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This route heads up the arete 30m to the right of the cave.
30m 18. Climb the wall that faces onto the ledge at cave level. Head slightly right and up to a stance.
25m 18. Up and right.
30m 18. Climb up to the roof and head out right into an airy situation. On the crest head up over the bulge above angling left. A really fine pitch in a spectacular position.
100m 10. Directly up to the summit.
Descent: From the top head left over the top of the mountain. Descend the east side to gain a descent gorge. Continue down and keep taking the options leftwards (facing down). Make one rappel. At the base of the cliffs turn left to regain the cave or head down to the river.
The route follows a line up the right-hand side of the middle turret in the big red amphitheatre. Scramble up white rock to a higher ledge. The route climbs up and diagonals across left to the big roof.
Climb up to a flake and traverse right to a small grey face. Move up left to a crack and a ledge with blocks.
Traverse diagonally left over flakes and climb up to a small roof. Continue moving left to a narrow ledge.
Climb the bulging grey face on the left and move back right into the open-book. At the roof rail left to a cubbyhole.
Climb up on the right into a groove. At the top a long traverse left along rails leads to an easy break up the grey face above. Move left to a large ledge below overhangs.
Pull through the roof in the corner and continue up to the next set of roofs. Layback up to a long cave-like ledge (the 'Block Pitch').
Rail along left to a short corner. Move up to the roof and swing around right-wards. Climb the face above.
Climb the corner and the left-hand face of the open-book to a trick move across to the right-hand face. Move across to the right-hand arete and up to a ledge.
From the level of the ledge a finger-rail traverses the wall on the right. From the recess at the end move up and climb diagonally right over grey slabs to a ledge below a water-worn chimney [Variation: (15) instead of traversing the finger-rail, move up from the ledge for 2m to an easy handrail. Traverse right and continue up to the grey slabs].
Climb into the chimney and continue up, exiting left. Walk across to the top of the ramp on the right.
Move up and traverse right onto the main face. Climb the jugs tending rightwards to the top.
Descent: scrambling and two rappels down the gully between the main and the right-hand turret leads directly back to the start of the traverse line.
FA:T. Barley, R, R. Barley, M. Scott & D. Hartley, 1969
The route starts on the right-hand side of the main amphitheatre, in a crack system on the left-hand side of a pillar, above some trees. The line traverses the grey ramps above Apollo, and breaks through the roofs to the right of that route and below a prominent 'V'.
Scramble up to where the climbing begins steepening.
Climb the crack, moving left past a horrendous layback and make a hanging belay where a line of incut holds lead out left.
Traverse left. Move around some flakes and step down onto a block to continue traversing left until possible to move and back right to a blocky stance.
Climb up for 5m to where a finger-rail allows a traverse left into a corner. A tricky move up and left gains a rest, from where further traversing 15m left allows climbing up and back right to a stance.
Climb up on the right. Pull through a small bulge. Move up and traverse right to a stance.
Stand up on the block and pull up to the handrail. Rail left and pull through the roof on layback holds. at the next rail traverse left to a small stance.
Traverse left and move up to the roof. Climb out to the lip past two pegs, and continue to a stance.
Climb up on the right. Continue straight up and traverse right along the slab. The final two pitches are as for Apollo.
Climb into the chimney and continue up, exiting left. Walk across to the top of the ramp on the right.
Move up and traverse right onto the main face. Climb the jugs tending rightwards to the top.
Descent: scrambling and two rappels down the gully between the main and the right-hand turret leads directly back to the start of the traverse line.
The route takes a spectacular straight line up the middle of the Central Turret. The 200m or so of rock is superb, with fine, sharp holds. Points for nut runners and belays are good. A sickle-shaped break is the key to the overhangs. This leads to a water-worn groove, or large duct, running through the summit rocks, from which the route takes its name.
Scramble to the big ledge below the sheer rock face and start about 18m to the left of the prominent pillar belonging to 'Via Normale'.
30m 'E3': Climb the break, heading for a ledge with a
buchu tree below a prominent chimney on the right of a big flake. Traverse to the left below the flake, then step down, layback up, then traverse to the right and pull up to a small ledge on a corner next to some blocks.
22m 'E1': Step up on the left, then bear diagonally to the right across the face up to the long 'Breakfast Ledge'.
