Routes as sport in Cape Winelands

The right hand line.

Open

Linkup of Chongalolo and The Legend Of The Lost Italian Climber

left wall right route

Key holds have broken off

Some holds have broken off since FA.

Start up Stem Gem, before moving out right to follow the line of bolts on the blunt arête.

"The stuff of dreams; a spectacular spear-arête adorning the western corner of the hillside"

1. 15 bolts

2. 8 bolts

3. ? bolts

left wall middle route

Climb Strange Days and just before the anchors, move on to The Activist.

https://www.climbing.co.za/2018/01/old-projects-opened-by-andrea-biffi-in-montagu/

Clinton Martinengo

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MJ sending The Scream. Video by Thomas Luger

FA post on Facebook

Illona Pelser on Instagram: "31 maybe 32 (SA Grade), One of the most unique hard routes in South Africa"

Clinton Martinengo (Link): "An amazing route very unique to Paarl Rock ... I personally think it 32". Video

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Groundfall potential when clipping chains

Tristan Van Der Merwe

Climb the arête

Monkey Pump into Ben Dover

Climb the bottom crux of Monkey Pump up to the rail (3rd draw), then move left onto Ben Dover (clip its 4th draw) and climb up to its 6th (extend it), then traverse left onto Cool Like That at the big sloper height (4th draw) and climb up to the top.

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Phlip Olivier (phlip olivier)

Start on Judge Dredd and finish on Mona Lisa Overdrive

Requires lots of extensions

Topo and Info

Topo and Info

right route

The left hand line. You can step onto the shoulder at 2/3rd height.

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Climb Ben Dover bottom crux up to the rail (4th draw) and then move right onto Monkey Pump. Fun climbing

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Video: Matthew Hill

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'Delete Button' onto 'Yankee Rose'.

Extension of Burning Chrome

📹 Christo van Zyl

📹 Video

Beta video by Oan De Waal

Video: Matthew Hill

Turn right at the second bolt of A Bronx Tale and continues until the intersection with The Baseball Bat Treatment, finishing with the latter's crux.

Climbs and clips the first three bolt and first crux of "The Pressing Romance" then brakes out hard right cross the chossy looking gully. The rock is solid despite how it looks and finishes with a red point crux as the last move. Thanks Colin for the belay and fun afternoon - Clinton Martinengo

Start on 'Rad and Bad' then end on 'Point Break'. Makes for a much more mellow route, enjoying the 'Point Break' crux without the deep pump.

A chipped route that was ironically chipped by Guy Holwill.

An awesome line that is probably a bit harder these days due to holds breaking off.

1. 10 bolts. Start up the slab, continuing up and diagonally right via three flaring parallel cracks.

2. 8 bolts (project)

Starts left of Eurotech, follow pockets, crimps and mono's to chains. *NOTE: Sections of the route was manufactured by unknown persons some decades ago from what we were able to figure out. Leave it (and a rant/debate re manufactured lines) alone, it was a different time, it was done well and it forces some brilliant, creative climbing. It's part of the history of climbing at Paarl.

Does not use left crack. Consensus grading needed.

Link up from Awake to Last Ride of the Day. Extra bolt indicates where to move left. Consensus grading needed.

Traverse in from 'Neurogenesis' (un-clipping 'Neurogenesis' quickdraws as you go to prevent rope drag).

Thomas Luger

Jan Fischer

Tian le Roux

Loftie Ellis

Luke

Wesley

Extension of Delete Button

Start on 'Rad and Bad', on to 'Point Break', then left past a new bolt to join at the crux of 'Whoa She Poopie'. Thanks to Willem le Roux for placing the bolt and Ruan for the name ;-)

Linkup: Start up Baseball Brat and finish on Taxi Ride / The Baseball Bat Treatment.

📹 Video