Routes as sport in South Africa

This route takes the crack up the corner of the open book. Climb easily up to an awkward exit. The chains provide an easy ab point to access the routes in this area.

Retro-bolted in 2007.

Retro bolted in 2007

Retro bolted in 2007

This line takes the arête on the right of the scramble down at the end of the crag. Start among the trees at the bottom of the crag and directly below the prominent arête above. Climb the right-hand edge of the prominent crack / chimney to the chockstone and then up onto a platform of rock - about half way up the scramble. Continue straight up the arête above. Gear is very sparse, but adequate.

Description courtesy of Peckham, Camp, et al.

Start 4m to the right of 'Jungle Bunny' and 3m to the left of a huge, bushy crack that runs the full height of the crag. Start at the white arrow and move up diagonally right as holds allow you to. Steep with rounded holds, and virtually no protection. The anchors are easily accessible from the top, so setting up a well worthwhile top route is a good option.

Description courtesy of Peckham, Camp, et al.

Recently retro-bolted (without FA's permission, it seems).

This route is about 10m past the fenced off area on the nose at the end of the main crag. Climb the obvious crack line that runs the full height of the crag. Bomber gear if you have plenty of cams and hexes for the crack (but sometimes not where you want it). This line has also been retro-bolted without the permission of the first ascensionist. There is a set of anchors at the top of the route, not easily accessible from the top.

Description courtesy of Peckham, Camp, et al.

Start at the large flake leaning against the face about 40m beyond Snake Bite. The first bolt is at the top of the flake, some medium sized trad gear can protect the first 10m (the climbing is very easy, though).

Do not stop at the first set of chains on the first pitch - these are for abseiling off, continue to another set about 10m to the right.

There is no hard and fast rule about where this route goes as long as you stay in the left-hand crack. The right-hand crack has been climbed at about the same grade but is unnamed.

Good route through a roof section into exposed face climbing.

Video of Seth Donald

Go direct at the bolt through the first roof onto crimps.

Seth Donald

David M

Impossible start if you're under 7ft tall. Use a cheat-stack to reach the good hold. 23 if you're pumping the creatine.

Short, bouldery, awesome sequence

Slab with one small roof. Don't detour to left of roof, climb straight up and over.

Fantastic and varied climbing.

2 small roofs to overcome.

A spectacular climb for the grade.

Scramble up to the start of the climb