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The Tempest Wall

  • Grade context: SA
4
SA

Description

Above the Pacific Ocean Boulders on the main face with fairly good rock apart from the very bottom section of about 2m. Slightly overhanging rock, many pockets and edges on these routes. The wall is usually dry even during rain.

Access issues inherited from Swinburne

The area is on private land shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please contact the owners prior to accessing. They are friendly people and welcome climbers to the property. Please call Ansie on +27 (0) 82 926 1155 to arrange access. Be sure to book before arriving and pay before leaving. A day visitor fee may apply. Avoid bird nesting sites on the main crags.

Approach

Access is via the Whale Rock Boulders but keep going uphill, don't take the right hand path that goes to The East End but rather head up and slightly left.

Ethic inherited from Swinburne

Testing was done a few years ago on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm can be used. Please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will not be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested and not always found to be sufficient. Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts as there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Some of the routes are still bolted with unrated U-bolts and some dodgy placements can be found, but for the most part all routes are safe. If you would like more information about bolting in this area please contact the Mountain Club of South Africa.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 29
2 28
3 26
4 25
5 25

Follows an overhanging line up a series of pockets. Started in 2003.

Set: Andrew Pedley

FA: Andrew Pedley

A really hard start and a technical mid-section. Originally opened, as Maelstrom, by Andrew Pedley, but after a major break on the route it was reopened by Brian Weaver.

FA: Andrew Pedley & Brian Weaver

Set: Andrew Pedley

Follow the line of bolts up the sustained wall, take care clipping the second bolt. A bold line on the far right of the crag.

FA: Mark Millar, 2003

A natural line used to establish the anchors. It goes up the obvious corner, take care on the hanging column as it seems to be loose.

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Sun 28 May
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