Ascents in Oceania by Vanessa Wills

More back rehab

Rpt, testing out the back carefully. It’s kind of nice to touch rock, even if it’s waterworks….

FFA, such amazing rock, need to bring anchors to top of wall, but won’t be doing much for a while.

FFA

FFA, the last thing I did before the back went ping while camping later that night.

Felt sketchy in the spooge

If I knew this was my second last day climbing for 6 weeks I would have gone somewhere else. Awful spoogy conditions in the howling on shore

Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!

The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…

Despite the weather forecast saying it’s fine it was raining and rather slippery

Very dirty, and horrible start. If you are short just step on partners knee….

Found the moves to annd around the second bolt hard. The rest was really pleasant.

I thought easier than drop zone, and liked it more. A little tricky to on-site I guess.

Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!

Rpt, excellent crack

Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return

Even weirder bolt placement. Perhaps an early attempt at the dark art? Maybe I was just grumpy because it was freezing and climbing in mist and there didn’t seem any point getting on the better routes up here

A plus for bolt camouflage but minus a couple of stars for contrivance and bolt placement.

2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off

Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard

I had to divert back into holiday after falling off the thin finger crux to make upward progress then moved right again. The stalactite feature was amazing but vibrates.

I thought Peregrine ( 23) was easier than this, onsighted everything except the crux which was hard, especially with less reach. Got quite spooked above the crux, great exposure.

Really nice moves and rock up top

The top half was good

Felt Contrived

Long moves between horizontals

We went direct via some great bouldery moves. I couldn’t reach the way Dave did to a good hold way right, but managed to figure out a tough way whereby I thought my heel would snap if I fell, so did it on TR clean after two lead goes and aiding through crux on first go. Going direct seemed more 24 at my height. The flake to the right of the third bolt rocks and although keyed in at the moment may loosen or come out if someone yarded on it. We actually liked it, includes staying on face past 3 Rd bolt. Dave also did the arete finish.

Quite good, a direct finish would work but at the moment feels run out and makes you head left

I thought better than route to the right

Deserves a star, interesting climb

Tricky crack size

Painful and not appealing

Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.

Did the offwidth to left start because it looked cleaner. Thesarvo has it down as grade 11 which surely must be a typo

The grid bolting detracts

Rpt

The quick arvo gym session

The best route on the wall I think

Some people have rest stops off the freeway, we had a climb stop for 90 minutes

So slippery today in the spooge

Dirty

Rpt. Totally spoogy. For a lead I think grade 20

Rpt, good moves, make it easy. 2 laps to set up TRs.

Worthy of rebolt, the carrots and FH are pretty manky, but some good moves. In todays spooge and 100% humidity it felt super hard. Gave horizontals a good clean out first go.

Got to half way mantle clean and almost got through it it, then easy to the crimp crux and faded on the top third again.

P2 and3 , got through the first half of P2 to the mantle, then faded towards end. P3 start is dire, then gnarly finger crack that will be tricky on lead

Rpt, 2 clean laps

Rpt, with louise