Ascents in South, middle by Danja Mewes

Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...

Got on this at the end. I have to remember the left crimp pinch to get up to the clip before the crux starts... Also that the first "serious" clip after the Orup start is clipped best from the biggest hold below, rather than continuing to bump the hand up

Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S

Got it! Didn't really top out though. Clipped and stood there with feet below anchor using left side pull... Then tried to top out after to the right to really stand on the ledge and be more above the bolts ... Failed then. But managed my pump well and finally could get into the send mentality again which I'm happy about. Hadn't tried it since last Summer like in June or so

First try in a year. Start was difficult. But top didn't feel as scary as last year

Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet

Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive

Stick clipped all but 3 draws of the first 8. Feels slightly easier than Siddharta but still have many questions

I tried this twice today. It feels much harder than vinna eller försvinna or bad boys, the first 7 bolts only have like 2 possible clips... After bolt 8 it feels much easier and fun, although I couldn't go to the top, spinning bolt. Not sure I want to project this. It seems almost impossible. Maybe it's just the heat?

This took me many many sessions to piece together because of my meniscus tear and not being able to rest with my beta (everyone else has a high knee rest if they want to). When it finally went, it was cooler weather. On the second go I had a new high point, and everything just went well for the 3rd go when I finally stopped stressing

Started this as a project, got on it one time for fun, figured out the first overhang a bit better, then stick clipped the first crux bit to work it. Still need to do the rest of the crux up to the anchors. 7c+ in guidebook and on other sites

Had to try it because Orup was soaked and I wanted my extension draw. Made it halfway bolt to bolt and surprised myself, it felt doable, like when I got on Orup last Summer. Stopped because it rained and I did not want to torment my belayer. I think this will be my next project. Note that this is 7c+ on 27crags and many people consider it a hard 7c+ (?)

100th time I swear trying this (once a week! Not logging them all, I always start with a go the whole way, brush everything), it feels so easy, but still having a balance issue at the veryyy end of the crux. I have low pointed with very little rest, tried so much. just does not fit my body. Finally found a way to fit 4 fingers on a hold I was using 2 on this day though, and now I can balance better. If only I had realized that sooner. I will go back to send when dry and I am sure it will happen.

First times back on since November, and my bad fall then (upside down, slamming into wall). Trying new beta. Some things felt easier, some harder, than before. Right before the big overhang, I'm trying new beta to cut out the move left and go straight up to it. I think I need to get my feet a bit more established. The start of the crux went very smoothly, no issues. At the big pinch, I'm still searching for a right foot (knees don't like the super high foot beta), but I think I found a foot chip that's not as far as the reachy foot chip. The crimps above that went fine, except the more slippery one for the right, which would be nice to skip. Where I took the fall I didn't feel particularly fearful, but I grabbed the QuickDraw to clip. I really need to take some falls there next session. The next part to the anchors felt much less scary than before, and I'm relieved. Next session I will focus on linking the new beta, and taking falls at my fear point (last draw).

The number of attempts this took total over many sessions... was a lot. I learned so much from it though! Excellent route, the lower crux kept causing me to regress a bit in the process, and then there were so many sessions where I fell near the top. This route taught me to climb and to fall and to progress.... and to project!