Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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Fr 16. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mega super soft
|
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
|
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Do 15. Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 Versuche - mit Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
|
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Di 13. Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - mit LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - mit LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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NN1 - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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So 11. Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
|
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5c | ★★ Lucas - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
|
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6a | ★★ Tierno doy una / Sutra - mit Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
|
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Mi 22. Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- mit
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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Mo 20. Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - mit LFF | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
|
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So 19. Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - mit LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - mit LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - mit LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - mit LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 6. Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Gut | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fr 5. Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - mit Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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Mi 3. Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Gut | |||
5 | ★ Curving Groove - mit Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Durchschnitt | |||
Di 2. Nov 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - mit Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
|
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5c 5b - c | ★★ Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - mit Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Durchschnitt | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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So 31. Okt 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - mit Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Gut | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
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6a | ★ Itchy feet - mit Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Gut | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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Fr 28. Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - mit LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Gut | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- mit
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
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Do 27. Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - mit LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
|
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Mi 26. Feb 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas - mit Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
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5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - mit Sandra †, LFF | ★ Gut | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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Di 25. Feb 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - mit Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - mit LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mo 24. Feb 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - mit LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super nice tufa fun
|
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So 23. Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - mit LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - mit Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Do 5. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b | ★ Avlentu - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Have to correct myself: purely on the wall without arete goes, and solid 6b seems reasonable.
|
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Weather didn't hold, but overhanging enough to be dry Not that hard if you know the way. And not 6c+ for sure.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Project for tomorrow if the weather holds!
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
Got it! Used a bit the dihedral half a metre to the right in the easier upper part for security reasons (last two bolts are very rusty), but purely on the wall goes quite easily, too. What should I say? For me 6c max, quite reachy however.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6a 6b | ★ Avientu (Avlentu) - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Nice and very soft for 6b. Maybe defined without the arete? But that would be illogical (and very hard).
|
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6a+ | ★ Koko Beach - mit Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A fight, short and intense. Found it quite stiff for the grade.
|
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Mi 4. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ La Central - mit Sandra † | 14m | ||||
Very warm (up)
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | El capitan Memo - mit Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
2 really hard moves out of the tufa, easy upper half. Seems pretty soft to me for 7a+, being tall helps for sure.
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
6b | ★ Esclavo de Amor - mit Sandra † | 11m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Not harder than 'El Cielo Puede Esperar'.
|
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6a | ★★ El Cielo Puede Esperar - mit Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Reachy move out of the tufa, committing after. Not so easy.
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
6a | ★ Makina de discutir - mit Sandra † | 10m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Pretty stiff start, upper part needs some gardening - got some blackberry thorns stuck in my nose
|
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Di 3. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - mit Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Don't Push the Red Button - mit Sandra †, Jarno | 10m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Verano Fukishima - mit Sandra †, Jarno | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 2. Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | ★ El Paso Residual - mit Sandra † | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Solved with an over-the-head kneebar / heelhook, which turned the fierce crux almost into a no-hand
|
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6a+ | ★★ El Repris de Rafita - mit Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A bit polished, but nice climb out of the cave
|
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6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - mit Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
What a cool place: nice beach, a bar, sunshine and lots of routes to do, what do you want more?
|
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Fr 30. Aug 2019 - Marabio | ||||||
Los Bloques | ||||||
6b | El murin - mit Sandra † | 17m | Durchschnitt | |||
Only toprope due to rusty bolts. Too close to 'La fea' and not an own line.
|
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5+ | ★★ La fea - mit Sandra † | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice and varied climbing.
|
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5+ | La placa - mit Sandra † | 23m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Quite cruxy in the middle, upper half very easy.
|
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Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - mit LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
|
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4c | ★ Fluffy - mit LFF | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 9. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - mit LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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Fr 8. Mär 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - mit Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - mit LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
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6b | ★★ Kalki - mit Giggler | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
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6a | ★★ Touch the sky - mit LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - mit Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Do 7. Mär 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - mit LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - mit LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
|
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5c | ★★ Maria - mit Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - mit LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - mit LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
|
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Mi 6. Mär 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - mit Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - mit LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - mit LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
|
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5b 5a | ★ Fup - mit Giggler | 23m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Di 5. Mär 2019 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - mit Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - mit LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
|
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Mo 4. Mär 2019 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
5b 5a | ★★ Comando pastillero - mit LFF | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 3. Mär 2019 - Puig St. Martí | ||||||
6a | ★ Atila - mit Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - mit LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - mit LFF | 26m, 7 | ★ Gut | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
|
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5 3c - 4a | ★★ El Niño - mit Norima | 8m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Quickdraw rescue. Not bad, but far too short.
|
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4c | ★★ 100 Duros - mit Sandra †, Jarno | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Too hot in T-Shirt
|
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So 3. Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
Furia Latina | ||||||
6b | ★ La Maldición - mit Arvin, Sandra † | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Done with 5 bolts preclipped Interesting lower wall, then some really hard moves over the roof lip.
|
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6a | Siglo XXI - mit Arvin, Sandra † | 10m | Vergiss es | |||
Very cruxy in the middle, circumvent right (or add two grades)
|
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So 3. Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Callejon | ||||||
6a | ★ Sierra de Guaro - mit Arvin, Sandra † | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
So 3. Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
El Camino | ||||||
6b | ★ Knuff - mit Arvin, Sandra † | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd go. Nice one, but pretty pumpy
|
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Sa 2. Sep 2017 - Rodellar | ||||||
Eliminator | ||||||
6a | A fregar - mit Sandra †, Arvin | 10m | Durchschnitt | |||
Polished pump
|
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Sa 26. Aug 2017 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Palomarejas El cielo nocturno | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Gran Wioming - mit Sandra †, Arvin | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very technical route, nice one. The maximum possible today, very damp and no wind.
|
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6a+ | ★ El intermedio - mit Sandra †, Arvin | 11m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 25. Aug 2017 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Hoz del Mijares Obras Selectas | ||||||
6b | ★★ La Bola de Cristal - mit Sandra †, Arvin | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Classic even though being so short: excellent and variable moves. Not easy however.
|