Routes in Oceania

Up left side on the arete of the boulder

TG direct finish. Might be 28

Sit start, up with the right face.

Standing arete problem. Thin big moves with heel hooling trickery. Should go easier than 8.

Climb to the roof (gear in horizontal underneath), reach up to clip a bolt, then continue past roof on arete to the next horizontal. Continue up groove above to top and DBB. Doubles of RP3 essential. Gear is good but spaced.

Climb the bolted NW arête of the Central Buttress

Cleaned and bolted by Singer Smith and Geoff Gledhill January 2011. Most of the upper crack and face scoop has been freed between 22 and 24, but the start is &%^*#%^ hard (at least 30?), campusing on fingerlocks for 8-10 meters or toe-hooking the aretes at a horribly overhung angle. Aid climbers would have a lot of fun on a route this steep.

Start: Located on the pillar about 50 meters uphill from the second-to-last ski lift pole and can be approached from the ski run or by walking past the Hump and crossing the gully.

Start matched on side pull, move out left to shitty hold then up to pinchy thing on the right, then top out

Start as for Unnamed Arete and head up and left around the corner to the starting holds of Jumper, then finish as for Jumper.

Historical ascensionist advise taping the tip of the left index finger in order to use the invisible link which is a tiny sharp spiky edge.

Grade: VM

Sit start under overhang with good left pinch and high right edge. Hard move to slot, then gain unique features on slab and topout into fern opening.

Same as for Crooks and Castles, except starting from the lowest under cling possible.

A dance of seduction and rejection. 5BR to DBB.

(1) 7m 15. Start at the very end of the ramp. Hand and foot traverse right and surmount the large flake to belay on a BR and large Friends. Ignore the bolt below which is for the ground up ascent to come.

(2) 20m 19. Delicately up, smearing most of the way. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 28 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

Mantle onto a small ledge, jamb right hand high, then follow the left tending crack up to common lower offs.

Sit start with good jug. Up with good holds. Awesome! https://youtu.be/-H-F1n9RaCg?t=17

Sit start as for Bipolar finish as for XmasO.

Jump up to the crimpy jugs, just below roof bulge on the arete, then swing dyno left to land feet on the slab and catch the side-pull crimpy jug in the centre of the slab (static earns you a downgrade). Then climb straight up the slab using the slopey crimps without using the jugs to the left. (obvious vertical crack between the two faces is out).

Short and powerful route that could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of the small cave with amazing rock features. 4 closely spaced FH's with very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug.

Open project. It's a hard start without the tree. Decent crimps in the middle to the razor sharp crux crimps at the top. Top out with slopers then a mantle to DRB. Can easily set up a top rope.

An excellent compression line, sit start with left on low incut side pull and slightly higher right side pull

Sit start then up through the little corner.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Start up The Open Seam then traverse left just before the top. Reverse The Flake to the big break and keep going left to Mr. Mantle. Finish up this.

The rightmost route just past the toe of the buttress. Pocketed black slab

continue past 2 more bolts to chain after finishing either Exslovenian or Snuggles The Dragon.

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps

up the nice looking boulder on the not so nice rock.

Start right foot good footer base of rail mantling the slab to the left direct.

Out of crack, using the LH side only and crack Jams.

Temptation from above, death from below.

• This entire pillar and the “project” which was once on it have now fallen down and no longer exist.

Stand start the striking dark arete. In Kambuwal culture, Millmerran means 'running water’. This problem was first cleaned on a very wet day.

Standing start matched on the undercling, use the left Arete to gain the top for a mantle finish staying on the face.

Initialled start. Be wary of the Bees nest on the 2nd pitch.

Probably soft if you’re tall and/or can jump... but take care not to tear your right pinky off!! Stand start at chest height slope and pocket gaston on the Radness (or lower if you’re up for it). Establish feet and Dyno to radness finish jugs up right. No popping from the ground peeps! Easy high finish. Even better link it out of the Radness start!

A less travelled route up Mt Barney, beginning from Upper Portals and following the ridgeline south to Bippoh Peak (Midget) and then up West Peak via its Northern Ridge. Heavily vegetated.

Sit start with two hands on the top left of the bit of rock that sticks out, to the very left of the wall with 'The Young and The Restless'. Small crimpy jug is out, continue using two crimps and the sloper/jug over the lip to top out.

Tahlia Harsdorf

Start as for graffiti arete. Bust left and mantle the face. Stay away from the arete's holds.

Starts on ledge below the main cave. Climbs up and left to arete. Bad landing

Start 30 m right of Tourist Route.

1-2) Direct line up open, knobby rock gully with fig at 20 m.

Designed to introduced fledgling climbers to outdoors

Start as for St1.1 mving right finishing up centre of wall (sans good right foot)

Rockfall exposed a new possible route. V8?

Up the ramp to Excuse Me While I Touch The Sky, up it for a couple of moves, traverse right and finish up the corner.

Sit start below the feature using obvious crimp rail and ledge for feet.

From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up.

First route at left hand end of the cave, past motorpussy

Traverse the lip of the boulder starting from the far right hand end and top out at Slip the dip. Pad up those back breakers!

Arete

Right side of the crack from a sit.

Huge ramp, potentially the best pure slab climb in the South Pacific, not that there's much competition... Only route that tops out and bolted as such that crux's can be aided, roughly 18 M1. Delicate moves on low angle mingers and pockets. Move belay 3m left to the rap chains when topping out.

Start 5m above Knobulus so belayer can see your efforts as you tackle the knobbly wall by the crack for 5m. Finish as for K. #4 Camalot is essential for the top. Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Apr 2014.

Start as for Grandstand to the finger jugs then low traverse right under the bush into and up Corner Arete, Pumpy!

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.

The obvious left-leaning crack line starting at the corner of the buttress.

The bolts are well placed just were you need them. uses the same anchor as "Power start"

Up face 4m left of arete

Sit start with left foot in crack finishing up RD1.3.

Obvious corner crack in middle of crag. Straight up the crack and through the roof at the top. Sustained good moves and good rock the entire way up. Tree belay well back.

Start: Low flat crimp line down and right of the start to the previous problem. Gaston small seam, reach for very small 2-finger crimp LH, and small slopey crimp up and right. Then jug.

Sit start at a small edge and pinch. Climb the pocketed wall, gently heading left and up.

The ironstone sheeted wall right of Orangutang is climbed past a bolt (crux) to a break, finishing via a second bolt near the arete. Start either from the crack on the right (21) or a hard pull on the arete (23).

Off the ledge