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Ascents in Racó de les Espadelles by Justin Case

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Showing all 6 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Margalef
Racó de les Espadelles
6b Perepunyetes - with Ben Sport 16m Very Good
Bouldery start (more than 6b for sure) leads to pumpy, continuous climbing in a beautiful pocketed face. Ben spent a while here, as did he on the 6a all the way to the left the day before!

 
6c+ Kagaito Sakapoko — 2 attempts - with Ben Sport 20m, 6 Very Good
Great route with polished holds that needs better bolting. I took on the first attempt because the distance from the 2nd to 3rd bolt was significant and not worth the fall. I extended the draws and went 2nd go in a straightforward fashion.

 
Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Margalef
Racó de les Espadelles
7a Reventuning — 2 attempts - with Ben Sport 19m, 7 Very Good
I remain without a 7a onsight in Europe! Fell deadpointing to a good pocket. Got it second go without that many issues- perhaps just a loud grunt or two. Cool climbing on good overhanging pockets through an arete, followed by another overhanging section with precise throws and even a kneescum. Stoked for the first 7a of the trip!

 
6c+ In Extremis — 3 attempts - with Ben Sport 17m, 6 Average
Dafuq. This is a total sandbag! Definitely qualifies for 7a, maybe even low end 7a+ IMO. Bottom boulder is quite physical, followed by pumpy, insecure climbing. There's also large chunks of rock that are dangerously loose to boot. If it were appropriately graded and cleaned, would be a great climb!

 
6b+ Ni pa mi - with Ben Sport 16m Very Good
The confirmation that what they say about Margalef and pockets is no fake news. Stiff for 6b+, but also very nice, continuous movement.

 
6a Per Molts Anys - with Ben Sport 15m Good
First climb in Spain ever! Happy to be in Margalef in good company and mindset. As advertised, lots of pockets! Balancy and technical- quite a bit for only 6a. What a beautiful place

 

Showing all 6 ascents.

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