Routes in Singapore

Follows the cracks to the left of boring and meaningless, can traverse right to the anchor

Start from the ground between Acrophobia and Desperado, straight upward to first bolt. Use the crack on the right hand side for side pull and traverse left towards the ledge. SS Anchor located at the right side below of Acrophobia's. Harder proposed variation: stay on the rock face and eliminate the crack side pull on the right hand and fully commit on the rock face crimps towards up the ledge.

Eliminate - Start on the crimpy beginning holds of Tales of Power, bearing left towards the right most crack of Desperado. Use the leftmost features of the face and the right hand edge of the crack to make progress upwards, staying well left of the bolts. Once you gain the horizontal ledge, rejoin Tales of Power on the thin flake to the finish at the bolted anchor.

Follows the open book corner. Keep strictly to the right all the way to the top. As of 1/7/2020 a large hold at the bottom of the climb was hanging off and was removed (by the FA’s) to protect others. This has increased the initial difficulties somewhat, but the climb retains its original character (just at a slightly more taxing grade).

Starts 2m to the right of the And Justice for all crack, taking in the face all the way to the top. Follow the line of the bolts. Loose rock abounds. A serious proposition for a sport climb that is not reflected in the grade.

A Dairy Farm classic comprising technical face climbing.

Scramble start to a line that follows two parallel weaknesses in the rock. Work up to a natural break with two obvious (suspiciously perfect) handholds. Move right and mount the protrusion. Staying left, insecure moves bring you a large ledge. From here some powerful moves to reach the anchor.

Feb 2021 update:-

static sling thread protection is no longer there. A cam can be used to protect the last move to the anchor. A BD Camalot #2 (Gold) size fits well.

The first half follows the same line as 'Living Water', at the 5th bolt stay right and climb to the anchor on the vertical wall.

Route shares the first 5 bolts as 'Take it Easy' and then traverses to the left. Details originally posted here.

Stay left, up the gully. Very overgrown.

Can be climbed with slight variations. As noted in the "Climb Singapore" guidebook, the bolts were originally placed as a "secondary protection" to help beginners learn to how to place traditional protection. This explains why the 2 separate lines of bolts are everywhere but where you need them.

Climb the hand-crack, joins Lucky Draw Dihedral at the top, where it shares an anchor.

First move off the ground is reachy and likely the crux of the climb. Lots of rests on the route to allow you to place protection. Shares an anchor with Jam Bang.

To the right of lucky draw dihedral. Runs up the steps then left onto the face and follows the crack in the middle of the vertical face and the edge of the arête to the anchor. Requires micro-cams or ball-nuts to protect the crux move.

Good for just topping off practice for beginner. Moss have been cleared.

Totally overgrown

Starts right on the slab and traverses up and left to the crack, then up and over the obvious flake to the anchor. Since rockfall to the right opened the canopy the lower half of this climb is now overrun with vines.

The left most climb, starting on top of the ledge. Takes an ascending rightward line to a bulge, then proceeds direct to the anchors (swapped from rap bolts to a 10mm 316 load rated chain and mallions to mitigate the edge just below) Be careful of loose rocks (as always at DF).

Need to climb the platform from the left and rig a trad anchor above the face. Moves are extended and tricky.

The second bolted line from the left on the shelf. The crux is the bouldery section through first two bolts before it merges with Struggle Bus to the anchors. Make sure to stick clip the first bolt or risk a serious mangling as you hit the ledge then the deck. Can be combined with Chicken Shit to go from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Unstable rock on the first pitch but fun climb. Two chains but some rusty anchors, and now obstructed by a fallen dead tree that needs to be removed. Second pitch is slabby, then vertical. Second pitch has no anchor and ends at a small bolt and impossible to retreat without leaving gear. Old aluminum locking biner there left by previous climbers.

From the far left of the step go up a set of twin cracks then bear right onto cleaner rock before going straight up to the anchors. Warning - this route has lots of loose rock and failure to bear right will lead to dangerous rock.

Second pitch is overgrown and has lots of loose rock. No anchor visible.

