6c+
3
7b+
| 50m | ||||
Link up 1&2. Possibly the best sport pitch of my life. 40m of climbing into infinity!
|
||||||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Céüse | ||||||
Berlin | ||||||
7a | ★ Le Petit Martien - with Antoine Chandonnet | 35m | ||||
6b | ★★ Coup De Blues Pour Petit Dom - with Antoine Chandonnet | 20m | ||||
6c | ★★★ Zagreb - with Antoine Chandonnet | 25m | ||||
Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | ||||||
Malines Falaise du Pas d'Issane | ||||||
6b+ | Trou et son contraire - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
5c | Hein oui? - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
6b+ | Y'a du Monde au Balcon - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
6a+ | Abracadabrac - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
6c | Débarquement Immediate - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
7a | ★★★ Colocaïne - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
Presque enchainee, un brise-coeur!
|
||||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Volx | ||||||
Diagnostic et Champagne | ||||||
6b | ★★ Escalier C - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Volx | ||||||
Minute | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Caramelodie - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
5c | ★★★ Popol Vuh - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Lilliput - with Antoine Chandonnet | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
27 | ★★ Back Stroke of the West — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ||||
Crux took a while to figure out but got there in the end. Rad moves
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 15m, 7 | ||||
Really nice line
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Terminus of Desire - with Jack Kilsby | 15m, 7 | ||||
Quite techy and awesome. Would've liked a second shot at it but, alas, didn't have the time.
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ The French Connection — 2 attempts - with Jack Kilsby | 20m, 9 | ||||
Fuarrrrrk fell agonisingly close on the flash burn. Literally fell with the rope in my hand attempting to clip the chains. Great beta and encouragement from Jack helped it go down relatively easily second shot.
|
||||||
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - White Rock Conservation Area | ||||||
Tatooine | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ Tuscan Raider - with Daniel Razzino | 5m | ||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 | ★★ One Alien, Four People and a Tree — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino | 8m, 4 | ||||
Nearly OS, probably the best and least sandbagged line in cave 5
|
||||||
21 ~22 | ★ Unharnessed Desire - with Daniel Razzino | 10m | ||||
Sandbagged and chossy at the start
|
||||||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Crikey - with Daniel Razzino | 10m, 4 | ||||
Could have been the shit Connie's but this was quite brutal getting to and then clipping the anchor, particularly if you're short. Good onsight burn from Dan
|
||||||
23 |
★★★ Raptures P1
- with
Daniel Razzino
1
23
| 50m, 1 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Raptures - with Daniel Razzino | 50m, 1 | ||||
Took a massive whipper after dry firing off the 'mourge' mantle. Bruised the booty a bit and hence declined a shot at the afterlife
|
||||||
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Donnelly's Castle | ||||||
The Lookout | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Happy Apple — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Donnelly's Castle | ||||||
Dirty Action Area | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Naughts and Crosses - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
V4 ~V5 | ★ Sandcastle — 4 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | |||||
Bloody rough on the skin and quite cryptic
|
||||||
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Passchendaele State Forest | ||||||
Grey Havens | ||||||
V0 | Guess who's back, back again - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Mercury Sands — 5 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 3m | ||||
Few burns to decide on L heel or toe. Settled on the heel
|
||||||
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Passchendaele State Forest | ||||||
Middle Sector | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Deoxyribonucleic Ascent - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | |||||
Hard in full sun
|
||||||
V4 | ★★★ Edges of Mercy - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Arete on All or Nothing Boulder — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
Tricky mantle, flexibility and high feet are key
|
||||||
V3 | ★★★ All or Nothing - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★★★ Pucker Up - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 7m | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Pink Bits — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer, jaime, carla | 6m | ||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Wet Jigsaw Puzzle - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 15m, 7 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 9 | ||||
24 | ★★ Grandma Aragog's Boob — 2 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 12m, 6 | ||||
Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
- with
Scott
2
24
| 80m | ||||
Mega mega mega!! Hands down the King line of tibrogargan. This was a surreal experience that will stay with me for the rest of my life. I thought the climbing would ease up after getting to the ear, but it stays on ya for another 5m up an essentially blank seam until you get your first bit of good gear just beneath the roof. Absolutely terrifying but well stoked and keen to come back for the redpoint. Huge thanks to Scotty for keeping the faith on a 2.5 hour belay and firing the traverse on second like a champ.
|
||||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Raptures P1
- with
Alex Mougenot
1
23
| 50m, 1 | ||||
P1 was epic! Great crack! Definitely 22 max for the first pitch.
