Showing all 30 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Top rope | |||||||||
6b | Pigs In Space - with Climb that turkey | 20m | Dairy Farm | Average | Sat 25th Jul 2015 | ||||
On TR, pulled on the rope to clear the crux. Fair amount of loose rocks.
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6a | ★ Tu Shang Xi Lou | 25m, 10 | Dairy Farm | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||||
Urgh, super wet on the lower section, got stuck somewhere around the third or fourth bolt from memory - above a big flake. Tried a whole bunch of stuff but in the end couldn't stick the move so had to pull on the quickdraw to get past that move. The rest was fine, but was done in after so long trying the crux. I reckon if I could get the sequence right the rest is actually not too bad.
Rubbish placements for gear on the ground, had to faff for ages, would recommend trying other spots for rope solo. Two holds are going to pop any day, marked both with a cross, when the higher one is gone the crux of this route is going to be a mare if you are not very tall. |
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Closed Project | 10 | Dairy Farm | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | ||||||
With blowtorches
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6c+ | ★★★ Finding KitKat - with Cat A | 18m, 10 | Dairy Farm | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Dec 2020 | ||||
Two goes working this stunning line. Still a bit lost on the very last moves
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7b | ★★★ Wing of redemption | 25m, 8 | Dairy Farm | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Sep 2019 | ||||
First burn on the route today, got up to 4th bolt through some pretty sweet bouldery/dynamic sequences (can start to understand the route's name). Have yet to work out the sequence leading into the roof. Suspect that's the actual crux rather than the roof itself.
Bolts on the climb look very solid, but the perma-draws on them are in bad shape. Some have gates that are so badly corroded that they don't snap shut. We removed one particularly dismal-looking carabiner so that people won't go clip into it. Please equip with own draws. Looking forward to working out the rest of this monster! |
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6b | ★★ Devil's hand | 25m, 8 | Dairy Farm | Average | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | ||||
Clip stick’d my way to the top over a mere hour and a half, rigged to rope for TR solo only for it to then rain heavily. FML. On the upside, learned a lot about jumaring and that I like the climb to the right more, so not a total waste of time. Calling this ‘working’ as there isn’t a tick for ‘an age of faffing then getting soaked’.
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6b+ | ★ Third Kid - with Cat A | 26m, 8 | Dairy Farm | ★ Good | Sun 29th Mar 2020 | ||||
Spent a lot of time gardening the route (pulling out shoots) and figuring out the moves. A couple of tricky moves on this one ...
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7a+ | ★★ Rainmaker | 20m, 8 | Dairy Farm | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | |||||
Top rope solo.
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7a+ | ★★ Rainmaker | 20m, 8 | Dairy Farm | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | |||||
Suggest rename to 'Painmaker', god those crimps at the beginning are dire. Fought with it for a while before moving on - need a load of time to just practice the beginning sequence, which feels really hard. But fun, will keep working on it.
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6b+ | ★★ Lau Shu La Gui - with Cat A | 25m, 8 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Jan 2021 | ||||
7a | ★★ Good Friday | 24m, 7 | Dairy Farm | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | |||||
Top rope solo: Working the moves on a shunt and realising that I'm weak A.F.
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7a | ★★ Good Friday - with Kang | 24m, 7 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Apr 2020 | ||||
7a | ★★ Good Friday - with Cat A, Eoin | 24m, 7 | Dairy Farm | Fri 6th Nov 2020 | |||||
Starting to make sense
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7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | Dairy Farm | Sun 6th Dec 2015 | |||||
7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
Solid V4/5 crux after a 10-move 6b/+ sequence into a decent knee-bar (can clip the second bolt from this position). Pretty much bouldering on a rope.
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7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | Dairy Farm | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | |||||
Spent the last half hour finding a new project for myself. Didn't make it two draws in.
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7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | Dairy Farm | Wed 20th Jan 2021 | |||||
Bouldery and thuggy, but gave it a good old try on top rope. Will take a lot of work before I can finish it, let alone lead it, but fun to have given it a try.
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7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence - with Wei Gao | 11m, 6 | Dairy Farm | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
6c | ★★ I Want to be Famous - with Climb that turkey | 10m, 4 | Dairy Farm | Thu 12th Jan 2017 | |||||
6c | ★★ I Want to be Famous | 10m, 4 | Dairy Farm | Thu 12th Jan 2017 | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Acrophobia variation | 7m, 4 | Dairy Farm | ★ Good | Thu 12th Mar 2020 | ||||
Ongoing LRS.
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6b+ | ★★ Homage - with Hamish | 10m, 4 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Aug 2020 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ River Crossing - with Hamish | 15m, 4 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | ||||
Pretty filthy but good fun in a sort of aspirational kind of way. Clearly not 6c+!
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6c+ | ★★ River Crossing - with Al Bear | 15m, 4 | Dairy Farm | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | |||||
Really cool moves down low, into a crux which I couldn't solve. Jugged up to try the interesting but insecure moves higher up. The whole climb could use a good clean.
Interested to come back for this.
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6c | ★★ Jugs For Africa - with Hamish, Kang | 9m, 3 | Dairy Farm | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Mar 2020 | ||||
New beta gives two options for the crux, both of which are hard.
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6c | ★★ Jugs For Africa - with Al Bear, Kang | 9m, 3 | Dairy Farm | Thu 19th Mar 2020 | |||||
The moves go, but the idea of clipping is a fearsome prospect
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6a+ | ★★ Nanometer | 6m, 3 | Dairy Farm | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | |||||
Not sure if this really was a tick or not. I led all the way to the clip before the anchor, clipped and then got stuck and had to pull on the draw to clip the anchor for a lower off. But then a few people said that there's not much else you can do to reach the anchor. Anyway - there's at least one more solid move I can get on this before getting to that point (which I couldn't get) before I'd consider this one a tick.
Fun start, gets harder and harder. |
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7a | ★★ French Controversy | 6m, 2 | Dairy Farm | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | |||||
Just enough time to give it a bash before we had to leave. Loved it - couldn't make the crux, holes in the toes of the worn out shoes don't make the little footholds any easier, definitely coming back to this when I've got them replaced, this slab is lovely, wish there were more around.
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7a | ★★ French Controversy | 6m, 2 | Dairy Farm | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | |||||
Arghghggh!!! Gotta work out that one move! 🤪
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6a+ | ★★ Chicken Mama - with szuk, Wei Gao | 6m, 2 | Dairy Farm | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | ||||
Top rope solo to continue szuk Wei Gao efforts of cleaning the route.
Route is very clean, please come and climb all the routes so the routes remain clean and wont be overgrown. Left hangar is loose, but bolt is feels secure. Chains have signs of rust but no signs of pitting. If building an anchor, please have at least 1 point on the right hangar. Will tighten the bolt at the next opportunity. |
Showing all 30 ascents.