13m 'E3': Pull up slightly along the ledge to the right,
move slightly to the right, then back diagonally and up to the left over a bulging face to a stance at the bottom of a V-shaped recess, where an old ring piton is to be found a bit higher up.
28m 'F2': Step up on the left-hand corner, traverse to the
left under the overhang, do one swing, then pull up onto a face by using a concave flake on the left to get up. Move back to the right and climb a straight face to a good stance.
18m 'E3': Slightly up and to the left there is a big flake. Step up on this and then to the right on to a system of big layback flakes forming a tower. Climb up to a small ledge on top. ('Centrale' also climbs over this ledge after climbing the white face next to the tower for 3 m, then traversing to the right and moving up.)
13m 'F1': Pull up (awkward take-off) into a short crack.
Step up onto a platform forming a crack with loose blocks on it. Move up and traverse to the left around a bulge and up to a huge flake. Climb up on top of this.
32m 'F2': Climb straight up a steep orange-brown,
knobbly face to a horizontal rail where a fixed peg was left. Step up on the right to get the arms into an awkward jamming crack with a slippery, sloping slab next to it. Stretch right around a bulge for a finger-grip. Traverse into a corner. Avoiding pulling the loose prong off the ledge, use a good grip next to it to pull up onto a little shelf. Stand on the loose prong for extra height and using horizontal rails on the wall, stretch up for a small 'hole-grip' under the overhang. Once the good rail is reached, traverse to the right and pull onto a platform on the corner, which juts out above the whole cliff.
30m 'F2': From the right-hand end, pull up onto the face.
Climb up to a handrail, swing along it to the right across a sloping slab into nowhere. Pull up a bit higher, then swing round the next bulging edge, which has a good rail over the top. Traverse around a corner into a bottomless chimney, which is climbed. The last metre is very bushy and sandy as this chimney forms part of the duct which traps the water seepage.
40m 'E2': Climb a short chimney between large rough, sandy boulders, with a chockstone jammed on top. Climb a huge chimney cleft directly above and exit through a wormhole to the top.
The lower portion of the face of the Central Turret is clearly divided into three sections by two distinct ribs of rock. The rib on the left is short, an 8o-foot pillar that forms the start of the Via Normale: while that on the right, considerably higher, constitutes the major sections of the Via Diretta. Between them lies an amphitheatre of smooth, light-grey slabs sweeping up to merge eventually into the red overhangs beneath the summit. This is the start of the Via Centrale. The beacon that marks the foot of the first pitch will be found approximately 100 feet to the right of some large blocks leaning against the face at the base of the amphitheatre, almost directly below the prominent grey rib that provides the key to the final sections through the overhangs.
40 feet 'B': Climb diagonally left up a short crack and sloping face to a narrow, horizontal ledge cutting right across the amphitheatre.
70 feet 'D': Walk left along this ledge until it peters out. A further is-foot dassie traverse, step-down and climbing traverse, where the horizontal slit is blocked, leads to the continuation of the ledge.
3o feet 'D': The ledge ends 6o feet to the left beneath an obvious recess. Move diagonally left into the recess and tip a short chimney to another broad ledge. Walk 200 feet to the left to the base of a steep, lichen-covered face immediately to the right of the So-foot pillar on the Via Normale.
120 feet 'F': The Lichen Face. Climb the recessed corner next to the pillar for 25 feet before working diagonally right and up the grey, lichen-covered face to a band of small over- hangs on the same level as the top of the pillar. Continue straight up over a loose block inserted in the face and up a rather scruffy face to a small stance.
20 feet 'D': Easier rock to the left leads to the bottom of a 60-foot ramp sloping diagonally up to the right just above a large tree. Scramble to the top of the ramp.
30 feet 'E sup.': A short vertical face is ascended on the right of the ramp to the level of a thin traverse leading back to the left. Traverse eight feet to the left on small grips, climb up 4 feet, and then descend diagonally to the left behind packed blocks to a narrow ledge. As an alternative, it is also possible to climb directly on to the ledge from the ramp by mean of a small fault to the left.
40 feet 'C': Scramble diagonally to the left up a series of short steps to another similar ledge. An old abseil piton of ours serves as an excellent belay for the next pitch.
