Showing all 30 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence - with Wei Gao | 11m, 6 | |||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Chicken shit | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Chicken Mama - with szuk, Wei Gao | 6m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
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Wed 20th Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | |||||
Bouldery and thuggy, but gave it a good old try on top rope. Will take a lot of work before I can finish it, let alone lead it, but fun to have given it a try.
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Fri 15th Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
ABCD | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Lau Shu La Gui - with Cat A | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 8th Dec 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Homage | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Finding KitKat - with Cat A | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Two goes working this stunning line. Still a bit lost on the very last moves
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Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | |||||
Spent the last half hour finding a new project for myself. Didn't make it two draws in.
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Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
American Pie | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Rainmaker | 20m, 8 | |||||
Suggest rename to 'Painmaker', god those crimps at the beginning are dire. Fought with it for a while before moving on - need a load of time to just practice the beginning sequence, which feels really hard. But fun, will keep working on it.
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Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Third Kid | |||||||
7a | ★★ Good Friday - with Cat A, Eoin | 24m, 7 | |||||
Starting to make sense
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Sun 1st Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
American Pie | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Rainmaker | 20m, 8 | |||||
Top rope solo.
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Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Homage | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Nanometer | 6m, 3 | |||||
Not sure if this really was a tick or not. I led all the way to the clip before the anchor, clipped and then got stuck and had to pull on the draw to clip the anchor for a lower off. But then a few people said that there's not much else you can do to reach the anchor. Anyway - there's at least one more solid move I can get on this before getting to that point (which I couldn't get) before I'd consider this one a tick.
Fun start, gets harder and harder. |
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Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
American Pie | |||||||
7a | ★★ French Controversy | 6m, 2 | |||||
Arghghggh!!! Gotta work out that one move! 🤪
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Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
Closed Project | 10 | ||||||
With blowtorches
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Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Lost World | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ River Crossing - with Al Bear | 15m, 4 | |||||
Really cool moves down low, into a crux which I couldn't solve. Jugged up to try the interesting but insecure moves higher up. The whole climb could use a good clean.
Interested to come back for this.
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6c+ | ★★ River Crossing - with Hamish | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty filthy but good fun in a sort of aspirational kind of way. Clearly not 6c+!
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Sat 15th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Homage | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Homage - with Hamish | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
American Pie | |||||||
7a | ★★ French Controversy | 6m, 2 | |||||
Just enough time to give it a bash before we had to leave. Loved it - couldn't make the crux, holes in the toes of the worn out shoes don't make the little footholds any easier, definitely coming back to this when I've got them replaced, this slab is lovely, wish there were more around.
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Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose Right | |||||||
6a | ★ Tu Shang Xi Lou | 25m, 10 | |||||
Urgh, super wet on the lower section, got stuck somewhere around the third or fourth bolt from memory - above a big flake. Tried a whole bunch of stuff but in the end couldn't stick the move so had to pull on the quickdraw to get past that move. The rest was fine, but was done in after so long trying the crux. I reckon if I could get the sequence right the rest is actually not too bad.
Rubbish placements for gear on the ground, had to faff for ages, would recommend trying other spots for rope solo. Two holds are going to pop any day, marked both with a cross, when the higher one is gone the crux of this route is going to be a mare if you are not very tall. |
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Thu 2nd Apr 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Third Kid | |||||||
7a | ★★ Good Friday - with Kang | 24m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th Mar 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Third Kid | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Third Kid - with Cat A | 26m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Spent a lot of time gardening the route (pulling out shoots) and figuring out the moves. A couple of tricky moves on this one ...
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Thu 19th Mar 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Chicken shit | |||||||
6c | ★★ Jugs For Africa - with Al Bear, Kang | 9m, 3 | |||||
The moves go, but the idea of clipping is a fearsome prospect
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6c | ★★ Jugs For Africa - with Hamish, Kang | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
New beta gives two options for the crux, both of which are hard.
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Thu 12th Mar 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Acrophobia variation | 7m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Ongoing LRS.
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Thu 20th Feb 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Third Kid | |||||||
6b | ★★ Devil's hand | 25m, 8 | Average | ||||
Clip stick’d my way to the top over a mere hour and a half, rigged to rope for TR solo only for it to then rain heavily. FML. On the upside, learned a lot about jumaring and that I like the climb to the right more, so not a total waste of time. Calling this ‘working’ as there isn’t a tick for ‘an age of faffing then getting soaked’.
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Thu 30th Jan 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Third Kid | |||||||
7a | ★★ Good Friday | 24m, 7 | |||||
Top rope solo: Working the moves on a shunt and realising that I'm weak A.F.
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Tue 24th Sep 2019 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Rock Star | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Wing of redemption | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First burn on the route today, got up to 4th bolt through some pretty sweet bouldery/dynamic sequences (can start to understand the route's name). Have yet to work out the sequence leading into the roof. Suspect that's the actual crux rather than the roof itself.
Bolts on the climb look very solid, but the perma-draws on them are in bad shape. Some have gates that are so badly corroded that they don't snap shut. We removed one particularly dismal-looking carabiner so that people won't go clip into it. Please equip with own draws. Looking forward to working out the rest of this monster! |
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Sat 16th Feb 2019 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Solid V4/5 crux after a 10-move 6b/+ sequence into a decent knee-bar (can clip the second bolt from this position). Pretty much bouldering on a rope.
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Thu 12th Jan 2017 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Rock Star | |||||||
6c | ★★ I Want to be Famous | 10m, 4 | |||||
6c | ★★ I Want to be Famous - with Climb that turkey | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sun 6th Dec 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
Boring and meaningless | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | |||||
Sat 25th Jul 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | Pigs In Space - with Climb that turkey | 20m | Average | ||||
On TR, pulled on the rope to clear the crux. Fair amount of loose rocks.
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Showing all 30 ascents.
Route is very clean, please come and climb all the routes so the routes remain clean and wont be overgrown.
Left hangar is loose, but bolt is feels secure. Chains have signs of rust but no signs of pitting. If building an anchor, please have at least 1 point on the right hangar. Will tighten the bolt at the next opportunity.