Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Stand start project on the right of the boulder finishing as for Car Parks. Right hand on good hold, left hand on nothing good

Sit start with right hand on slopey arete, left hand low on bad crimps, harder than it looks

The right arete.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Jerry-start v4 Sit-start V8

Sit start on good horn hold in the centre of the wall, make some big moves to mantle

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Right side of arete to DBB

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Open project. Needs bolting. Could be great!

S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose.

A harder line the traverses the crackli

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

Sit start at the left of the low face and finish at the top of arete.

To the left is a steeper harder feeling project. Getting off the ground might be the crux.

Start as for Reverse Mortgage but head right to finish on the bulgy arete, could be a scary finish above the slope.

Pitch1:15m, Pitch2:16m, Pitch3:40m, Pitch4:30, Pitch5:20m, Pitch6:25m, Pitch7:50m, Pitch8:35m, Pitch9:35m, Pitch10:20m, Pitch11:50m, Pitch12:35m, Pitch13:32m, Pitch14:40m, Pitch15:37m, Pitch16:27m, Pitch17:30m, Pitch18:22m, Pitch19:30m, Pitch20:40m, Pitch21:37m, Pitch22:20m

Originally graded 25, sources now say this line is 27. Regardless of the grade, it climbs good quality stone up an arête to a ledge rest, then a thin slab headwall crux. Quite nice!

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors

Climb the chapel of ghouls then at the roof head left to a pumpy and burly finish up to the anchors of dans project. Watch out for rope drag and extend the draws in the roof and just below. Adds difficulty and brilliant roof moves onto the original line.

Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape.

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

Start as for FS or CE. Climb FS to the 2nd last bolt (long draw here) and keep trucking right, across the colourful face. The anchor is under the lip of the Thunderdome; top out and check out the second cave above. “Good energy opens projects”!

Short and punchy. A main crux hold broke off in about 2005. It is now about 26-27.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

Beautiful line taking the centre of the perfect orange wall. Delicate, slippery face climbing. Much harder if you’re short. Probably classic

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

Start from edge, up and right on small holds in seam.

Stand-start matched on the same blocky starting hold of 'Popping Bubbles Traverse', traverse into the beginning of Blowtorch, and top-out overhead.

Stand start and up the right side of the shield using slopers.

Sit start right of Raw Beauty and throw to the incut or alternatively, use thumb press to progress. Need a big reach.

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

Reach dependent sit start at right end of dyke. V4 if you stack to reach jug, V4/5 if you can reach the good edge mid height on the dyke, V6 from slimps at base of dyke.

Pink(?) holds

Hard start on small and sharp holds in the middle of the wall. One mover dyno to mantle top out.

Lip traverse, starting on righthand end, topping out at the highest point on slopers.

Prominent roof boulder over the Takaka river. The roof is like honeycomb Every time you climb it you find a new sequence! Loads of people have made it across the roof, but it is rare that someone makes the difficult move pulling over the lip. This is what gives it its V5/6 rating. Legend has it that the first ascent was done by a dude on acid listening to a walkman!

Start as for Bicep Warmer, stay low and climb into the start of Bicep Burner to finish as for BB.

Start with Franks Route, climb up to the plate and finish with Maestro

Start on Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf and reverse Du Hast to its start.

Start with four points of Dirty Dancing, climb Du Hast and finish with Maestro

Left side of nook. Sit start at large undercling and slopey rail, also using the low block for feet. Up then mantle?

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

Everybody loves a good long problem. Starts on a box shaped hold that has a good undercling at the bottom and a good incut on top. Dyno a bit right for half a hueco feature (reachy) with your right hand. From here follow the weakness (big holds) of the wall all the way to the top. 5 moves before the top there are a couple of jugs. Left and right exits initially considered same grade. Left hand exit is the original line and is quite hard. The more common exit is right with a much easier sequence.

Start low on the obvious rail. Follow the line of semi-decent (semi-exploding) crimps to the lip. RH Arete is out.

Start deep inside the boulder cave on two good hand jams at the start of the crack. Climb the crack to the very top. Choose your own nightmare!

Sit Start at base of arete. A hard move off the ground does not let off until good holds at the top of the boulder. Sent back in the day but never written up or repeated since. Grade to be confirmed.

Sit start on left hand side arete. Traverse right into the start hold of the V3. Keep traversing right and one on the good hold on the slab had up and out. Tricky first half leads to a cruisy finish.