25 feet 'E sup.': Near the left-hand extremity of the ledge, an awkward crack gives access to a one-man stance directly below the overhang.
6o feet 'F sup.': The overhangs stretch out a long way on either side of the stance, but by traversing 30 feet to the left it is possible to outflank them. It is advisable to place a running-belay after the initial 8-foot hand traverse as no other resting place is available until the end of the traverse has been reached. Once reached, however, good handholds make the pull-up on to the face above quite easy. By working diagonally to the right again one emerges on a comfortable platform from which direct contact can be made with climbers on the previous stance.
35 feet 'F inf.': Move up to the smooth face on the right of the stance, over sonic loose blocks, to a high handrail that enables one to traverse left for about 12 feet before descending diagonally left to a narrow ledge beneath another large overhang.
6o feet 'F': Traverse to the left around the corner, move up six feet, and then continue diagonally to the left up the short, vertical face above. A final delicate move past a loose block lands one on a small stance in a shallow recess.
6o feet 'E sup.': Climb the white face on the left of the recess for 15 feet. Now traverse to the right back into the recess and step across and around the corner on small grips to an easy face which leads to a ledge broad enough to accommodate the entire party. This is the continuation of the 'lunch ledge'.
35 feet 'E sup.': Step off the flake on the left of the ledge and climb diagonally left for six feet before working back to a one-man stance 10 feet beneath the overhangs and slightly to the right of the start of the pitch.
70 feet 'E': This is the first pitch along the Traverse of the Eagles. Continue traversing to the right for approximately 45 feet to a large detached flake on a level with the foot rail. Using this flake, step on to the face and mantelshelf up to the continuation of the traverse six feet above the flake to the right.
50 feet 'E inf.': Traverse further to the right over slabs. Near the end of the pitch climb up six feet to an uncomfortable sloping stance.
70 feet 'F': This is the last pitch on the Traverse of the Eagles. Another 35 to 40 feet of traversing on the same level brings one to the base of a short, overhanging recess. Climb the recess and around the small nose. Descend diagonally right to a narrow ledge with a loose block on one side.
50 feet 'F and A2': Ten feet to the right of the stance move up six feet to a sloping ledge (artificial, i piton). A delicate traverse to the right lands one at the base of a smooth recess capped by a series of small overhangs. By climbing straight up the recess to the second overhang, one can escape to the right on to a narrow catwalk sloping diagonally up to the right (artificial, 6 pitons). Move around the corner to the right and climb up a few feet to a narrow, two-foot wide ledge.
70 feet 'F and A2': The Yellow Recess. Traverse to the right into the base of a 45-ft recessed corner closed in at the top by a large overhang. Ten feet of free climbing leads to the first bulge, which is climbed mechanically (artificial, 3 pitons) before moving up another 10 feet to a straddle position beneath the second bulge. Now continue up to the roof and then traverse out to the left under the overhang for 15 feet (artificial, 12 pitons). Exit on to a narrow ledge on the same level as the overhang. Six feet to the left it broadens to form a more comfortable stance.
35 feet 'D': Climb eight feet up the side of the triangular flake overlooking the stance and descend the other side. Traverse 20 feet further to the left.
60 feet 'E sup.': Move 20 feet diagonally to the left up a lichen-covered face to a short, grass traverse beneath a projecting nose. A series of strenuous layback movements up the vertical crack in a bulging face complete the pitch.
45 feet 'D': The shallow, bushy gully on the left is climbed to a stance at the foot of a narrow chimney behind a huge block.
15 feet 'D': Climb through the chimney to the top of the block and scramble to the summit where a beacon will be found.
The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.
80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.
85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).
60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.
and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.
Same as pitch 4.
100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.
60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.
120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.
40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.
120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.
50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.
120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.
The route runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the centre. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.
Start: under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.
[16] 35m
Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree.
[17] 40m
Above the tree, swing to the right (17/18) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp.
[18] 40m
Climb up to a recess to the right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp.
[17] 30m
Continue up clean rock to a big ledge. Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar.
[20] 35m
Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (11), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).
[21] 40m
Ignore the jagged crack, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.
[18] 30m
Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W).
[22] 35m
Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in place). Climb the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right to avoid rope drag.