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Raptures - with Alex Mougenot | 50m, 1 | ||||
Excellent addition and vision Matthew Robbins. I'd say the grading is spot on too. V4/5 on a rope!
|
||||||
25 | ★★★ The Afterlife - with Alex Mougenot | 20m, 8 | ||||
Not as good as tangled for movement quality and bolting but an epic line nonetheless. Hard to beat for the position. Total kneebar fest the entire way! Was cool peering though the ear at OOTB
|
||||||
Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Tangled Up In Blue
- with
Alex Mougenot
1
25
2
25
| 50m, 9 | ||||
Dayumm the second pitch is the money pitch on this thing! Superb sequences! Quite absorbing trying to find the route without any chalk. Go get it!
|
||||||
Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
- with
alex
1
22
2
24
| 80m | ||||
First proper attempt at the traverse. Made it under the overhung ridge but didn't commit to climbing into it because I couldn't see any gear, and the moves up would've been irreversible. Need to recce where the mythical halfway placement is, otherwise I don't think I can commit to the traverse in good conscience. A fall here would be met with a nasty swing into the sharp rock sticking out of p1. Headgame getting better each time!
|
||||||
25 |
★★★ Back in Black
- with
alex
1
22
2
25
3
23
| 75m, 4 | ||||
Struggled to find 'the position' on this. Ended up mostly facing in instead of out. P3 is pretty cool. Worth doing. Sat for a wire.
|
||||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 | ★★ King Casper - with Kyle Addy | 25m, 10 | ||||
Great addition Troy McAndrew! Definitely harder than 25 IMO
|
||||||
25 |
★★★ Tangled Up In Blue P1
— 2 attempts
- with
Kyle Addy
1
25
| 50m, 9 | ||||
Best 25 on the hill hands down. An example of a perfectly bolted route. Feels way more exposed than the Achilles and IBD sector due to the bolting, steeper climbing and steeper approach, and boy was I feeling it. There's plenty of gear for the first 10m. Use a 120cm sling on the first bolt and 60cm slings on the next three otherwise you'll be hosed with rope drag.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Trojan - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 73m | ||||
First two pitches only to rescue Dan and Jaime. Good to get back on the big T after 4 years. Plenty of gear, particularly with totems, just need a bit of creativity to find it.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Strange Fruit — 2 attempts - with Kyle Addy, Daniel Razzino | 25m, 10 | ||||
Stunning line! Best 24 on the hill, better than halfway house routes. Absolute shit show up at summit caves rescuing Dan and Jaime, absolute punters.
|
||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Zeus, You Bastard - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 7 | ||||
Hold has to be broken for sure. This was absolute nails.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Minotaur p1 - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 20m, 6 | ||||
25 | ★★ Loki's Mischief - with Daniel Razzino, jaime | 12m, 4 | ||||
Finally figured it out. Very unintuitive movement, but fine when it clicks.
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Medusa - with Daniel Razzino | 15m, 3 | ||||
Quite a tricky sequence to read, and solid at the grade even being tall. Definitely 24 if you're short.
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Loki's Mischief - with Daniel Razzino | 12m, 4 | ||||
Nails. Couldn't figure out the move getting into the bucket, Pandora's box seemed way easier. Hold broken perhaps?
|
||||||
28 | ★★ Pandora's Box - with Daniel Razzino | 15m, 4 | ||||
Sick moves, doable but very sharp
|
||||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Serpent | ||||||
Serpent Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ You Shall Not Pass — 3 attempts - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 25m | ||||
Yeww! Managed to punch it out in between intermittent squalls.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Cobra Necktie - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 20m | ||||
Tricky move to read. Will be a lot easier on round 2
|
||||||
21 | ★ Harpe - with Daniel Razzino, Hilary Grimmer | 6m, 3 | ||||
Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
26 | ★ Steaming Wally - with Hilary Grimmer | 13m, 3 | ||||
Figured out the beta but no time for a proper shot. Actually not too bad once it clicks.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Hilary Grimmer | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - with jaime, James Hockey, Daniel Razzino | 25m | ||||
Yeww!! What a way to cap off the season!! Made even more special by going back to back sends with James. Special thanks to Dan, Kyle, Alex and El Toro for being such a chilled but motivated '23 frog crew.
|
||||||
Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with jaime, james | 25m | ||||
Fml punted after the elevator door going for the final sloper beneath the good crack and then fell in exactly the same place on the second burn. Still felt abit fatigued from Sunday.
|
||||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Impulse - with alex, Jaime | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with alex, Jaime | 25m | ||||
Choked it on the first burn of the day Passed the crux and just forgot to keep tension in the legs for the elevator door. Regardless, new highpoint, and still really enjoying climbing the route!
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers — 2 attempts - with jaime | 25m | ||||
New highpoint mid-crux. Few good lessons/improvements made with the gear
|
||||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 18m, 5 | ||||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear - with Daniel Razzino | 18m, 5 | ||||
Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★★ Angel Rider - with Kyle Addy | 50m | ||||
Not a bad line but pretty awkward and loose at times. 19 felt a bit more accurate, particularly for the topout which isn't a straightforward affair
|