Sit start on small side pull and crimp below Gluten Free Doobies. Make hard first move to big jug on gluten free doobies and finish up this

Sit start as for Chasm Spasm, traverse all the way across left and keep going to finish out through Chicken swing ding

Open Project. Scary and feeling exposed with rock below. Undercling up to a left sloper and right pinch then undercling to a fist jam crack climb.

Sit start just right of ‘effervescence”, (just left of tree), using the flake embedded into the ground for your left Hand and feet, and the edge for your right Hand. Steep start up into “Effervescence”.

Slopey pocket mantle L of the big tree and prominent nose (opposite side of boulder to above problems), not using the flake embedded in the ground. V12 if you use Madoc's original sequence and stick your R Foot above your head!

Short wall just L of the above problem. Starts off a small edge and then up via some slopey dishes. Desperate.

Essentially Nasty Knob, without the right-hand sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopers at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopers to gain the horn. Reachy last move.

The face and arête just left of tree. Start standing on the flake embedded in the ground, with slopey sidepull for left-hand and incut tooth for right-hand. Reachy and hard move up and right to the sidepull and up. Reach dependant start.

Direct finish to Coccyx. Move straight up through fingery holds. A hold broke, potentialy harder now.

Sit start on the lower bloc. Traverse L to gain obvious sidepull jug and dyno to holds up high. Probably nicer as a stand start.

Small and stings.. A two move problem up the steep 50* roof, starting low on obvious sidepull in middle of face. Big move to lip and top out.

The offwidth roof crack formed between the boulders of the Gravity Project and Brahe's Bubble. Start on the other side in the hand crack, then through the roof offwidth to fist crack, and find your way up

A short but burly sequence up the bulge. Start in a sit with the crimp rail.

Oliver Rickford Jsbc

Stand start with horizontal crack and improbable feet. A very reachy move straight up

Start as for 'Shinkansen' but blast straight across the gap, linking into 'Metro-Papineau' at the drop down.

Tough for shorties, easier for those with albatross like wingspans. Adds a good hard move for the start of metro and gets the pump flowing early on!

Sit start underneath the right side of the cave (looking from the outside of the cave). Pull on with a cool little ironstone crimp LH and a RH sloper rail. Do some powerful moves up into the steep tube, finishing on the central juggy flake, inside the cave. The rock on the back of the cave is all out, on the ground. Think about bridging across.

Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left.

Sit start on side pull and undercling, shoot out right then traverse left to top out standing on the right side of the boulder

Stand start right hand shallow sidepull, left hand on the arete.

From the same low start of Bacon and Ooffs, crank straight up into the V corner. Chicken out with a traverse right when established to finish up Bacon and Ooffs.

Sit start with LH on side pull, RH on large sidepull. Follow the rail to a exciting top out over the lip.

Sit start for Gakusei, small crimps and a big sloping slap.

Squat/stand start matched on the slopy pinch, move left through small crimps to a large throw to the lip. Mind the drop.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start low then up and right

Sit start with flake into the stand. Adds a hard move to the stand.

Sit start on the juggy hold in the back and then out trending right. Strenuous mantle to finish.

Sit start on flat edges. Tricky starting move. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=97

Sit start with slopers and good feet. Awkward moves traversing right and to get around the corner and join the east crack of ‘split’

Sit start on the far left as 'Count Your Blessings' and traverse right to finish up 'Toe the line'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU

Sit start on flat rail (doesn't make much of a difference, but the original start is from the lowest of the two horizontal rails with a long-ish move up the the higher rail). Up through the roof with the flake system. Finish matched on the underclings (boulder problem is a drop off).

Can be linked into the the trad route 'Crosswords' - making 'Local Anaesthetic'

Julz

Start right in the back of the roof. Wrestle the wide crack out of the roof and top out.

Start far under the fridge roof with right hand on the good edge and left hand as low as possible on the slopey arete. Slap your way to glory! Great little compression low ball https://youtu.be/FZwnkZ2pZlw?si=gIMufhtQcxiZKLcH&t=113

Sit start on blocky rectangular feature on the right. Dyno out left to the jugs. Top out around the corner or straight up for a bit of extra scare factor. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ?t=2m7s

Sit start as for ‘The Arete’ climb up then link right with a long move to the jugs and top out as ‘High Times’