Vie come sportiva in Cape Winelands

Open

Pumpy.

Tricky.

shares 1st 4 bolts with Flintstones then go up right from the ledge

Climb the right arete of the lower face. After the ledge above this arete, stay on the face of the slab above, using the right arete once again. Moving off the face of the top slab (into the corner around the arete) will take you onto 'Bonfire Arete (Alternate)'.

Climb the lower arete as for 'Bonfire Arete'. After the first bolt above the large ledge (above the lower arete), move right of the upper arete into the corner. Climb in this corner, only moving out of it to reach the anchors.

Requires lots of extensions

We have added quite a few new glue-in bolts for the run-out sections.

Glue-in bolts have been added to the runout sections, making the route a lot safer and more enjoyable. Route has also been given their own set of glue-in lower-off's

Great line. We added bolts to make it safer.

GENERAL Newborn is the only sport route at Yellowwood. It was bolted by Sean Maasch in the late 1990's. Jeremy Samson added more bolts in 2007 and opened the route with Jimbo Smith in 2009. At the time of writing (November 2017) the route had seen four known ascents, none onsight. Climbing Newborn requires a big effort and good conditions. The route gets sun from about 11h30, although pitches capped by the big roofs above the halfway ledge are shady for longer. It can bake in summer once the sun hits. Rock quality is generally excellent. The route does not see much traffic, so expect the occasional hollow flake or precariously balanced boulder. Cracks get overgrown in winter. All stances have bolted belays. Most pitches finish on comfortable ledges. Bolts are spaced on easy ground, but close when the climbing gets harder. The first and last pitches can be combined to save time. No pitch is longer than 35m, most are much shorter.

GEAR A 60m sport rope and 18 draws are needed to climb and descend Newborn. Half ropes work well for parties of three. It allows for hauling a bag and makes it easier to get down (see below).

The route starts approximately 20m right of Show Time. Two large, white boulders mark the spot.

1. [18]: Easy climbing over gentle ground. Watch out for loose rock.

2. [19]: Short, easy pitch. Can be combined with the first.

3. [25]: Thin crux section, then easy climbing to a ledge.

4. [24]: Short pitch with sustained, technical climbing to a hanging belay.

5. [26]: Traverse right from the stance to skirt the first roof. Blast past two overlaps and up a delicate corner to the stance. Packs a punch.

6. [27]: Tricky face climbing leads to an open book and easier ground. The start is harder for shorties. HALFWAY LEDGE

7. [22]: Awkward scramble over bad rock. Comfortable, shady stance.

8. [28]: Superb pitch with a very long reach at the crux. Ends in an uncomfortable hanging belay.

9. [24]: Sustained climbing past the big roof. Stunning, shady stance.

10. [22]: Short, easy pitch that ends at a semi-hanging belay.

11. [27]: Revenge of the shorties. Super technical.

12. [25]: Climb up left to clip the poorly placed bolt above the overlap. Then come back down and pass the overlap by heading diagonally up and right (crux).

13. [15]: Ascent the pleasant slab, then scramble up the bushy gully to anchors at the summit. Can be combined with pitch 12.

DESCENT Getting back to the ground require multiple abseils. There are three viable options:

1. Newborn - Abseiling down the route is the only option when using a single rope. It is straight forward to rap from the halfway ledge, but gets complicated higher up.

2. Down Time Abseil Requires 2 x 60m ropes. Six pitches. Better than rapping the route.

3. Timerity Abseil - See description elsewhere on the Wiki. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Three easy raps. Fastest way down, but requires walking.