Ascents in Dairy Farm

Great fun up the freshly cleaned route by Hamish. The layback crack crux is a classic.

Second ascent trad lead. Beautiful crack and lots of protection. Used the tree to get past the blank slab start.

Climbed with double ropes to minimise exposure, which worked well. The crack starts small and gets bigger, meaning a range of cams is perfect. Lots of fun climbing the crack!

Bit grubby but still some of the best cracks in DF

Great climb. Ants best behind the first flake. Couple rusty bolts near the top, though I hear it's getting rebolted soon.

Crux was damp and bloody difficult. Also lots of loose soil and ants on each ledge.

Clean ascent. Muscle memory from years ago kicked in!

Care when scrambling up to platform before first bolts. Watch the mossy areas on the right. Water seeps through the cracks now and then..

shoulderey goodness

Urgh, super wet on the lower section, got stuck somewhere around the third or fourth bolt from memory - above a big flake. Tried a whole bunch of stuff but in the end couldn't stick the move so had to pull on the quickdraw to get past that move. The rest was fine, but was done in after so long trying the crux. I reckon if I could get the sequence right the rest is actually not too bad.

Rubbish placements for gear on the ground, had to faff for ages, would recommend trying other spots for rope solo.

Two holds are going to pop any day, marked both with a cross, when the higher one is gone the crux of this route is going to be a mare if you are not very tall.

Somewhere along the route "Oh sh*t I've underestimated this route"

Worked out the crux but it look a couple of tries, after the third clip it's mostly smooth sailing, the lower section has some fun pumpy moves. Next time will try for the redpoint.

Onsight attempt went slightly awry when placing a draw at the crux, gripping it a bit too long while clipping and simultaneously slipping in filth (although not pulling on it) to look myself in the mirror and call it perfectly clean. Rock was pretty filthy, route was ok but let down by choss on its left and the very easy nature of the climb with only one tricky move. 4c all the way to and from the crux, then a single 6a+ move straight out of a boulder problem, then back to 4c again.

Whoah! What a little gem! Was expecting a nice gentle relaxing mooch up the dihedral, but was surprised to have some pretty tough feeling layback moves. This is actually a really nice climb - there's a lot of choss on the face on the left, but following the crack up gives you a nice chance to practice some interesting movements.

LOTS of loose rock! Lead climber must pay attention to not put the belayer at risk.

Dangerous

Got spooked on the last 5m of dirty chossy crack and traversed over to the west tower. We did some gardening but the right flake at the top is loose and dangerous.

In places it has nice moves. Overall the route feels quite sketchy, even on TR. Would be brilliant if the loose rock was removed.

Awkward but rewarding. Rusty chain on pitch 2.

Struggled on the crux of the 1st pitch

Anchor at the top of pitch 2 is full of rusty tat and pretty dodgy, had to blow a sling to rappel.

The route includes a couple of 'pegs' and gear-shaped 'hold' that have been left behind, presumably to pull on? 'Peg' atop P1 gets in the way. Another 'peg' and 'hold' combo make the first move on P2 much easier.

Top of second pitch has a crappy anchor.

Edit 07-Mar-2020: changed from flash to redpoint as I mistakenly thought this was a flash

Definitely not a 6A like in mentioned on the guide, 5M traverse to the right after ladder, Belayer was anchored to the bolt beside starting flake. Insane Thumb press / 2 finger crimp in the middle.

Bit of a nightmare. Eaten by ants at the bottom, hard to find anything decent to rig a ground anchor, muddy as hell. Must've spent 45 minutes trying to work up to the halfway point, feet slipping all over the place. Eventually decided to down-climb to one of the least dodgy looking bolts to retreat.

Feels much tougher than 6a, lots of mud and water, very dubious bolts and large sections of the left hand side of the route look like they could crumble away - take care if trying this one, plenty of risk of pulling out rocks or pulling off holds... Maybe another time, maybe I'll leave this one.

Morning Shadow destroyed me, and Tiger Cliff finished the job. Conditions were poor, incredible choss after the rain. First pitch only.

Easier going now it's dry. Still muddy and a but chossy on top, but worth it for the fun moves. Not the 'warm up' I expected, typical Dairy Farm 6 . Took a couple of falls getting over the bulge to the first anchor and an unexpected fall on the second pitch when a handhold came off (it's not an essential one and there are other options). Good route to practice your mantling and pushing on - use your feet and arms and press up rather than pulling too much on holds. To whoever replaced the gear on the top thank-you, makes for good anchor now.

by night, nice

Excellent climbing. Bolts are old but still okay.

took a fall early on, and went full tilt afterwards

This route destroyed my will to live. I have absolutely no idea how to do the first half, and the second half killed my arms with huge throws. Bits were breaking off, but I can imagine it at its prime. Up to first pitch only.

Found it harder than Alarette with a few steeper sections through the bulges. Required a bit of thinking through some sections.