Runs up the ledges to the right of the main crack. Quite mossy. Guidebooks say Trad only but appears to be recently bolted.

Note: I think it's 11 bolts, but might have remembered wrong. Take a few extra just in case.

Turtle is overgrown and now has a bees nest mid route, and those stings hurt. Give it a miss.

In remembrance of Wolfgang Güllich †.

Homage extension (this route combines the two pitches on Homage)

Start from side-pull and crimp. Do not use separate rock on bottom left as a foothold and do not use top edge (top out on top left corner). (Update: left foot chip for starting is gone, may be due for an upgrade)

Start from side-pull and crimp. Do not use separate rock on bottom left as a foothold.

Same as I Need Coffee! but you may use separate rock on the bottom left as a foothold and must start matched on the side pull.

Sit start with compression of arete, move right hand up to good pinch/edge for first move.

Stand start to the left of the ledge, follow ledge to top out.

Start on right crimp and lower left sloper, climb up the edge and top out.

Start on the lowest crimps, slabby moves to top out.

Sit start on obvious crimps, big move out left to small edge. Top out.

Start on holds to the right side of the boulder, traverse left then top out.

Start with two crimps on the right inside cave then top out at the centre.

Sit start on small crimps to top out.

Sit start on crimp and ledge then top out.

Start with left hand on crimp under the ledge and right hand on right side edge, climb up crimps and top out.

Start on left side, traverse right along crimps, around the arete then top out.

Start on the lowest crimp then climb and top out.

Sit start on low crimps, traverse along edge and top out before the overhang.

Sit start on low crimps, traverse along edge past the overhang and top out on other side.

Sit start on low crimps. Follow along Bebop then Rocksteady then traverse further right and top out.

Sit start with no arête. Start by left hand on side crimp and right hand gaston on the low crimp.

Start on the 8mm crimp side pull and go straight up.

Start to the right of large ledge, traverse left then climb up and top out.

Start on the far left, climb left then up.

Start on lowest obvious holds on left side of boulder, slabby climb to top out.

Same start as Gumby, go up and traverse right. Use only main face (not top ledge) until reaching top out position.

Stand start on thin ledge, slabby climb to top out.

Start under overhang on big horizontal crack, move left then up to top out.

Same start as Grinch, travers right and top out on right side.

Sit start inside the cave on the crimp and climb out, continuing Andy Hulk.

Start on incut to the right of Grinch, head straight up and top out while avoiding the ledges used for Grinch.

Sit start, climb up ledges and top out.

Stand start on big ledge at the lower part of top boulder, throw right then top out.

Same start as Meja Berita but come out under the boulder to the left side and top out.

Start in cave on bad crimps to the far left, top out.

Start in the cave on side-pull below Solo Boy, top out.

Start at top of boulder pile, traverse along the ledges and top out.

Start to the far right on large side-pull, traverse to the left then top out.

Sit start on the nice crimp on the left, move up to top ledge and traverse all the way right and top out. Potential for falls when topping out, ensure it is well padded and have someone to spot you!

Stand start on the lowest foothold on the left of the boulder. Slabby climb straight up to the highest ledge to top out awhile avoiding using the side ledges on the way up.

Jam yourself into the 'shelter' and start on the lowest right underling. Climb straight up, avoiding any holds past the long thin line of crack between Blessing in disguise and Rock Shelter.

(Unknown route) This is the route of the left of the face of the slab.

(Unknown Route) This is the short route on the right of the slab. I believe it is just the beginning of "Art of Noise" but finishes just at the top of the slab, rather than moving around the back.

This route goes up the crack on the right of the slab, then up and around the back of the crag. According the guidebook it tops out - so be aware there is no anchor. At last check the section after the slab is completely overgrown so may be safer to avoid.

(sketchy) Traverse across the American Pie wall, starting from the Top of Pitch 1 on Stepping Up ABCD Wall. Finishes on top of American Pie.

Full 2-pitch climb starts at bottom of ABCD finishes on top of American Pie.

Climb the easy slab to make the first high bolt. From the slab, step out right to gain the face. Higher up traverse right. Route shares the anchor and last bolted protection with Rainmaker.