Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 8th May 2024 - Freienbach | ||||||
7b Hard | Bastard - with Mr C | Average | ||||
Interesting.... Tried till the first bolt a while ago, not being able to find a solution. Today first go basically onsighting the entire thing by just crimping the shit out of everything. Closest I came to falling off was clipping the anchor, not seeing the sidepull jug.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
7c+ Easy | FA ★★★ Happy Feet - with Mr C, Mr M | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.
As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done |
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Trolok | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra P1
- with
Xa4
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★★ Aladaĝlar - with Jascha | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go, but have done the LHV before.
Easier and nicer than the LHV (which was already soft), so probs more like 7b.
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7a+ ~7b | ★ Torpor - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
Climbs better than it looks. For me harder than the new 7bs on the right.
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Cama | ||||||
Laboratorio | ||||||
7b | ★★ Quasar - with Mr C | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not my best climbing performance
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8a | ★★★ Fight - with Mr C | 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bolting is not so great, but the route is fun.
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7a ~6c+ | ★★★ Nuove prospettive - with Mr C | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | ★ Fuga dal minotauro - with Mr C | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Master of disaster - with Mr C | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell when you basically cant fall anymore towards the last draw. But i guess this is how it is with onsighting, just didnt see the foothold around the corner.
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6a | ★★ Amici per la Spazzola - with Mr C | 15m | ★ Good | |||
7b/b+ | ★★ Malbuner - with Mr C | 34m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
With zero chalk on the route, this was quite an onsight fight.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a | ★★ Erebos - with Sara_S | 35m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).
Good addition to the crag. |
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7c | ★★ El Xipiron - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.
Not physically hard, but good body tension is key. |
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8a | ★★ Explosiv - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think this is where my Gäsi-Bingo meets its maker...
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Slot Machine - with Mr C | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz.
Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.
For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-) |
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7c ~7c | FA ★★ Discombobulated - with Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun journey this one.
Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉) Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb. A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans. Grade needs confirmation. |
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ Easy | ★ Kapadokya - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
So the trick is to climb above the anchor....Good climbing but the bottom crux was quite wet.
I hope you are getting a discount on sika Jürgen ;-) |
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Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Galerie | ||||||
Gorubi | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Bella Donna - with Jascha | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really enjoyed this one, even with the occasional wet hold.
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6c+ | ★★ Efeuverschneidung - with Jascha | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More a technical wall climb than a dihedral but good fun!
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Zufolo | ||||||
6b ~6c | ★★ Totentanz - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun with a techy crux.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Unrestricted - with Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
On foot slip in the blazing sun .
Cool Climb
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6a+ | ★★ Moon Child - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ ~6c | ★★★ Nimbus - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun Climbing but the grades are a bit all over the place at this wall....
|
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Underzero | ||||||
7b | ★★ Pistöle - with Mr C | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, just a bit sharp in parts.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Milano Torino - with Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
No clue while this only gets one star in the book. Super fun climbing with quite the unique crux.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6b | ★ Trigonometri - with Manu | 20m | ★ Good | |||
7b+ | ★★ Nessuna illusione - with Manu | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super technical crux. Next time.
|
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7a | ★★ Bricolage - with Manu | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c+ | ★★ Test da Sogno - with Manu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b | ★ Andy Q-λ - with Manu | 35m | ★ Good | |||
New books says 7a+, but 7b seems fair.
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7c+ | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio ext. - with Manu | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More technical than hard.
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6c | ★ Faggio selvaggio - with Manu | 19m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Dracula - with Manu | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super good. Though felt like an oven in the full sun ;-)
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6c+ | ★★ La rivincita degli obesi - with Manu | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Knew the shared start. Rest os
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6c | ★★ Enoma - with Manu | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - The Geisha Walls | ||||||
The Chablis Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Castello di carte | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Killing Batman - with Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio - with Sara_S | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8a+ | ★★ End of comfort - with Sara_S | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun and actually doable. Crimpy technical climbing.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Russo | ||||||
Cabernet Sauvignon | ||||||
7a ~7b | ★★ Piaz Fraz | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tricky smooth undercling layback crack.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Russo | ||||||
Macaco | ||||||
6c | ★★ Per Domani | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b+ | ★★ Scoiattolo volante | 25m | ★ Good | |||
couldnt get out of the roof..
|
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7b | ★★ Camino Cassin | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Fluppi | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mann über Bord - with Gerit, Henri | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to read if it hasnt been climbed for a while, but quite okay once you know where the holds are.
Great route.
|
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7c+ Easy | ★★ China Wall - with Gerit, Henri | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This time as a warm-up, after checking out the moves last time.
3 hard sections interrupted by good rests. The thumb undercling move is quite unique. |
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7c+ Easy | ★★★ Aquaria - with Gerit, Henri | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. Really nice climb, for me a tad easier than China WAll
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ | Wotan - with Jascha | Average | ||||
Couldn't do the dynamic move, so did it statically with a very sharp RH crimp.
The definition of a omw.
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6c+ | ★★ Alkoholfrei - with Jascha | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Strasse | ||||||
7c | ★★ Pocket Universe - with Jascha | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun Route with a boulder start which can be solved in different ways.
Apparently you can also easily fall off the head wall if you mess it up |
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7b+ | ★ Allez! - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
The start is a shorty killer...the rest is fun.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Mindgame | ||||||
8a | ★★ Big Lebowski - with Sara_S | 37m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb. Cruxy lower part and enjoyable second half. hope Ill get back on it soonish.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Fluppi | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7a+ | Chez Hermes - with Ivo, Jascha | 20m | ★ Good | |||
After Ivo and Jascha gave this a solid scrub this was just climbable.
