Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
|
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mega super soft
|
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
|
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
|
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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NN1 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
|
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5c | ★★ Lucas - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
|
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6a | ★★ Tierra doy una / Sutra - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
|
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Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- with
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - with LFF | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
|
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Good | |||
5 | ★ Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Average | |||
Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
|
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5c 5b - c | ★★ Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - with Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
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6a | ★ Itchy feet - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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Fri 28th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
||||||
Thu 27th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
|
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Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
||||||
5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - with Sandra †, LFF | ★ Good | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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Tue 25th Feb 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - with LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice tufa fun
|
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 5th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b | ★ Avlentu - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Have to correct myself: purely on the wall without arete goes, and solid 6b seems reasonable.
|
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Weather didn't hold, but overhanging enough to be dry Not that hard if you know the way. And not 6c+ for sure.
|
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Project for tomorrow if the weather holds!
|
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - with Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
Got it! Used a bit the dihedral half a metre to the right in the easier upper part for security reasons (last two bolts are very rusty), but purely on the wall goes quite easily, too. What should I say? For me 6c max, quite reachy however.
|
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6a 6b | ★ Avientu (Avlentu) - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice and very soft for 6b. Maybe defined without the arete? But that would be illogical (and very hard).
|
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6a+ | ★ Koko Beach - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fight, short and intense. Found it quite stiff for the grade.
|
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ La Central - with Sandra † | 14m | ||||
Very warm (up)
|
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | El capitan Memo - with Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
2 really hard moves out of the tufa, easy upper half. Seems pretty soft to me for 7a+, being tall helps for sure.
|
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
6b | ★ Esclavo de Amor - with Sandra † | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not harder than 'El Cielo Puede Esperar'.
|
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6a | ★★ El Cielo Puede Esperar - with Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy move out of the tufa, committing after. Not so easy.
|
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
6a | ★ Makina de discutir - with Sandra † | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty stiff start, upper part needs some gardening - got some blackberry thorns stuck in my nose
|
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - with Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Don't Push the Red Button - with Sandra †, Jarno | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Verano Fukishima - with Sandra †, Jarno | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | ★ El Paso Residual - with Sandra † | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Solved with an over-the-head kneebar / heelhook, which turned the fierce crux almost into a no-hand
|
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6a+ | ★★ El Repris de Rafita - with Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit polished, but nice climb out of the cave
|
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6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - with Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
What a cool place: nice beach, a bar, sunshine and lots of routes to do, what do you want more?
|
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Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Marabio | ||||||
Los Bloques | ||||||
6b | El murin - with Sandra † | 17m | Average | |||
Only toprope due to rusty bolts. Too close to 'La fea' and not an own line.
|
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5+ | ★★ La fea - with Sandra † | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and varied climbing.
|
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5+ | La placa - with Sandra † | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quite cruxy in the middle, upper half very easy.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
|
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4c | ★ Fluffy - with LFF | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
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6b | ★★ Kalki - with Giggler | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
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6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 7th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
|
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5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
|
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Wed 6th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
|
||||||
5b 5a | ★ Fup - with Giggler | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
|
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Mon 4th Mar 2019 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
5b 5a | ★ Comando pastillero - with LFF | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Puig St. Martí | ||||||
6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 26m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
|
||||||
5 3c - 4a | ★ El Niño - with Norima | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue. Not bad, but far too short.
|
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4c | ★★ 100 Duros - with Sandra †, Jarno | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too hot in T-Shirt
|
||||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
Furia Latina | ||||||
6b | ★ La Maldición - with Arvin, Sandra † | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Done with 5 bolts preclipped Interesting lower wall, then some really hard moves over the roof lip.
|
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6a | Siglo XXI - with Arvin, Sandra † | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Very cruxy in the middle, circumvent right (or add two grades)
|
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Sun 3rd Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Callejon | ||||||
6a | ★ Sierra de Guaro - with Arvin, Sandra † | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 3rd Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6b | ★ Knuff - with Arvin, Sandra † | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Nice one, but pretty pumpy
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
Eliminator | ||||||
6a | A fregar - with Sandra †, Arvin | 10m | Average | |||
Polished pump
|
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Sat 26th Aug 2017 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Palomarejas El cielo nocturno | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Gran Wioming - with Sandra †, Arvin | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very technical route, nice one. The maximum possible today, very damp and no wind.
|
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6a+ | ★ El intermedio - with Sandra †, Arvin | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 25th Aug 2017 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Hoz del Mijares Obras Selectas | ||||||
6b | ★★ La Bola de Cristal - with Sandra †, Arvin | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic even though being so short: excellent and variable moves. Not easy however.
|