[18] 15m
Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right.
[18] 35m
Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantelshelf move onto a ledge.
[18] 35m
Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left, until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance amongst blocks.
[19] 40m
Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W.
[21] 30m
Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners. Stance slightly to the right of the previous stance.
[18] 15m
Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline. Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.
[17] 40m
Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.
[12] 20m
Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge. The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.
[18] 45m
a) 45m: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.
Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face. b) 45m (16): traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.
"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) Grade-22 routes."
"It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prusiking.
Scramble up the first pitches of Renaissance or North by North-West to the big ledge. Start on the front of the Renaissance jam crack pillar.
Climb the crack/recess system and continue up to the top of the pillar. Scramble to the next ledge directly above.
The Dark Wall: Follow the vague break leading rightwards through steep grey rock. Stance in the recess.
Relief. Step right and climb directly up to the highest ledge. Start right of a long block.
Uncertainty. Climb up and left over uncertain rock, then up to a narrow ledge. Keep right and continue for 12m to a small narrow stance. Traverse 12m left to belay at a hollow slab (peg).
Climb leftwards for about 8m. Starting beneath a black roof rail 13m right to a recess which is climbed to a small ledge with grass and a block.
Climb up for 3m from the left end of the ledge to the roof, pass it on the right wall, and continue up and left. Go diagonally rightwards to reach more laid back rock (original Renaissance A4 pitch).
After an awkward take-off climb up the broken face.
[14] 40m
Continue up the recess which is slightly left of the corner. Continue up to the base of an easy recess.
[12] 25m
Climb up the recess to a ledge. Note: the first three pitches are pretty straightforward and obvious and leads you to the base of an enticing looking jam crack in grey rock. DO NOT climb this, but move a long way left as per next pitch.
[13] 40m
Traverse left around the corner. Step across a gap and then walk left to the base of an easy looking recess.
[13] 30m
Move up the recess and then over broken ground to a ledge. Walk right and scramble to the top of a pinnacle.
[17] 45m
Tiles pitch - Climb right across a delicate slab, then up a corner to a small ledge. Climb up 3m, followed by a traverse to the left under a small overhang. Continue up a steep bulge (past an old peg) to a narrow ledge, then up slightly left and do a series of moves back up diagonally right to a stance. The 'Smith-Rutowitz Variation' to the original 'Tiles' pitch can be climbed as follows:
6a. 12 (20m) Walk left and climb the crack in a recessed corner to the stance.
6b. 16 (40m) Climb up on the right to the overhang above. Traverse right with hands at the level of a doubtful block to a ledge (full use of the block reduces the grade to 14). From the top of the 'Tiles' pitch or the 'S-R Variation' walk right along the ledge and scramble up between the wall and a distinct pinnacle.
[18] 20m
From the top of the pinnacle perform an awkward take-off and pull-up. Move right and reach up high from a low lay-away hold. A piton can be found here (this section is about as hard as the 'normal route' gets). Then traverse 3m left and up to a rib/face to a stance (the 'Suitcase Stance').
[20] 10m
From the stance descend a meter or so, then traverse right and up into a crack. Climb the crack to a semi-loose block and climb out on the left and up to a sloping stance. Note: the original line took the short, obvious, but off-balance and strenuous layback directly above the stance ( good cams/wires, climbing at grade 20). A slot hidden beyond the top of the layback helps one to heave up to a sloping stance.
[16] 30m
From the stance, step up and left to avoid a small overhang. Pull up a short recess. Up 4m, then follow an inconspicuous traverse right for 5m. Climb the steep slab on the right, then move left and climb a crack to a stance below a Y-shaped crack.
[15] 45m
After an awkward take-off climb the Y-shaped crack to a large platform. Move right, up an undercut flake, and then left to an edge. Climb easy ground to another large platform.
[15] 45m
Above and to the right is a big corner/recess, capped by an overhang. That is where you want to be. Traverse right and then angle delicately across the white slab to enter the recess about 15m above the level of the ledge. Move up the recess until it is possible to traverse right (before a seemingly more obvious traverse line), exiting around the corner to a stance on a large ledge.
[12] 20m
Walk right for a short distance and choose the easiest line up a very pleasant yellow face to a narrow ledge. Note: an alternative line not as far right provides delightful climbing at about grade 16.