Some cool moves but will always be quite dirty.
Good on Ivo going in this first, making it to the anchor with a solid layer of clay on the holds |
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6c+ |
★ Du zuerst P1
- with
Ivo, Jascha
1
6c+
20
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mostly technical corner climbing.
Thanks Ivo for cleaning and the tick marks!
|
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7a | ★★ Land in Sicht - with Ivo, Jascha | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably the better warm-up
|
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★★ Mr. Dry Hand - with Jascha | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Not harder than Alis Mum.
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7a | ★ AliMamma - with Jascha | 8 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
5c | ★ Kreuzweg - with Jascha | 22m | Average | |||
Trollfels Bingo complete ;-)
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7c+ | ★★★ Desperado - with Jascha | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.
Felt hard today in tropical conditions. |
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Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c | ★★ Skating Fred - with Jascha | 13m | ★ Good | |||
One of the better warm-ups around. Did the start already last time when i did the 7a, rest OS.
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7a+ ~7b+ | Sister Bliss - with Jascha | 18m | Average | |||
Nails getting of the ground, def. harder than 7a+!
|
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7a+ | ★★ Yothu Yindi - with Jascha | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Boulder problem to start and hard to read upper section (jumped for a non-existing hold during onsight ). A lot easier the second time around.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Ellhorn - Fläscherberg | ||||||
Petit Verdon | ||||||
6a |
★★ BFT P2
- with
Manu
2
6a
25m
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★ Pythagoras - with Manu | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didnt really read the description and did this without gear. felt quite runout
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7b+ | ★★★ Axiom - with Manu | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stays in the shade till 13.30
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7b | ★★★ Chef Schimpanse - with Manu | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7c+ ~7c | ★★ Wolfsspur - with Jascha | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7c | ★★ Sadly Bolter - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
Couldnt really solve draw 2-3....
The top is just nice 6b climbing
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7a | SKAramba - with Jascha | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thanks Jascha for the cleaning and the tickmarks =)
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6b+ ~6c+ | Mykines - with Jascha | 15m | Average | |||
Top has some cool holds but bottom half is quite crumbly. Also the start is very hard (for me harder than anything in the 7a we tried later).
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
6b |
★★ Tenzli
- with
Jascha
1
6b
15m
2
6a+
15m
This one feels more like 6b+. Great climbing though, very technical. | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★ Tango - with Jascha | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best or even the best pitch i have done at Gartenalp thus far. So much fun! Was super close on onsight, but missread the crux.
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7a ~6c+ |
★★ Tirami su P1
- with
Jascha
1
7a
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
Okay climb, removed a block from the undercling traverse...
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6c |
★★ Himmelstreppe
- with
Jascha
1
6c
20
2
6c
18
Brilliant pitch, really enjoyed this one. | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic climb, so much fun.
Did as Philip suggested and come down from the 2nd anchor.
Climbed the first pitch so "draw optimised" that I ended up clipping the second anchor with 12draws left on my harness 🥴🥴
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7a+ ~7a+ |
★ Orbit
- with
Jascha
1
7a+
17m
Difficult crux section and last few moves towards the anchor.
2
6c
12m
| 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor A | ||||||
7b/b+ | ★★ Huebere 2. SL - with Mari | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Even at 30+ degree this is at max a very soft 7b. Good fun though all the way.
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5c | ★★ Huebere - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another very nice easy pitch. Must have been a lot of work to clean this route, well worth it.
|
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7a |
★★★ Highflyer
- with
Mari
1
5a
Classic for the grade. A nice 5a bolted for a 5a climber.
2
7a
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor B | ||||||
6b | ★★ Nymphe - with Mari | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b+ | ★★ Salü Jopin - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super close to sending this on the first try...no time for a second try.
Climbs a bit better than Milchstraße although not as consistent. Would Def try again if I come back here. |
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7c | ★★ Milchstrasse - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can see that this was a classic once, about 10k attempts ago....cool moves but just too polished. would not try again.
|
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Duha - with Mari | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.
|
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ausreisser - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★ Seitenblick - with Mari | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Hmm very cruxy and contrived. The best are actually the last 3m to the anchor.
|
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6a+ |
★ Fresco P1
- with
Mari
1
6a+
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Bölli - with Mari | 20m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ ~7a+ | ★ Orbit - with Mari | 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slipped 20cm before the anchor . Good onsight fight and nice route
|
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Too hot to hoot - with Sara_S | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A mini-moonboard problem at 10° overhang =)
|
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★ Bella Donna - with Beatrice | 22m | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived a bit green and a bit scary (some of the holds, you know your finger will stay there if your foot comes off.....). Otherwise some fun moves
|
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Unten | ||||||
7b | ★★ Orakel - with Henri | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb! A bit contrived at the start but other than this really nice.
|
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6c | ★ Blindhammer - with Henri | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite insecure to the second bolt.
|
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7c+ | ★ Caramba - with Henri | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Haha, i still cant do the start, which is a shame as the rest is quite nice.
Best thing i could come up with is some sort of campussing on crimps....but feels like I just havent found the proper beta. |
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c | FA ★★ Rotator - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice technical traverse. The 1FP-undercling match is rad.
|
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
7b | ★ Difficult Game - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing to a very distinct crux with a big deadpoint.
|
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Chemin de la mer - with Henri | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very fun route.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lapin bleu - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★ Lapin vert - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ | ★★ Chemin du ciel - with Henri | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and varied climbing....the gluing job could have been a bit more discrete...
|
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6c | ★★ Mauvaise réputation - with Henri | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
5c+ | ★ Gawain - with Mr C | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Moriskenburg Bingo
|