Wolfmother's Wallpaper 21 A0

The route is situated on a clean face midway between A Time to Climb and Long Bolt to Freedom. There is a faint inverted V crack line (gable) which marks the start of the climb. This fun route incorporates a full assortment of varied climbing in which the grade remains fairly consistent throughout. Although the route has seen some extensive cleaning, it is still advisable to wear a helmet (as the wallpaper might peel off occasional). The route also seems to be more sheltered from the wind than those on the north-west side of the mountain.

1. 21 [9D,A] 14m Climb the left hand hypotenuse of the inverted V crack line until the apex. Continue straight up for a few meters further until the hanging belay is reached.

2. 21 [9D,A] 16m Continue up the face, slightly right of the open book, using some bold moves untiljust before the first overhang is reached. Note** Combining the first two pitches is possible if the guns are loaded and carrying 21 draws is not a problem.

3. A0 [5D,A] 8m Several bolts have been placed just over the lip of the overhang in order to assist with aiding. One needs to stand in some long slings and pull on a quick draw or two, in order to gain access to the anchors above. Note** In future, it is hope that this section can be bypassed by bolting a line which traverses out to the left and back again. Note** Freeing this pitch might be in the mid 20’ies, so give it a burn.

4. 21 [14D,A] 28m This pitch incorporates a cruxy technical section of approximately 5m near the bottom. The grade then starts to ease off. Traverse out to the right one bolt before the abseil anchors to reduce drag for the next traverse pitch or continue up straight if attempting the roof.

5. 18 [8D,A] 15m Climb the rib on the right of the overhang section. Traverse out left above the second large roof, once you have pulled through the lip on some large holds. This fun pitch provides some exposed climbing (which can be interesting if the wind is howling). Note** A more direct approach (which has been bolted) is to climb straight through the overhand thereby averting the transverse across the top of the roof. Grade 22 ???.

6. 18 [10D,A] 25m Scramble to the base of the top section of the cliff. Climb the face leading onto some protruding rock features (to the right of the big nose). Tricky take-off move.

7. 16 [4D,A] 8m Climb through a bulge on the right from which the top is reached.

Note** Possible to combine these 2 pitches but there will be a bit of rope drag on the top section.

Abseiling: A 60m rope will reduce the number of abseils. There are several combined pitches which reach exactly 30m (take care and knot the ends) – it takes 4 abs to get off. It should be possible to ab off using only 1 50m rope by abbing only one pitch at a time. With 2 50m ropes, it should be possible to get off in 3 abs.

Testing was done a few years ago on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm can be used. Please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will not be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested and not always found to be sufficient. Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts as there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Some of the routes are still bolted with unrated U-bolts and some dodgy placements can be found, but for the most part all routes are safe. If you would like more information about bolting in this area please contact the Mountain Club of South Africa.