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Routes in Weasel Wall

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Stairway to Heaven
1 19 35m
2 19 35m
3 18 40m
4 18 40m
5 17 50m
6 11

Start at the lowest point on the wall on the far left-hand side.

  1. 12 bolts

  2. 9 bolts

  3. 9 bolts

  4. 8 bolts

  5. 10 bolts

  6. 2 bolts

FA: Dave Davies, P. Gaertner & Josef Mayer, 2005

Sport 200m, 6
19 Josef's Birthday Party
1 17 50m
2 16 45m
3 15 40m
4 19 35m
5 16 25m

I strongly recommend climbing this route with two ropes or/and taking along slings to avoid the intense rope drag you will have in the first pitch if you don't do so. This route is less run out, more technical with longer pitches than "Hannes Rebirth". A fun route.

  1. 50m, 10 bolts. Above some big blocks climb a crack that bends diagonally left keeping attention to go up before the anchors that is further in the same crack (these anchors belong to another route). Smear up and then diagonally left to the left of a short groove. Smear up and traverse right once above the groove to the anchors.

  2. 9 bolts. Climb up and diagonally right following the bolts towards a long crack that opens up (coming from the ground) becoming a small ledge. Make your way to the face and smear up the black/dark green wall to another small ledge.

  3. 5 bolts. Smear easy rock to a bigger ledge. One can bail here and avoid the 19 pitch by climbing an easy bolted (grade 11) traverse of the Garden Route to your right.

  4. 11 bolts. Smear up the face just right of the box that contains a book to log your climb. Follow the bolts balancing your way up in a beautiful sequence of moves to the anchor.

  5. 6 bolts. Follow easier rock to the top.

FA: Mike Scott & Josef Mayer, 2005

Sport 200m, 5
15 Rastus
1 15 13m
2 12 16m
3 10 55m
4 15 10m
5 10 55m
6 15 5m

Start: As for Josef's Birthday Party.

  1. Climb the dyke until it eases off and you can see where the second pitch (a traverse) breaks to the right. A belay is found higher up the dyke.

  2. Traverse right to a small stance and (bad) crack for a (useless) peg.

  3. Do an easy traverse up and to the right to reach a large dyke / chute.

  4. Follow the chute until it steepens abruptly.

  5. Continue up the chute or creep up the right-hand wall to the ramp above.

  6. Climb the ramp to the crest.

  7. Six meters left of the final pitch of Weasel there are some small holds which can be used to pull up to the top.

FA: James Marchant & John Knight, 1970

Trad 150m, 7
14 Weasel
1 14 33m
2 14 66m
3 10 100m
4 14 3m

Start: 40m right of Josef's Birthday Party on top of a large boulder leaning against the face.

  1. Climb the chute to a vague pocket in the chute. An old peg may be found about five meters up on the left. Belay from a large nut in the chute.

  2. Continue up the chute to a large flake.

  3. Continue up the crack until it fades out; traverse left into the next crack, and continue to the top of the crack.

  4. Down the other side of the crack are small layaway grips which enable you to reach the top.

FA: John Knight & James Marchant, 1969

Trad 200m, 4
19 Hannes's Rebirth
1 17 30m
2 16 25m
3 15 50m
4 19 35m
5 16 25m

This route is less technical than "Josef's Birthday Party" but much more run out. If your goal is to test your psyco level, this is a good route. The first bolt is around 9 to 10 meters high, so you have been warned! Also Tony Laurens book says it has 4 bolts on the first pitch but it actually has only 3 plus the chains, making it more run out. The climb start on the top of some big boulders leaning against the wall.

  1. 3 bolts

  2. 4 bolts

  3. 7 bolts

  4. 8 bolts

  5. 4 bolts with no chains. You will have to belay from one bolt, build an anchor from the beacon at the top or use the chains from "Josef's Birthday Party" at your left. Again this information is not in Tony's book.

FA: Josef Mayer & Mike Scott, 2008

Sport 170m, 5
15 Garden Route
1 11 40m
2 8 15m
3 9 50m
4 1 5m
5 11 40m
6 1 20m
7 8 40m
8 7 40m
9 1 23m
10 8 50m
11 1 100m
12 1 25m
13 15 50m
14 9 45m
15 1 20m
  1. 4 bolts. Climb down diagonally left to the little garden where you'll find the record book.

  2. 1 bolt. Climb diagonally up to the stance of Stairway to Heaven.

  3. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally up to anchors.

  4. Abseil to the ledge below

  5. 4 bolts. Follow the leaning pillar up and left.

  6. Walk across the slab to stance at a flake at the highest point.

  7. 3 bolts. Slab walk down to a little garden in a gully.

  8. 1 bolt. Walk diagonally up to a big garden.

  9. Abseil to ledge

  10. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally down to the terrace above the Parklife Wall

  11. Walk slightly diagonally left to a rest camp among to some bushes.

  12. Walk diagonally left to a stance with an anchor.

  13. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally left to a stance.

  14. 3 bolts. Move diagonally left and up.

  15. Walk easily up to the horizontal crack and up.

FA: B. Mayer, M. Mayer, Josef Mayer & Mike Scott, 2008

Sport 560m, 15
19 Climb Don't Walk

Climb (solo) the slab / face about 30m to the left of Carlito's Route.

FA: Jeremy Samson, 1989

Trad 50m
16 Smear Don't Climb

Start: 15m left of Carlito's Route, 4m right of a little quartz knob. Climb (solo) the slab moving through a first and then second bulge in the rock.

FA: Stewart Noy, 2005

Trad 50m
12 Walk Don't Run

"Make it a real challenge and do it in your approach shoes" Start just left of Carlito's Route and follow (solo) the easiest line to the top.

FA: John Knight, 1970

Trad 50m
15 Carl's Route

"Not sure what this was supposed to be?"

FA: Carl Kritzinger, 2001

Mixed trad 10m, 3

Showing all 10 routes.

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