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East face

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

East face is steep to overhanging with harder but spectacular climbs.

Access issues inherited from Dolina Rybiego Potoku

It is recommend to reserve parking at Palenica Białczańska in advance.

Approach

To get to the east face, walk on ledges below the north face, then continue with very exposed traverse with fixed ropes (20m, grade 4) to get to ledges in the middle of the west face. You rap around 60m to get to routes starts.

Ethic inherited from Tatry Polskie

Usual ethic of alpine climbing and mountaineering.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 6
2 7-
3 5+
4 5+
5 4

Original start is on the ledge, but two more pitches (5+, 6) can be added if you rap off route Luftwaffe.

FA: Maciej Gryczyński & Adam Szurek, 1961

1 7
2 6+
3 7-
4 5
5 7
6 4

This is a logical combination of several variants along the central crack:

  1. Zacięcie Biela (7), slightly overhaning finger crack with bolts, 20m

  2. Skośne Zacięcie (6+), corner crack with bolts, 30m

  3. Rysa Hobrzańskiego (7-), incredible slightly overhaning flake, all trad, 40m

  4. Corners (5), all trad, 20m

  5. Zacięcie Kosińskiego (7), finger crack over compact granite waves. Couple of cruxes, the last being often wet, all trad, 40m

  6. Finish (4), 60m

Personally, this is the best climb in the whole mountains.

FA: Hobrzański, 1970

1 8
2 8
3 V

Although bolted, it is worth to take some micro nuts and friends.

FA: Bernard Uchmański & Joachim Wachowicz, 1963

1 7
2 6+
3 7
4 8
5 8-
6 8-
7 7+

Fully bolted.

FA: Piotr Korczak, Andrzej Marcisz & Tomek Opozda, 2006

1 5
2 5
3 7

Kosiński 1973. Start Międzymiastowa. Fixed belay points.

FA: Kosiński

FA: Maciej Robakiewicz & Jan A. Ziemilski, 1950

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Tue 30 May
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