[16] 30m
Walk left along the ledge for 10m to its left-hand end. There is a shallow recess capped by a roof up and left. Don't be intimidated - go up and left around the corner. Ascend the recess for about 3m then step left onto a corner. Traverse left under the roof and up to a small ledge. Climb up and out right on a water-worn face to a stance. You are at the top of the route.
Start: On the far left side of the crag is a bright orange scooped face. Start in the left facing corner. climb stright up and step left to gain a crack. Climb thi to a few rails and move right when forced. Climb up and back left then stright up. Move 2m left at the top to top-out.
Scramble to finish.
Start: Dirrectly below a 'v' notch which continues into a crack.
Start as specified and move diagonally left then back right to gain the notch, then through the crack. Step right and up to the top to stance. Scramble to finish.
Start below the long overhang about 10m up. On the right is a bush, start below and right of this on a brown face. Climb up and left then straight up to the bush, thru the break, then easily to the top.
One of the better routes in this sector. Has 3/4 distinct cruxes
Start at the base of a small right facing corner. Climb into this then up thru steep blocky rock to gain a good ledge. Climb the left tending break, skirting the overhangs at the top.
Start below the prominent nose with the triangular roof.
Climb up to the right facing thin corner and beyond to the overhang. Traverse right till able to access a platform below a chimney.
Climb up to a chimney with a crack to the left. You can either climb the sweet crack (harder) or the chimney to a ledge. Climb a short ramp to access the continuation of the chimney to the top.
Start below the left-hand side of the recessed face.
Head up the indistinct dihedral-tricky for the grade.
Climb the wide crack/ layback, exit right at the roof and up easier ground.
Start left of the right side of the recessed face.
Climb up to the ledge and head right up the blocky break to access the crack.
There is a bolted rap point at the end.
Start below the arete to the right of the recessed face.
Climb between two tall blades of rock to some horizontal prongs. Move left onto the arete and left to a seam. Pull on beautiful incut holds to the rap station.
Start 4m right of 'Helter Swelter' Climb through a few overlaps to access the base of twin cracks. Climb the left crack to finish at the rap station. Line is pretty direct start to finish.
Start just right of Hot Stuff. Climb to the left of a prominent projecting block to gain the block arête to the right of the 'Hot Stuff' recess. Follow the v-shaped grove up the featured arête and then straight up easier ground to the top. Belay by two convenient Protea bushes.
Start at the base of a small right facing corner, climb this up to the ledge where you will find the crux. Pull thru this and climb diagonally right up the ramp.
Start 10m left of the right-hand end of 'Heatwave Wall' up the gully.
Start climbing from the left up a featured ramp, heading for the vague open book. Once at the tree climb the break on the right-hand face skirting the overhangs by keeping right.
Start 3/4m left of the acute corner, climb the slab past the lose/ keyed block. Above and left is a diagonal break/ crack. Climb through this then easy scrambling over large blocks to Stance at the base of a prominent lay-back crack/ corner.
18 18m
Climb the crack/ corner then easier ground to access a vegetated slope. There is a massive block to your right, behind this is an abseil point.
From the Burnout Wall walk through some shrubs and trees towards the scree belt. Reconnect with the vined wall. The route starts on the left-hand side in an acute corner. Climb up towards the protruding blocks to top out on Lucifers Ledge.
Access the Lucifer Ledge.
Start on the left-hand side of the Burnout Wall. Climb the corner passing a bush to the roof. Exit left to access the face and go directly up overhanging terrain and up to a bottomed (small ledge 0.5X 0.5m) left-facing corner at the very top. Veering left drops the grade and the quality of the route dramatically.
I strongly recommend breaking this route in 2 pitches. The crux is a 23 traverse that is very far away from the anchor which leaves the second in a terrifying situation of rope pulling you in the wrong direction while performing the crux. Amazing route though. Traverses, cracks, roofs and vertical technical climb on the same route! Lots of fun! The crux is protected by bolts.
Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Step out left onto the Arête and climb up to the roof. Clip the bolt and move right onto the Arête, CLimb up to the top. A ring bolt awaits.
Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Rail left for 3 m, pull into the bushy crack and up to finish. There is a belay bolt at the top.
