Routes in Sands of Time Wall Right

Climb the obvious crack / recess just left of Little Mouse. An extension is possible but will require the placement of rap chains (10mm holes have been drilled in anticipation).

This is an extension of the Stopykes Revenge crack, climbed as a single pitch with chains at the top. Take small cams and wires for the top.

Climb the right-hand side of the large flake and then follow the dyke to chains of 1st pitch of Scorched Earth.

There are two bolts at the bottom.You'll need some cams and then slings to lasso the horns on the dyke closer to the top.

This route climbs the face to the left of first pitch of The Scorched Earth dyke. It is around 50 meters down to the left of Sands of Time first pitch. It can be climbed as an alternative start to The Scorched Earth.

1. Climb the face on painful holds to the top of the big shark flake. Smear up to a bolted anchor.

Starts just right of Little mouse and goes straight up.

It is possible to climb only the first and second pitch and abseil down to the ground (The Vanguard route), it makes a great two-pitch route. The third pitch can be done as an aid pitch (A0) which reduces the grade to 19.

1. 6 Bolts Follow the dyke to a bolted anchor.

2. 10 Bolts Step left and climb up to a bolted anchor.

3. 12 Bolts Freeclimb until bolt 4, then aid for 3 bolts (19 A0), before continuing to free climb. Or free the whole pitch at grade 25.

4. 13 bolts

5. 5 bolts, Climb the left line of bolts, the right line being Sands of Time.

From the anchor at the end of pitch 2 of The Scorched Earth, climb straight up the groove rather than up and diagonally right. Abseil off.

This route is just the first two pitches of The Scorched Earth.

An alternative start to The Scorched Earth. A mega long pitch, joining at the third stance of that route.

Very run out! Top roping first is advisable.

Climb the long recess/chimney to the left of Jovian Thunderbolts (chains at the top).

1. 9 bolts. Climb the dyke from the bottom of the wall until able to reach the first bolt. Or just start directly below the first bolt. Climb up keeping an eye to traverse (crux) to the right (going straight up brings the grad to 22 to Jovian Direct). Climb diagonally right upwards to the anchor.

2. 6 bolts. Smear up to the anchor.

3. 11 bolts. Climb the crack downwards and go around the corner to pull up (crux) to some goodish holds and head all the way up to the next set of anchors at the dyke of the third pitch of Sands of time.

4. 4 bolts. Smear up to the top.

A direct variation to Jovian Thunderbolts, joining that route at the second stance. Take some long slings to avoid rope drag so that you don't blow the onsight

1. 18 bolts

2. 11 bolts, Shared with Jovian Thunderbolts.

3. 5 bolts. Shared with Jovian Thunderbolts.

Notoriously run out. Take an extra pair of underpants!

1. 6 bolts.

2. 2 bolts.

3. 3 bolts.

Just to the right of The Ring Route

A must-do mega classic!

1. 4 Bolts. Climb the slab, heading leftward after bolt number 4 to reach the chains near the trees. Don't wonder off right.

2. 7 Bolts. Drop into the gully and climb the obvious superb soaring dyke above on good holds.

3. 4 Bolts. Climb out left and traverse with your hands level with the dyke, past two stances (The Ring Route and Jovian Thunderbolts), to a comfortable stance below the Dyke

4. 7 Bolts. Climb up the right-hand line of bolts (left line is The Scorched Earth).

"The two Jeremy's were in fact the first to climb the upper Sands of Time traverse dyke but instead accessed it via a large flaring crack coming in from the right" Start: Either climb the first pitch of Sands of Time, or scramble up into the Splitter Gully. The route begins below a large crack / groove moving up diagonally left.

1. No bolts. Climb the potted face to gain the diagonal crack / groove and follow it left to the 2nd stance of Sands of Time.

2. 4 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

3. 7 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.