Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting out at least despite feeling poorly
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Lindfield Rocks | ||||||
Four Cracks Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ 12 - Slanting Crack | 4m | ||||
V1 | ★ 10 - The Finger Crack | 4m | ||||
V0 | ★ 8 - Twin Cracks | 4m | ||||
V0 | ★ 6 - The Layback Crack | 4m | ||||
On way to airport. Slippery conditions
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Rpt. Shoulder playing up today.
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years
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Wed 10th May 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
With the proximity of the trees I no longer feel comfortable leading this. Feels contrived, due to how close tree is to cliff
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18 | ★ So wat’cha want | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
May have improved with traffic. Quite good, except for whomever coated each hold with chalk- totally unnecessary and reduces friction. Single bolt anchor up top. May be a good area to do the rebolting and fix anchor arrangement.
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16 | ★ The maestro | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting for the grade. Rpt, from aeons ago.
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Umina | ||||||
Lake View | ||||||
24 ~23 | ★★ Brush With Mitch — 2 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Even moving left straight from corner this thing seems soft for grade. Interesting moves for short climb.
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21 | ★★ Forbes Fortune | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, crimps feeling great in cold conditions
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15 | ★ Treasure Island | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, careful of pine needles. Not sure why this area of bush was recently burnt.
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15 | ★ The Mirage | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt, still not a fan due to ledge. Has cleaned up with traffic
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16 | ★ Quick links ahoy | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. Cold morning, frozen fingers, climbing in a puffy jacket!
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18 | ★ Step across gap | 13m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt
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21 | ★ Broken drill bit | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. A fair bit of dirt on holds, I think we need to separate climbing and abseiling in this area
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23 | ★ Watcher in the Water | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Gimli's Gripe | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Kleptomania | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Dob Dob Dob | 11m | ||||
Did another couple of eliminates as well on this wall. Getting in before rain and iris moore way too spoogy
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16 | ★ Dib Dib Dib | 10m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Woggle | 10m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ V groove | 9m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Natalia | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt nice little slab. Did 2 laps.
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18 | ★ Tea Bag | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Felt like it deserved a v grade. Steep for the short.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★ Chips Ahoy | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt. Despite name I can’t see any chips on this. The tree is a disincentive to lead this one. Best to set anchor before climbing.
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Really needs a bolt added, the cam placement can get quite sandy, hardest move of day at start
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21 | ★ Pauls Project / C | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Easier than the 20, and some of the 19s I think.
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15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. One very thin move, needed a good clean.
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16 | ★ NS | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Nice
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads | 30m, 13 | Average | |||
Did this so I could be the 1000 logged ascent on this sector, but not really worth it. I found getting off the ledge scary. Fortunately a stick was there as couldn’t reach the bolt
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt, always lovely
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18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, we thought we were about to get rained out. Tried the left variant finish as well.
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14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | Executioner | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Very old school grade, very mossy and second bolt looks suss. Despite this it is an interesting climb that deserves a re bolt. Best to continue up hand crack above ledge ( past dead tree ) to cartwheeling mid anchors.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 7 | ||||||
18 | ★ Timing is Everything | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A bit like the ironstone bits of BBB but a lot shorter
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 6 | ||||||
16 | ★ Paraphernalia | 27m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Nice long route, the rock on the ledge is obvious to avoid
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 3 | ||||||
16 | ★ Shady Character | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★★ Cut Throat | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Off to the Glue Factory | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
12 | Five Four | 8m, 3 | ||||
Setting up a Tr for the grandkids. Followed by sprints around the pump track which was far more exhausting
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Tue 18th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
The Panopticon Panopticon South | ||||||
18 | ★ Blue Eyes Crying in the Rain | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, would be great but for the ledges
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14 | ★★ Just Another Day at the Office | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ The Nose of Il Cappuccino | 20m, 9 | ||||
Pleasant climb for grade
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20 | ★★ Cat Burglar | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Haiku | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun. Non jammers may not like this
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18 ~19 | ★ Light Fingered Mckenny | 10m, 6 | ||||
Is a 20 on thesarvo. One big move
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18 | Stitched up | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
16 | ★ Chutzpah | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★ Jane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Still no luck on this crimpy beast. My negative ape factor is obvious on the bottom big move, I’m 5 cm short. Having to dyno will add a few grades. Feels at least 24 regardless going from there.
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag Wave Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Crest | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt twice as long as it was, quite thoughtful
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13 ~14 | ★ Point Break | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
More like a sand river 14
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fanciful | 30m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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16 | ★★ Whimsical Ways | 31m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, people keep forgetting to clean the bolt under the roof. We will return thebooty
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Transporter | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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19 | ★★ Mis Led | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.
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19 | ★★ Slabble | 15m | ||||
Still top ropable.
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14 | ★ Deep Water | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Soloed first time, led on gear this time, lots of small cams in horizontals
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9 | ★★ Short Shrift | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★ Self-abuse | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★★ Thanks for the Mammaries | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juicy Rumours | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another nice trad classic
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21 ~22 | Queen of the Goths | 27m | Average | |||
Rpt, quick end of day lap. Probably more a 22. The rock at the bottom really is crap.
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21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.
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19 | ★★ Burning Spear | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice route
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Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Don't Bother | |||
Rpt first pitch which is not too bad and worth doing but suggest abseil off tree. The loose blocks on P2 are still there and it was an unpleasant experience. P 3 ok. Going don’t bother because it’s a potentially dangerous route at present
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Spook Flake | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I didn’t think it was hard except the reachy bit straight off the ledge if you can’t reach the top of the flake. Both halves have nice moves. A bit too much mizzle coming in to do more today, but nice spot .
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19 | ★ Gumbo | 15m | Average | |||
Rock quality rather blah ( even the good bit) . Quite pumpy
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Fri 24th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Hark! The .. | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Anal Leakage | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Jimmy Valmer | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Butt Nuggets | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
11 | One, Two, Umm, Three! | 8m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ You are not the bose, I am the bose — 2 attempts | 9m, 2 | Average | |||
Rpt, had to clean holds
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19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ All Climb and No Belay Makes Jack a Shit Mate | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes Direct | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think Dave did variant on P2 left of the actual line at grade 16/17, it was cobwebbed and no chalk, but quite good.
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Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Interlude | 35m, 2 | ||||
The bottom crux felt 18. The top crux past the second bolt is scary for leader as invisible from ground above a ledge and at least a grade harder. Dave pointed to the good hold to top out. Definitely would not be physio approved…
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyable
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11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice start and crux. Convenient anchors. Not sure the physio would approve, but she did say I could climb easy stuff…
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Apparently been on this before
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12 | ★ Josie's Climb | 50m | Average | |||
Lovely rock architecture, wasn’t really looking for pro but it appeared spaced.
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 ~18 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good varied climb but slippery in spots. Didn’t want to risk falling and reinjuring my back
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22 R | Friendless | 40m | Average | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nothing like some hot desert air and vertical quartzite to help the bad back and junky chest
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
16 | ★ The Blind Leading The Crippled | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Resurrection | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Interloper | 10m, 4 | Average |